Phillip Posted July 3, 2011 Report Posted July 3, 2011 There is a few subdivisions built in the 90's that I see them here. After that it seems that not many where installed.
Charlie R Posted July 3, 2011 Report Posted July 3, 2011 Had one yesterday in Columbia Maryland in a 1200 sq ft condo on the third floor of a four story condo building, built in 2005. Used the 50 gallon gas water heater for heat and a Goodman 18,000 BTU A/C for cooling. No problems found. Usually I can find some fungal growth inside the air handler but this one was clean. Click to Enlarge 52.4 KB Click to Enlarge 38.35 KB Click to Enlarge 33.42 KB Click to Enlarge 77.07 KB
mgbinspect Posted July 4, 2011 Report Posted July 4, 2011 Had one yesterday in Columbia Maryland in a 1200 sq ft condo on the third floor of a four story condo building, built in 2005. Used the 50 gallon gas water heater for heat and a Goodman 18,000 BTU A/C for cooling. No problems found. Usually I can find some fungal growth inside the air handler but this one was clean. Click to Enlarge 52.4 KB Click to Enlarge[url=https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum/uploads/charlie%20r 201173151020_DSCN3372.JPG][/url] 38.35 KB Click to Enlarge 33.42 KB Click to Enlarge 77.07 KB Isn't the top picture the AC evaporator coil? The heat exchanger for these systems is typically another coil, which is usually flat across the unit with the distribution pipes from the water heater attached at opposite ends of the coil.
Charlie R Posted July 4, 2011 Report Posted July 4, 2011 Yep, two separate coils, flat coil at the top for heat, with the small circulatory pump. Sorry, didn't take that picture.
eriksenmark Posted October 14, 2011 Report Posted October 14, 2011 Hi All, Just wanted to say I'm sold on hydronic heat because of my experience with the Apollo 5050 dual purpose hot water heater. I handle maintenance for a 51 unit apartment. We have a tank in every unit hooked to baseboard radiant heater unit in a single loop approx. 200LF long (including where it goes under and back up out of the floor). We don't have expansion tanks hooked up to them. If it was built today they would be required. We just have Taco 007 circ. pumps, tempering valves and one dan foss style valve (mechanical radiator valves) in the living rooms. Cons: Since its one zone the bedroom the loop starts in gets warmer than the bedroom the loop ends in before returning to the tank. All the apts. are about 800SF Two bedroom units. If you open and close the door alot (i.e. children) and its below freezing outside they have a hard time keeping a steady temperature. Pros: Low Gas consumption, Low maintenance. keep steady temperature (unless you have children). The most common problem I encounter are the replaceable circ. pump cartridges freeze up over the warm months but often you can take them out and spin the impeller by hand and bingo! you're in business again (sometimes this doesn't work, a 50/50 chance). The pump motors can go out. Pipe leaks happen but I cant blame the tank for that. Nearly all are 20+ years old. I've had to replace three in the past 10 Years due to tank failure. Calcium build up is a problem on the tempering valves and Radiator valves. They can be cleaned in a acid bath, replace o-rings, etc. All-n-all I'd install one in my house with the exception being I'd use in floor heat instead of baseboard. Cooling is the problem. We just have 12K Btu thru-wall A/C units. Ouch on the electric bill in the summer. So if you're just looking for heat Hydronic is definitely the way to go in my opinion. Mark in Northwest Ohio
hyblox Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 My daughter has an Apollo Hydroheat system and has been told she needs to replace her hot water heater. The only thing that is wrong with the system is the motor on top of the hot water heater is running continuously. After reading this forum, I question this recommendation. I plan on checking out if the service people who have been out are versed in hydroheat systems. The hot water heater is not leaking, there is hot water and the house is still getting heat. Can anyone tell me what would cause the motor to be running? What should I be checking for? Thanks!
Jim Katen Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 My daughter has an Apollo Hydroheat system and has been told she needs to replace her hot water heater. The only thing that is wrong with the system is the motor on top of the hot water heater is running continuously. After reading this forum, I question this recommendation. I plan on checking out if the service people who have been out are versed in hydroheat systems. The hot water heater is not leaking, there is hot water and the house is still getting heat. Can anyone tell me what would cause the motor to be running? What should I be checking for? Thanks! In an Apollo system, there isn't usually a motor on the top of the water heater. There's a "pump" in the air handler. If that's the thing that's running all the time, then the relay is probably sticking. I'm not sure where it's located on your daughter's system. Just follow the wires from the pump backwards until you get to the relay. Then whack it - gently, but firmly - with the handle of a screwdriver. If that works, get someone to replace the relay. (Althought sometimes you can just clean the contacts.) Alternatively, it's possible that she has a direct vent water heater and you're talking about the power vent motor that sits on the top of the water heater. If that's running continuously, the problem might be more complicated. I believe those are controlled by a relay as well, but there are also several sensors that might issue a "run" command. For that, you want someone familiar with direct vent water heater troubleshooting.
williewilkens Posted November 27, 2011 Report Posted November 27, 2011 Hi all...great info on the Apollo units, but I must admit, not very encouraging for my situation. We are in the process of purchasing a foreclosure property, which has two hydronic heat units attached. One is an Apollo, the other is a First Co model HWF 32-3. Both coil units are damaged from freezing, due to the timing of the previous owner leaving, and the bank taking over the property. Bottom line is that the system wasn't winterized until after it froze (we are in Flagstaff, AZ btw). I believe I can track down a replacement coil from First Co (with a 3-4 week build time, as it is a discontinued model), but I don't know what to do with the Apollo unit. This property is basically two separate houses that are joined by a large atrium. The heating system in one house is a standard forced air furnace, but the water for both houses is tied into the hydronic system. So while we would have heat in the one side, there would be no water until the coil units are replaced. From reading this post, I get the idea that replacing the entire system might be the way to go...and if that is the case, I believe walking away from this property might also be the wisest move. Please let me know if you have any ideas as to the repair of the Apollo unit, or an opinion of this situation as a whole... Thanks in advance for your help! This property is
Jim Katen Posted November 27, 2011 Report Posted November 27, 2011 . . . Please let me know if you have any ideas as to the repair of the Apollo unit, or an opinion of this situation as a whole... Have you asked First Co if they can also make a replacement for the Apollo coil? If not, also try calling State, they might be able to as well. Has any of the potable water piping been damaged?
clubnev Posted November 30, 2011 Report Posted November 30, 2011 I don't know if this will help but to make a long story short, a local AC company told me I needed my 22 year old system replaced at a cost of around $6500. This company tried to tell me my coil was obsolete, that I would need new freon lines, yada, yada, yada. Oh, and of course, a new water heater. When they refused to give me an estimate, I started getting suspicious. To make a long story short, I ended up consulting with a plumber and a heating company that fixes these systems. I ended up paying around $750 for a new pump about 8 months ago. No problems so far. This is the only major expense I've had in 22 years. Can't complain. The name of the company that fixed it is Arpi Mechanical in Chatsworth, CA. If you google them, you'll get their info. Maybe they can help or give you some advice.
DTN Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 We have worked on lots of these in Vancouver WA. Many have developed leaks and we had to replace them.
sfisher Posted June 19, 2012 Report Posted June 19, 2012 I live in South Carolina and have a 2000sqft house wirh 2 apollo hydro heat systems model cbc 8, My hot water heater was a Bradford White 75 Gallon, 75,000 btu lp gas. My hot water heater just busted and was wandering if I can buy a smaller wter heater say maybe a 50 gallon tank. Because the price of a 75 gallon is at least $1000. What would you suggest I buy. Thanks
Jim Katen Posted June 19, 2012 Report Posted June 19, 2012 I live in South Carolina and have a 2000sqft house wirh 2 apollo hydro heat systems model cbc 8, My hot water heater was a Bradford White 75 Gallon, 75,000 btu lp gas. My hot water heater just busted and was wandering if I can buy a smaller wter heater say maybe a 50 gallon tank. Because the price of a 75 gallon is at least $1000. What would you suggest I buy. Thanks I'd suggest you buy another 75,000 btu/hr water heater. The 50-gallon one (probably about 40,000 btu/hr) will be too small. Try both Bradford White and State. They both make good units that will work for your application.
Brandon Whitmore Posted June 19, 2012 Report Posted June 19, 2012 I did just see a 40 gal. water heater w/ a 75,000 btu burner the other day. I'm not sure how much storage is required for the heaters though.......
Marc Posted June 19, 2012 Report Posted June 19, 2012 This isn't really my department but what about an LP tankless unit? One that's intended for applications involving hot-water heat exchangers for heating the house? There's not only an efficiency motive here but an economic one also. Marc
Tom Raymond Posted June 19, 2012 Report Posted June 19, 2012 Tankless units are all about capacity. If he can find one that will meet his heat and domestic demands simultaneously it won't be economical. Rinnai makes a 180K BTU unit that will make 7.5 GPM for just under a grand. That's big enough, as long as he won't need to shower between Thanksgiving and Easter. Stick with the replacement tank that matches the specs of the original.
hausdok Posted June 19, 2012 Report Posted June 19, 2012 Check into Rheem and A.O. Smith. Both have developed new high performance 50 gallon tank type water heaters that are supposed to be energy efficient and allegedly can provide the same service that a 70 gallon tank can for less fuel cost. If their claims are true, the cost to install would be paid back long before they need to be replaced. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
jmk Posted June 25, 2012 Report Posted June 25, 2012 I have an Apollo Hydro Heat system in my condo. It's...um... interesting. There are up and down sides. Pros: It's cheaper to run. The air doesn't get as dry in winter/no need for a humidifier. It's an even, comfortable heat. It's quiet. I only have fire going to the water heater, rather than to a furnace as well, which is nice in a small space. It's rather an efficient system over all. When I spoke to the manufacture the last time I had to get a replacement part, they were really friendly and helpful. Cons: It's a PITA (pain in the @ss) because it's 18 years old and every part needs to be replaced one by one. I've replaced the pump, the heating coil, the water heater, the AC drip pan has a leak and is PART of the AC cooling coil.... You will not have enough hot water for a hot shower in the winter if your heat is on. I have a 50gallon hot water heater. (The trick is to turn off your heat for 5minutes, take a shower, and then put the heat back on.) Water pipes leak eventually and if you don't have everything -- and I mean EVERYTHING, even the air handler -- panned and to a drain, you will be replacing your floor eventually. If you eventually want to go to a "normal" furnace, you'll need to replace both the heating and AC system and you'll need additional duct work, etc. for the furnace. Getting replacement parts is a challenge. If I go to their www.apollohydroheat.com website I don't even get their site anymore. They don't make the same units anymore. This could be an issue as my AC has a freon leak. Does it work? Yes, when it's working, it works well. Would I put a new one in? Probably not. You need a licensed plumber who really knows what he's doing to keep it to code any time you replace something. (Be sure there's a double check valve and an expansion tank!) Would I rip one out that's working and replace it? No How long do they last? Well, my building was built in 1994. I have replaced every part of it except the fan (knock on wood) and now need to replace the AC. I'd say from the 15yr to the 18yr mark you will be replacing things one-by-one. That's what makes it a PITA. It's still cheaper than pulling it all out and putting something new in. Does the water heater last as long? Yes, I noticed no issue with the water heater other than normal aging. Do you need a special water heater when it goes out? No, but you DO need to have a licensed plumber that will research the state codes on this and follow them to the letter. Don't assume what's there now is up to code. I know more about IL state plumbing code now than I ever thought I would.....
hausdok Posted June 25, 2012 Report Posted June 25, 2012 Hi, Eighteen years? I would have thought that about fiften years was the maximum one would expect from one of these units. They are not, after all, cast iron boilers. Old stuff wears out. Sometimes it's better to just bite the bullet and replace the entire thing at once instead of suffering a death of a thousand cuts by trying to keep it running and replacing on thing after the other after the other after........... ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
ksburton Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 Hi All ~ Let me echo the thanks others have expressed -- this site is the ONLY comprehensive place I've seen to learn about these Apollo systems. I'm a single lady in a jam: 2 months ago, began renting a nice condo. Now its Apollo air handler's dripping like crazy (it's probably about 10 yrs old), with water seeping along the floor from the hall closet where it's installed to the edge of an adjacent CARPETED area. Neither owner nor realty co. are in any hurry to fix (read: realty co. says it's owner's issue -- owner says can send a relative of his by in about a MONTH to check it out...) I'm worried there's going to be a terrible mold issue (if there isn't already, with that carpet) if I don't do ANYTHING while they play chicken about who's paying for this up-front. I'd really just like to do some basic troubleshooting before spending any more $$$ (and maybe legal fight later) than I have to... It's a vertical upflow hydroheat unit. I'd like to be sure I've found all the filters to change, maybe try flushing the drain/condensate line to remove blockage/algae if I can -- BUT I can't tell what/where everything is : ( I've untaped the panels, but can't see if there's a drain pan -- not sure what pipes are what (the installation looks, to me, LITERALLY twisted) and am not sure what to do next. I've got some no-rinse coil cleaner, heavy-duty rubber gloves, a face mask, a wet-dry vac, basic tools, and I'm not afraid of getting dirty... There's a green flat cap (about 4" wide) in the ground outside by my compressor. Is that where my drain line comes out?? (Sorry if this is all stupid sounding -- I'm on my own here, just really don't want to mess anything up.) Looking at 100 degrees in NC this weekend, and trying not to run the AC so there's less leaking. Any advice, much appreciated! Thanks, Kim
Marc Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 Try to determine if the primary condensate pan is full of water. If it is then the condensate drain line is likely clogged somewhere. It's a common problem. Lots of servicemen will blow it out, some with just their lung power, then bill you. I've always changed it. Try to catch the dripping with a bucket until the problem can be fixed. Keep the floor/carpet dry. Marc
Jim Katen Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 Kim, Post some pictures and we'll try to help. However, honestly, your best course of action is to hire a decent HVAC tech to fix the problem.
onechosen1 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Posted July 4, 2012 Hello...I just moved into a condo that was constructed in early 2006. It has an Apollo Hydronic system. My issue is that there is an exhaust fan sitting atop the HW tank (I am told to draw excess heat off the tank per the HOA manager) that comes on for maybe 90 seconds every hour or so. It creates a loud turbine sound in the HW tank closet next to a bedroom. I intend to attach maybe 8 to 10 feet of 4 inch flex line to the air intake to muffle it down (hopefully that is okay), but it exhausts right over the window of another bedroom...fairly loudly. I assume this fan is necessary? And from what I read here, to replace this system one day would require not just $$, but a change of ducting etc? I have attached a photo. Thanks for any insight. Tim Click to Enlarge 49.74 KB
rkenney Posted July 4, 2012 Report Posted July 4, 2012 Chances are the fan itself is bad. It should be very quite while operating. I don't know what a "turbine" sound might mean to you, but if it is what I would call a rotating noise,perhaps a high pitch screeching the impeller is most likely hitting the case as it operates. While it is operating put your finger lightly on various places around the motor mounting screws or case. Do you feel a vibration in your finger. Replace the draft fan assembly.
onechosen1 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks for the reply. The fan is not screeching; I have put my hand on it when it is running and do not feel and bad vibration either. The air intake is only 3-4 inches long and opens to the back of the closet...so the turbine sound appears to be coming from the fan simply drawing air at high speed (I can muffle it with my hand by closing it slightly). That is why I think I can muffle it in the closet by attaching a good length of 4 inch wide hose running into the bottom of the closet. But I cannot do the same for the exhaust end, though the long intake draw may tend to quiet it some as well. What is this fan for? Bleeding off excess heat? A normal HW tank does not have such a fan.
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