noviceaz Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Leak exterior/interior wall/window For the past 1/2 year, when we have a 'driving' rain (AZ), we had/have a heavy leak on the inside top drywall of window. I had the inspector during the rain already twice to check with an infrared lamp and he could not find the source of the leak, but assured me that it is NOT the roof leaking. Home 10 years old. We caulked hairline cracks with silicon on parapet and exterior wall. For three rains it seemed to be working, but during the last one (driving rain again) it leaked/dripped again, from left corner mainly. I enclose 3 photos and would be grateful if you have an advice how to proceed to solve this problem. Thanks. id="Verdana"> With friendly regards, noviceaz Click to Enlarge 24.8 KB Click to Enlarge 46.04 KB Click to Enlarge 329.79 KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Jones Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 It is quite possible that the window is not properly flashed, or at least that corner is not properly flashed. Is the exterior of the window sealed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Leak exterior/interior wall/window For the past 1/2 year, when we have a 'driving' rain (AZ), we had/have a heavy leak on the inside top drywall of window. I had the inspector during the rain already twice to check with an infrared lamp and he could not find the source of the leak, but assured me that it is NOT the roof leaking. Home 10 years old. We caulked hairline cracks with silicon on parapet and exterior wall. For three rains it seemed to be working, but during the last one (driving rain again) it leaked/dripped again, from left corner mainly. I enclose 3 photos and would be grateful if you have an advice how to proceed to solve this problem. Thanks. id="Verdana"> With friendly regards, noviceaz No mystery there. Your window isn't flashed properly. Sadly, the stucco will have to come off to fix it. - Jim Katen, Oregon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 When re-applying the stucco, have a drip edge installed. This means the head will need to be 'square'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hi, Agree with the need for head flashing but I looked at that stucco parapet and wondered whether the WRB under the stucco wraps up and over that thing or they just went right over the framing with some lath and no WRB. If the WRB didn't go up and over the parapet, that stucco could allow some water into that wall plane beneath the parapet. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noviceaz Posted February 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Originally posted by noviceaz Leak exterior/interior wall/window Thank you all so very much for your WISE opinions/suggestions [:-thumbu] . Now, at least, I know what we will have to to. [:-slaphap To Robert Jones' question, if the window is sealed: Yes, it was carefully sealed with a silicon sealer. Again, thank you. After all this mess is resolved, I will post again with a success story, I hope [] Friendly regards, S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noviceaz Posted February 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Originally posted by hausdok Hi, Dear Mike: I will check on the WRB again. As I recall, I did check on that and we thought that the flashing underneath the stucco of the parapet extends over it onto the roof. But I am not sure if this was done appropriately on the housewall!? So I have to check. Thank you for mentioning it!! Greetings, S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocon Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 It appears that you have a two coat plaster system, (which is a hybrid between three coat plaster and EIFS and typical in your area). My guess would be the scupper is not properly flashed, off the shelf pre formed sheet metal scuppers do not have a long enough tube flange (6" typical)to penetrate a 2x4 wall +1 1/2" of plaster + the 1 1/2" foam detail + 1" of freeboard = 7 1/2". Chances are they had to extend the length of the tube flange, which put a splice in the tube flange behind the foam of the two coat plaster, the lather probably did not detail around the tube flange which allows water into or behind the WRB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Yes. Forget sealant. You want it dry, you're looking at dismantlement, metal flashing through the wall, and reassembly. Water never stops looking for a way in; that's why sealants don't work. You have to work with it, redirect it. That means flashing. Like everyone said. I think it would be a relatively easy job, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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