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Posted

This bathroom had in-floor radiant heat. I couldn't figure out how to turn the damn thing on.

This controller had a single button. When I pressed it, nothing happened. It's not a touch screen, the front panel doesn't flip up or slide out to reveal other controls and pressing the button for a long time or repeatedly does nothing.

Can anyone tell me how this sucker works? I don't see anything resembling it at the Nuheat site.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

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Posted

I don't know the Nuheat brand, but similar controllers I have seen are a touch screen type. You may have to touch the appropriate icon and hold it for a couple seconds. The bar below the screen is likely context-sensitive.

Posted

Hi Jim,

Each of those white panels on either side of the silver band in the middle fold out and back to reveal the buttons for programming and turning the heat on and off behind them.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

Posted

The narrow white panels, flanking the display, are little hinged doors. The timer programming and mode setting buttons are behind the left door. Behind the right door are the temperature modes/adjustment buttons.

We gots lots of electric radiant in high-end bath remodels here.

Posted

Here's one from my bathroom, with the "doors" open...

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You can get to the manual at http://www.nuheat.com/products/accessories.html . Scroll down and click on the "Thermostat Manual — NTG5220" link.

In short though, if it's off when you get to the home, pressing the little sun symbol button (top right) should start it up...assuming the power switch (upper left) is on.

Posted

Some of these modern appliances and controls are too much for me. I've got auto-text in my report that disclaims some of these things just based on my dumb factor.

I just don't have enough time to dink with 'em and figure them out.

Posted

Thanks all. It makes sense now.

Well, except that, according to the manual, the little squiggly lines mean that the heat is on. The little squiggly lines were on for the entire inspection and the floor was still icy cold by the end.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

Posted
Originally posted by Jim Katen

Well, except that, according to the manual, the little squiggly lines mean that the heat is on. The little squiggly lines were on for the entire inspection and the floor was still icy cold by the end.

Not just on, but 5 squigglies indicate full on. I was wondering about that when I saw your photo. It's possible, although very unlikely, that they have programmed the comfort setting (sun) down to 62, but then you shouldn't see the 5 squigglies for more than a few minutes.

What is, unfortunately, much more likely is that you have a problem. With the floor "still icy cold" I don't think it can be a temperature sensor problem. The best scenario would be a loose cable connection behind the thermostat. Other than that, you are probably talking about ripping up the floor to find a break or damage in the heating cable...which isn't really possible and means re-intalling the whole thing (heat pads, tile, etc) anew.

It's the one scary aspect of the under-tile radiant floor mats. I was very, very careful when I installed mine, using all the recommended precautions to prevent and/or detect damage before and during tile laying. Even then, it was a huge relief when I fired it up for the first time and everything worked.

I love my warm bathroom tiles...I just don't ever want to have to fix anything.

PS. One other possibility is that there are 120 and 240 volt mats and matching thermostats. If they screwed up that part it might either not heat very much or could have fried the cables depending on how they mixed voltages. But, nobody would do that...right?

Posted

On a similar subject. If anyone is involved in specifiying or installing this type of system, someone just recently gave me a good tip:

When you are installing the system in a ceramic tile floor, include a second tempersature sensor in the floor at the time of initial installation. The sensors are relatively inexpensive but a pain in the ass to install after the floor is done. If the original temperature sensor fails, all you have to do is move the wiring to the other sensor.

Posted

I've run across similar control units in the past, I pull out the amp meter and measure current flow on the floor heat circuit to assure that the system is operational. Seems like they take a long time to warm a cold floor, but not having one in my home I have no direct experience.

Robert E Lee

GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

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