Suretest - again

[kurt]

Originally posted by crusty

For me the key is to use the hammer judiciously. When I find a drop over 8% I dig a little further. Often I am able to quickly isolate the loose connection in the manner Scott mentioned. Often it's a telltale sign about solid aluminum wiring connectivity. Sometime it's a loose connection at the circuit breaker, a very common occurrance where FPE Stab Lok panels are concerned. All in all a great tool IMO.

I believe if we were to dig into the NEC a little we would specifically find that it prohibits the use of dmaged wire as well as loose potentially arcing connections.

Judicious is a good word.

If I was working a Stab Lok panel, I'd be inclined to pay attention to VD. If the house had aluminum wiring, I wouldn't bother, as I would be recommending that every connection be inspected and repaired (or, the house rewired).

This falls into my dream that my home inspections can be $4000, take 3 days, & every possibility is run down. Unfortuneately, I have to prioritize my inspections, & VD just doesn't get into the scale.

[crusty]

Nice thorough comment Jim but in my opinion you are missing any reference to the prime reason that I even pay attention to voltage drop.

It can be an indicator of a potential latent fire hazard due to arcing from loose connections or damaged conductors. And like others mentioned during further evaluation the Suretest can determine if this is the case and narrow down the search to one potential connection or run of wire.

For me voltage drop is just another clue that I assemble in evaluating a property, just like a stain bleeding through the new paint on the ceiling which may be an indicator of a roof leak and require further evaluation, whether it's me taking a closer look in the attic and on the roof surface or deferring the issue as appropriate. In the case of voltage drop, I rarely go beyond identifying the problem and deferring for further evaluation although I typically check 2-3 outlets per room as standard protocol and sometimes pinpoint the location of the problem by accident so to speak.

If it weren't for the fire safety issue I wouldn't even bother to look at the voltage drop, but would still use the Suretest because it is one of the few testers that I am a ware of which will detect false or bootleg grounding.

Kurt, I treat Al wiring the same but I generally remove one device to see if it has been retrofit. High voltage drops noted using the Suretest save me the trouble. When you get your prices up to $4K let me know and I will relocate and carry your tool bag for you []

[Jaykline]

If I measure it and mention it, I'd like to be able to tell my clients WHY voltage drop is an issue they need to be concerned about. And why they should be willing to pay to consult with a licensed electrician about finding a remedy.

I made the trip to "big d" [:-cowboy] - and bought a suretest. Hopefully, I will learn to use it wisely. This discussion has helped me a lot. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, experience, and philosophy. I appreciate it.

[Jerry Simon]

A bit off topic, and think this was talked about before, but my first Sure-Test acted erratically....had to push buttoms a lot of times before it responded, didn't turn on each and every time, etc. If yours is doing the same, Sure-Test sent me a new one, right away, no problemo at all. A good company in my opinion. Just found a bootleg ground with it the other day in a "totally re-wired home"...nope, still active Knob & Tube in the wall. Why I waited ten years to buy one just shows how stupid I can be.

[kurt]

Originally posted by Jerry Simon, in part:

Why I waited ten years to buy one just shows how stupid I can be.

[:-eyebrows][:-idea] I know the feeling; it seems to be a component of the home inspection experience.