Can lights

[Robert Jones]

Does this install look correct to you? I am reading that connectors are ok. Just seems to me like the wires should be located in a connection box. When the insulation is properly distributed, wouldn't those wires become and issue?

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[resqman]

No, that is not OK.

In the first pic, they used electrial tape instead of wire nuts. That is wrong.

In the 2nd and 3rd pics you can see that there is an open junction box with the wires sticking out. The wire connections must be inside the box with a cover.

Wire connections must always be inside a covered juction box. No open wire splices (except low voltage wiring like HVAC thermostat)

[Brandon Whitmore]

Nothing about those pictures is correct. There's wiring issues throughout, along with clearance issues to combustibles.

My recommendation would be to have an electrician replace those non- IC rated fixtures (I'm guessing that some of the stickers will say "warning, do not install combustible materials within 3" blah, blah, blah, but could be wrong) with IC rated ones, air seal everything, re- wire the mess, add insulation , secure the wires, etc.

[Robert Jones]

Thanks Bruce,

I knew the one with electrical tape for sure, but I had read somewhere that the use of "connectors" was ok, so I got a little confused. Here's an example;

http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_ ... d=35720258

[Robert Jones]

Sorry Brandon,

Thanks for your reply as well. I was typing the reply to Bruce when you replied.

[Tom Raymond]

Robert,

Here is your fixture: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none

That is obviously an HGTV'd installation, remodel cans are about the simplest fixtures to install. Personally I think the low voltage cans are a waste of money; line voltage cans are about 1/3 the cost, are available with similar halogen and zenon bulbs that are comparable in cost to the 12v ones, and as an added bonus are dimmable. There are dimmable low voltage units out there but they cost even more and tend to buzz.

Tom

[resqman]

Read the International Residential Code, IRC, instead of DIY stuff from questionable sources. Lots of good information about the way things must be done. Of course for electrical the NEC is a good choice. The IRC electrical section only deals with residential electrical and is basically the NEC condensed.

No open wire splices, ever. All wiring must be inside an approved electrical box with a cover. Boxes contain and limit fire.

The lights in your photos include integrated electrical boxes. The wiring is required to be completely inside the box with the cover attached.

[Billy_Bob]

When you connect two wires together, the connection can come loose and then sparks can fly all over the place! Or connections can be "not so good" and they will heat up and get quite hot.

For that reason, you MUST have all wiring connections inside an enclosed electrical box. This keeps the sparks/heat inside and away from combustible materials. (That is house 120 volt and higher voltage wiring.)

Things like this can happen...

[Jim Katen]

Clearly, the splices in Rob's pictures are supposed to be contained within the boxes that are included with the can lights. I hope everyone understands that now.

It's not quite true, however, that *all* electrical splices have to be contained inside boxes. There are connectors that are UL listed and perfectly acceptable to use with #12 or #14 NM cable and that don't need to be installed inside boxes. In fact, in an existing building, you don't even need to leave them accessible. You can bury them behind wallboard.

They've been around for years, check them out here:

http://www.ampnetconnect.com/documents/ ... 123%5D.pdf

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Chad Fabry]

They've been around for years, check them out here:

http://www.ampnetconnect.com/d...3%5D.pdf

I'm quite excited. By tomorrow I'll have a few of those in stock.

[Jerry Lozier]

Clearly, the splices in Rob's pictures are supposed to be contained within the boxes that are included with the can lights. I hope everyone understands that now.

It's not quite true, however, that *all* electrical splices have to be contained inside boxes. There are connectors that are UL listed and perfectly acceptable to use with #12 or #14 NM cable and that don't need to be installed inside boxes. In fact, in an existing building, you don't even need to leave them accessible. You can bury them behind wallboard.

They've been around for years, check them out here:

http://www.ampnetconnect.com/documents/ ... 123%5D.pdf

- Jim Katen, Oregon

I had never heard of these, and had I seen them exposed in an attic, say attached to a can light, would have called them out....

Thank you Jim, and others. This forum continues to bring forth valuable info. Like someone posted the other day, we should get CE hours. I've learned more since hanging out here than much of very expensive CE that are sanctioned. Maybe comparing apples to oranges but I figured it would cost me at least a couple thousand $$ to attend the ASHI LV, that is a lot of bucks per CE.

Jerry