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Posted

In these parts, the sheathing ends flush to the rafter tails / fascia.

Because of our trees, gutters get filled often. Even when the sheathing is flush, it can still soak the edge of the OSB and rot it.

Metal drip edge is best but rarely done, even on high-end stuff.

Posted

I was going to say you shouldn't be able to tell because there should be metal drip edge covering the sheathing edge.

Drip edge isn't required. It's just really good to have. It's unfortunate it's been eliminated on most roofs, because it's very cheap and the installation only adds a few minutes to the job.

Posted

flush

yes.

standard of care in Michigan.

Here, lack of metal edge indicates cheap = poor installation.

that said, it is not "required" by code, but highly recommended by most AHJ's.

Posted

For asphalt shingle roofs, drip edge flashing at the eaves and gables (rakes) is required in the building code (IBC) but not in the residential code (IRC). Most shingle manufacturer installation instructions recommend it but do not require it. On a house, roofers building to "code minimum" do not install it, while roofers using "best practices" install it. Or as Les said "lack of metal edge indicates cheap = poor installation". It's a signal to keep my eyes open because I'm likely to find problems elsewhere on the roof -- especially at places where flashing is required.

The purpose of drip edge is to provide edge support to the shingles that overhang the eaves and rake, and to protect the edge of the roof decking and fascia from moisture damage. If it is missing, I look for damage to the shingles at the overhang and damage to the decking and fascia. In my report, I just state that drip edge is not present, explain its purpose, and report whether or not I found damage. If I find damage I tell them the damage needs to be fixed.

Posted

I've written till I'm blue in the face about drip edging. If you want my point of view, do a word search for "drip" in the roofing forum and you'll have it.

OT - OF!!!

M.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Normally drip edge is installed when the roof shingles are being replaced and it's tacked on before the shingles are put on.

How difficult is it to install drip edge after the shingles are already on? What would be the procedure?

Posted

The toughest part will be to fasten the dripedge in place. If the shingles are pretty new, you can bend the shingles up without causing damage during warmer weather, and just slide the eave dripedge into place. As far as fastening goes, I would probably get some self tapping screws and try to secure the flashing on the exposed face. The rake edge will not be so easy because of the location of fasteners-- good luck on that one.

Disclaimer: I have never installed dripedge flashing after the fact.

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