Steven Hockstein Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 We are performing construction administration on a new home that we designed and today we found that all of the Andersen Windows have been improperly installed. The framer insisted that that is the way they always do it and that they have been trained by Andersen. Apparently, they always do it wrong and he is full of it. After a discussion with our Andersen Rep and the general contractor, the windows are now all being removed and reinstalled because the improper installation voids the warranty. The framer is now going to take three times as long then if he did it right and actually read the directions that come with every window. Andersen has updated their installation requirements and I thought it would be helpful to share this information for those of you that work with clients during new construction. http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/ ... inary=true
kurt Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 I most like the asterisk note on the 2nd page under C-Flashing. "Unit flanges do not take the place of flashing." Very helpful and clear guildeline.
hausdok Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Hi Steve, Can you tell us exactly what they'd done that was wrong and do you know, since they've changed the manual, if this improper technique is the way they've been teaching people to do it? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
Steven Hockstein Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Posted February 26, 2009 Click to Enlarge 96.95 KB Click to Enlarge 82.36 KB Compare this to the installation instructions posted above and you will see what I mean. Apparently, Andersen Windows has had some feedback for leakage in the past (for water infiltration), but the problems were traced to installation defects. Aside from the flashing and wrap mistakes, they were being installed with 8 penny nails. Andersen has tried to make their instructions simple, yet precise. I think even if you can't read, the pictures should show the basics.
kurt Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Yes. Basically, pan (hard or membrane), interior dam, drip cap. The other stuff is important, but if you have a pan w/the interior dam, it'll work. The drip cap makes sure.
hausdok Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Nah, Didn't need the instructions, just the photo to see that it was a sh*t job. I think that a lawyer would pay good money for a list of the houses that this framer has done in the past. [] ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
Darren Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Steve, Your Chatham project? Just a heads up; Pic #2 by, the time the landscaper adds the top soil, you may not have the 8 inches from ground to sheathing.
Steven Hockstein Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Posted February 26, 2009 Steve, Your Chatham project? Just a heads up; Pic #2 by, the time the landscaper adds the top soil, you may not have the 8 inches from ground to sheathing. I don't know what you are talking about [:-taped] [] The grading is temporary. We have an engineered grading plan that has yet to be completed. There is still some soil to be removed from the site.
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