next job

[John Dirks Jr]

My next job is on one of these.

I am not sure which exact style but it is new construction. Other than the usual things, are there any areas I should pay particular attention to? This will be my first inspection on a new home.

[randynavarro]

Good to hear you're getting some jobs, John!

If its a townhouse, is there an Association? Do you have a different contract and scope of work for a multi-family building?

SFD - inspect everyting

Multi-Family - just the walls surfaces inward

[kurt]

New construction?

Look for leaks. All the hyper critical stuff is always about the water.

After that, make sure there's good air flow to all the rooms, and that there's air returns at every level, preferrably every room. A lot of those vertically oriented townhomes have a hard time cooling the top floors in summer and heating the lower floors in winter.

[John Dirks Jr]

....leaks...check.....

....airflow and returns on all floors....check....

What about weep holes in the masonry? I see those missing on many houses I look at. Should I call a lack of weep holes if they're missing?

I dont know about the community association arrangement. I quoted a price for a full inspection. A full inspection to NAHI SOP at minimum is what I will be doing.

[kurt]

Yes. Flashing, wicks, weepholes, etc.....

It's kinda hard to tell folks everything to look for, so I just gave some general ideas about leaks and air flow because I see a lot of townhome developments w/leaks and lousy air flow problems.

[John Dirks Jr]

On the subject of weep holes, I did a google search and found this interesting article.

http://www.bakersfield.com/921/story/202657.html

It suggests that lack of weep holes is not always a problem depending on how the construction method was approached. Read the article and tell me what you think.

[inspector57]

I don't know about the community association arrangement. I quoted a price for a full inspection. A full inspection to NAHI SOP at minimum is what I will be doing.

Do as complete an inspection as you can, but let the home buyer know that most of the time, (insert I am not a lawyer or a realtor - ask them- speech here) the HOA, Condo board, etc. will be responsible for the exterior and common areas to varying degrees. As such, the buyer will have little control or responsibility concerning these areas, BUT they need to be informed of roofs, etc. that are in poor condition that may require a large expenditure in the future. They need to research to make sure that the cash on hand is sufficient to cover anticipated repairs.

Look at the overall condition of the property, some are well maintained and some look like they are flat broke and any repair cost will be passed on to the members in the form of higher fees.

[inspector57]

My opinion on weeps is that they are required and have been for years and it is the result of poor workmanship to leave them out.

Can you get by without them? Maybe.

Probably 95% or more of all breakers never trip as the result of an overload when in service.

Will you do more harm than good trying to install weep holes after the fact? Most likely.

Do you feel lucky enough to do without them? Not on a bet.

Am I going to stick my neck out and say they are not really needed? No

[hausdok]

Hi,

I'd ignore that article and use the information on the BIA site. That guy is a pundit. Google him and then read some of his past articles and you'll find that he's also a purveyor of folklore. I might be wrong, but lots of it seems designed to make consumers think he's some kind of home maintenance god while at the same time making the real estate folks reading the articles say to themselves, "Hmm, cool, this guy knows how to present stuff to buyers in a way that won't kill my deal; think I'll give him a call." Now, mind you, though it's not the way I'd answer such a question, there's nothing wrong with that, as long as any inspection he does isn't minimized for the sake of future referrals. However, his articles do sort of come off that way to this inspector.

Think of the BIA folks as the neurosurgeons of brickwork, and Mr. Barnett as the Physicians Assistant working under the family practice doctor at the local med clinic. If you want brain surgery, who are you going to call for advice?

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[kurt]

Originally posted by AHI

Read the article and tell me what you think.

Dwight says all sorts of stuff. The fact that he's been doing the gig for 45 years is used too often as "proof" he knows what he's talking about. That's a problem, IMHO. He's not too far off in this article, but I don't think he's too far "on" either.

There is a substantial amount of evidence that the lack of flashing, wicks, and weepholes can cause horrible water entry problems in new construction. One cannot retrofit flashing into a building without very major expense. It can be a HUGE problem.

Or not.

Depending on the age of the building, and the specific composition of the mortar used in the construction, there may not be any need for flashings whatsoever.

Since this is new construction, there'd damn well better be through wall flashings above and below all windows and doors, and where the brick bears on the foundation. You should be able to see the flashing; holding it shy of the brick face will retain water in the wall.

Check to see if there's flashings under doors, especially sliding doors. I see rotten walls all the time; the rot is caused by the omission of flashing under the door.

[Erby]

Proper weep holes are not present in the brick veneer. Flashing is supposed to be installed behind the brick to direct water to the weep holes. I can't tell if flashing has been installed in the required areas behind the brick veneer.

Even though some local jurisdictions require it, I seldom see proper weep holes in brick veneer in recent construction in this area. For more information on brick systems on the internet see the Brick Industry Association website: http://www.bia.org/html/frmset_thnt.htm

Look at Technical Note #7 for weephole information.

Water does get behind brick veneer. It needs a way out so it doesn't sit in the wall rotting the structural wood until it evaporates.

Weep holes are openings in the brick mortar that provide drainage for water formed by vapor that has penetrated into the space between the brick and the wall sheathing. When installed, these are combined with flashing (a piece of sheet metal or other similar water resistant material) between the sheathing and bricks which lead the collected moisture out the weep holes. There is no way to see into this space behind the brick without removing brick or opening the interior wall. Making a determination about moisture issues inside the wall is beyond the scope of this inspection.

The Brick Industry Association (the people who make the brick and design installation requirements for it) recommend "weep holes should be located above all doors and windows, below all window sills, and above the ground at the base of the wall."

Generally accepted nationwide building practices also call for proper weep holes in brick construction. However, local generally accepted building practices usually lag behind nationally accepted practices and may not require weep holes.

Walls may be retrofitted with weep holes but without flashing to direct the water to the weep holes, retrofitting may be useless.

You may also want to review the following resources about the need for flashing and weep holes in brick walls.

a. The Brick Industry Association web site at www.bia.org.

b. An article on The Journal of Light Construction web site www.jlconline.com.

The article is: Keeping water out of brick veneer, by Jerry Carrier. Great

explanations, great pictures. Costs $5 to download if you're not a member.

c. The Building Science Corporation web site at

www.buildingscience.com/resources/walls ... _brick.htm

d. Construction books at your local library.

I recommend three courses of action:

1. Review the above resources to educate yourself about the need for brick

weep holes and flashing.

2. Consult the local building inspector's office for local requirements.

3. Contact some knowledgeable qualified brick or masonry contractors to

determine repair methods, estimate costs, and perform the necessary repairs.

[Bill Kibbel]

Originally posted by kurt

Originally posted by AHI

Read the article and tell me what you think.

Dwight says all sorts of stuff.

Like "Dwight Barnett is a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors".

Could he be trying to make it seem like CMI is a designation from something that might look respectable or did ASHI create yet another membership level?

[hausdok]

Hi Bill,

I think he's from the ASHI Great Lakes chapter. I heard years ago that they have had a certified master inspector program in place, complete with peer review, for decades.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[Bill Kibbel]

Originally posted by AHI

Other than the usual things, are there any areas I should pay particular attention to?

For that builder around here there are a couple specific areas of concern:

• I-joist installation errors
• Vent collar flanges and other wrong flashing details
• Deck attachments/flashing
• furnace installation not per manufacturers instructions
• incomplete insulation
• open K/Os in panel & double/tripled neutrals

[kurt]

Basically, yes. I forget what the GLC designation thing is, but I think it's certified master inspector.

Personally, I find those monikers embarassing.

I finally looked at the link for the property....

If there's rowlock sills (brick window sills), look for flashing. Rowlocks can be a problem if they don't drain.

If it's those goofy palladium (arched) windows, there's no good way to get flashing over them. You'll have to look and see what they have, if anything.

Look for open or gapped head joints. When there's problems w/brick, it always seems to include open head joints. Do NOT underestimate the problems stemming from open head joints.

[John Dirks Jr]

I found this article on inspecting brick veneer. Its got some great diagrams.

http://masonpro.com/EnglishGuide.pdf

IRC says this:

R703.7.6 Weepholes.

Weepholes shall be provided in the outside wythe of masonry walls at a maximum spacing of 33 inches (838 mm) on center. Weepholes shall not be less than 3/16 inch (5 mm) in diameter. Weepholes shall be located immediately above the flashing.

I just can't believe that almost every brick veneer exterior I see around here does not have weep holes. My day job has me walking up on other peoples property every day. I can think of 1 in 100 maybe.

[Jim Katen]

Originally posted by AHI

. . . I just can't believe that almost every brick veneer exterior I see around here does not have weep holes. My day job has me walking up on other peoples property every day. I can think of 1 in 100 maybe.

It ain't about the weepholes. It's about the flashing.

Weepholes serve no purpose without flashing.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[John Dirks Jr]

I see weep holes and open head joints but the flashing does not extend beyond the face as it should. No way to tell if the flashing is even there.

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[Jim Katen]

Originally posted by AHI

I see weep holes and open head joints but the flashing does not extend beyond the face as it should. No way to tell if the flashing is even there.

The flashing is required to extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. If you're not sure, insert a small probe (thin knife, ice pick, car key, etc) into the weep hole and gently drag it along the bottom. You should be able to feel whether or not your dragging on flashing or on brick. I can sometimes feel the flashing and the spot where it ends.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Brandon Whitmore]

The flashing is required to extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish. If you're not sure, insert a small probe (thin knife, ice pick, car key, etc) into the weep hole and gently drag it along the bottom. You should be able to feel whether or not your dragging on flashing or on brick. I can sometimes feel the flashing and the spot where it ends.

Just don't push too hard-- membrane type flashings may get damaged.

[John Dirks Jr]

Questions for those of you that have done many inspections.

What percent of brick veneer exteriors that you have inspected had problems with flashings, weeps, and wicks?

Do you see a higher problem percentage in older or newer construction?

[Chad Fabry]

What percentage?

Hmmm...

.05% would be a safe and conservative estimation.

edit: Crap. I misread the question. The real answer is 99.95 %

[Phillip]

Originally posted by AHI

Questions for those of you that have done many inspections.

What percent of brick veneer exteriors that you have inspected had problems with flashings, weeps, and wicks?

Do you see a higher problem percentage in older or newer construction?

99.9% that is if you are counting the lack of flashings, weeps, and wicks as the problem.