Phillip Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Older roof. The flashing around the plumbing vents have busted open. Some one comes and cuts the top out of new flashing and slides them down over the old flashing. Click to Enlarge 43.83 KB Click to Enlarge 123.29 KB Click to Enlarge 96.61 KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 At least it wasn't a big goober of roof cement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caryseidner Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 That is almost the exact detail used to wrap 4"-16" vent penetrations on a flat roof, only the rain diverter is metal and caulked in place. I think the neoprene would be more effective, but I've never seen it on a pitched roof. Of course it's not going to do anything to help the rip at the base of the older neoprene flashing shown in your 1st pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Older roof. The flashing around the plumbing vents have busted open. Some one comes and cuts the top out of new flashing and slides them down over the old flashing. Heck, I've done that myself. Of course, I only did it as a temporary measure until the weather cleared up long enough to make a proper repair 10-12 years later. - Jim Katen, Oregon Download Attachment: Befo.JPG 169.02 KB Download Attachment: Afta.JPG 204.98 KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Jim, I have seen them like that and write them up every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caryseidner Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Jim, I have seen them like that and write them up every time. Why? If the top of the boot is the only thing damaged, as in Jim's 1st photo, then a new partial (like the one you found) or full (like the one Jim put on) soil vent flashing will keep the top of the old flashing protected from the elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Fabry Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Jim. the NRCA doesn't endorse California valleys for areas with moderate to heavy rainfall. I'm appalled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Whitmore Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 I have an issue with Jim's type of repair as well[:-paperba My concern is that debris will get caught between the new and old pipe jacks. The end result would be water damming up and leaking in at the torn boot. I know it's a far shot, but still. Plus, show me a credible source, besides Jim of course, showing either repair as acceptable. I'd rather see a new boot pushed down and tarred onto the torn one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 Yeah, water will get under the boot flange. The moisture under there wont dry quickly. It would be a nice moist place to harbor things that are not conducive to long material life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caryseidner Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 I have an issue with Jim's type of repair as well[:-paperba My concern is that debris will get caught between the new and old pipe jacks. The end result would be water damming up and leaking in at the torn boot. I know it's a far shot, but still. Plus, show me a credible source, besides Jim of course, showing either repair as acceptable. I'd rather see a new boot pushed down and tarred onto the torn one. I hear ya Brandon and I guess it's possible that debris would accumulate between the boots, but I wouldn't call it out for that reason. I can't show you a credible source that endorses either repair. The NRCA publishes a flat roof repair manual that quite frankly has some pretty wacky repair methods in it. Stuff like mod bit patches with roofing cement smeared along the perimeters. I don't believe they publish a steep sloped repair manual nor have I ever seen one from the shingle manufacturers so I just have to look at something like this and think like water, and I don't see a leak here. I would avoid letting roof cement and neoprene come in contact with each other. The oils in the cement will breakdown the neoprene. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted April 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 I look at it like this way. The flashing has a proper way to be installed. It is not installed as it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caryseidner Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 As it turns out it looks like it is installed correctly, but I don't think it will protect the rip in the base of your flashing Phil. Rain Collar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Whitmore Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 Cary, Under their submittal sheet, it is listed as a secondary seal, and not a primary seal. It's debatable, but I would have to argue that it is still an improper "repair". I would love to see those used over the main boot for UV protection of the primary seals. The primary seals would then last much longer I would think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erby Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Git Er Done Good Nuff versus Git Er Done Right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomop Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 I would avoid letting roof cement and neoprene come in contact with each other. The oils in the cement will breakdown the neoprene. You are 100% right there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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