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Posted

Not much. The vent pipe is probably short by one requirement or another, but that is the kind of pipe flashing used on metal roofs. I don't care for 'em, but that's what they use.

Unless the appliance the vent pipe serves is pretty close by, I wouldn't be very concerned about the rubber flashing either. I've had one that way for 8 years now (my gas furnace is in the attic). The vent pipe is a good 10 feet or more long, and I've never found the vent pipe to be above warm more than 5 feet from the unit. If you use the normal metal flashing you have to caulk the hell of it to keep it from leaking, so what's the real difference?

Brian G.

Other Are Sure to Differ [8]

Posted

Up to 6:12 it has to be a minimum of 1ft. long as long as there aren't any vertical obstructions within 8ft. It looks like it's just about a foot to me, so I wouldn't have called it either. I agree with Brian about the bib flashing.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

Posted

I have been told by some roofers that I know that the reddish looking flashing is made for vents like this. The other color flashing is not to be used on gas vents.

I was wondering if anyone had heard this. I haven't check to make sure yet.

Posted

That is the proper flashing for that type of pipe and that type of roof. Im not sure of height requirements. I do know that the pipe should have been moved to the center of the panel. No penetrations are allowed to penetrate or go over seams. And it probably should be clamped at the top.

Posted

Is there any issue wrt the fact that the collar is not on a plane? That 90 degree bump looks flakey to me and I can't tell from the picture how the boot is positioned at the 90 degree.

Posted

Hi Gary,

I've seen a number of those and, FWIW, though I agree it wouldn't have killed them to have adjusted the vent over a few inches before cutting that hole, I doubt that it will leak. None of the one's that I saw were leaking and some looked like they were as old as dirt (just slightly older than me and slightly younger than Les).

That metal retaining ring used to secure the bottom of the flange is pretty soft and maleable. It's pretty easy to bend it to fit the pattern of the roof exactly.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

Posted

Can someone point me to a link where I can find that style of boot/ flashing. I spent some time searching and came up empty. Also, any good link's to standing seam metal roof installation's would be great. I found a couple, but they were not very informative.

Posted
Originally posted by BornaRoofer

All I know is if theres a warranty its voided by installing penetrations in the seams. And right on the back side where the seam and boot come together at the 90 it already looks open.

That makes sense. It just didn't look right (pun). [;)]

EXCEPT, this picture is on the website I give in the following post!

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Posted
Originally posted by Brandon Whitmore

Can someone point me to a link where I can find that style of boot/ flashing. I spent some time searching and came up empty. Also, any good link's to standing seam metal roof installation's would be great. I found a couple, but they were not very informative.

Go HERE for the boot.

Go to the TIJ home page. Type in "standing seam" (in the search window) and you will find a whole thread on, well, you know.

Posted

Well on that boot site every photo the pipes are in the seams. I know for a fact that any weather tight warranty on a metal roof does not allow penetrations in the seams. You have to build curbs or crickets if the penetration has to fall in the seam. Its usually easier to just move the pipe.

I also don't see any warranty given by the boot manufacture.

Posted

Chris,

What you say makes sense. I don't know how the collars are fastened. Need more info to get this straight in my head.

"Common sense" has bitten me more than once here. [:-party]

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Originally posted by BornaRoofer

Well on that boot site every photo the pipes are in the seams. I know for a fact that any weather tight warranty on a metal roof does not allow penetrations in the seams. You have to build curbs or crickets if the penetration has to fall in the seam. Its usually easier to just move the pipe.

I also don't see any warranty given by the boot manufacture.

I'm no expert on this kind of roofing at all but, from what I can see the boot is not on a seam but on a rib... Single panels have several ribs, I would define a seam as where two panels join. But then again I could be wrong.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It may be a rib and not a seam but why would there be fasteners in a rib? It looks like a fastener to the right of the boot on top of the seam/rib.

Either way it would be better if it was on the flat of the panel. Id have moved it prior to installing the panel.

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