Heavy Orange Vapor Barrier Material

[hausdok]

Hi All,

I seem to remember someone posting a photo of some really heavy duty polyethylene vapor barrier material a while back but I can't seem to locate it. Does anyone remember what the post was about. All I can remember about the stuff is that it was bright orange and I think it was reinforced.

OT - OF!!!

M.

[Richard Moore]

Mike, I don't remember the post...but is this the stuff?

http://www.poly-america.com/Documents/O ... iesSht.pdf

Looks like it comes in either 10 or 15 mil.

Oooh, here's another...

http://www.insulationsolutions.com/prod ... ation.html

6.5, 10 & 16 mil.

After comparing the specs for both 10 mil products, the second, the Viper Vaporcheck looks to be much, much stronger than the Husky OrangeGard (first link).

Using the same ASTM tests the Viper comes in at 15,839 grams for puncture resistance versus only 2,300 grams for the Husky. That seems like a very important quality as workers are going to be giving the barrier a hard time before the pour.

I see it's for under slabs but, while probably overkill, it sure would make a colorful change from the basic black in crawls.

[Mark P]

How common is it today to place a vapor barrier under a slab on grade and how long has it been in practice? As a kid growing up in Florida I saw / visited many many slab on grade job sites and they sure never had anything under the cement except florida sand.

[hausdok]

Hi Richard,

Thanks, I think the Viper one is the product I was thinking of. I say that because I'd somehow gotten this image in my head of a dragon logo.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[Bryan]

I am in the process of placing a vapor barrier under my home. I am using a 10 mil product called Vapor Block, which I picked up at my local concrete supply house. The material is Blue in color, tear resistant and heavy as all get. It came in a 15 X 200 foot roll and cost around $340. They also have a special 4" tape for the seems.

Bryan

[Scottpat]

Originally posted by AHIS

How common is it today to place a vapor barrier under a slab on grade and how long has it been in practice? As a kid growing up in Florida I saw / visited many many slab on grade job sites and they sure never had anything under the cement except florida sand.

Well, if you don't want ground water seeping into the slab it is very important and common. I can't say anything about FL but in MS and TN all of the homes with slabs I see have a vapor barrier.

[hausdok]

Originally posted by AHIS

How common is it today to place a vapor barrier under a slab on grade and how long has it been in practice? As a kid growing up in Florida I saw / visited many many slab on grade job sites and they sure never had anything under the cement except florida sand.

IBC 2003

1807.2.1 Floors. Dampproofing materials for floors shall be installed between the floor and the base course required by Section 1807.4.1, except where a separate floor is provided above a concrete slab.

Where installed beneath the slab, dampproofing shall consist of not less than 6-mil (0.006 inch; 0.152 mm) polyethylene with joints lapped not less than 6 inches (152 mm) or other approved methods or materials. Where permitted to be installed on top of the slab, dampproofing shall consist of mopped-on bitumen, not less than 4-mil (0.004 inch; 0.102 mm) polyethylene, or other approved methods or materials. Joints in the membrane shall be lapped and sealed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions.

OT - OF!!!

M.

[jakethecedarman]

I am converting a 35x35 concrete block building into a kiln. I need to frame in pony walls with insulation. I'm going to put a vapour barrier inside the insulation and then top it off with T&G plywood.

Will this product work? the humidity and temperature inside the kiln will be very high (like 80% and 180degrees), and we can't afford any water getting into the insulation.

Also,

I'll have to drive screws throught the vapour barrier into the framing to attach the plywood. Will this affect the vapour barrier?

Any help would be great!

[Terence McCann]

Originally posted by hausdok

Hi All,

I seem to remember someone posting a photo of some really heavy duty polyethylene vapor barrier material a while back but I can't seem to locate it. Does anyone remember what the post was about. All I can remember about the stuff is that it was bright orange and I think it was reinforced.

OT - OF!!!

M.

That would have been me Mike. I'm going to hate myself for doing this but this is the link for that thread: Radon Update

[Terence McCann]

Originally posted by jakethecedarman

I am converting a 35x35 concrete block building into a kiln. I need to frame in pony walls with insulation. I'm going to put a vapour barrier inside the insulation and then top it off with T&G plywood.

Will this product work? the humidity and temperature inside the kiln will be very high (like 80% and 180degrees), and we can't afford any water getting into the insulation.

Also,

I'll have to drive screws throught the vapour barrier into the framing to attach the plywood. Will this affect the vapour barrier?

Any help would be great!

You can call their company for this type of question(s).

Also, I would imagine the more penetrations in the barrier the less effective it becomes.

[hausdok]

Hi Terry,

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

re. the kiln, your user name tells me that you might be thinking about building a kiln for drying lumber. if I were you, I'd leave the vapor barrier out of the walls. Vapor will be driven via diffusion through the walls to the drier/cooler exterior. Put a barrier in that wall, floor, ceiling plane and you'll only create a bending steamer. If you must use something, use a polyolefin house wrap or something else which is permeable.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[Terence McCann]

Originally posted by hausdok

Hi Terry,

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

re. the kiln, your user name tells me that you might be thinking about building a kiln for drying lumber. if I were you, I'd leave the vapor barrier out of the walls. Vapor will be driven via diffusion through the walls to the drier/cooler exterior. Put a barrier in that wall, floor, ceiling plane and you'll only create a bending steamer. If you must use something, use a polyolefin house wrap or something else which is permeable.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

When we installed high end computer room air conditioning we always install vapor barrier behind the drywall. If we didn't the moisture would just shoot through the drywall to the exterior skin making humidity control damn near impossible. This was back in the days where large main frames weren't very forgiving - 70F with 45% to 50% RH.

Trying to maintain 80% RH @180F without a moisture barrier is going to be impossible. The delta T will really drive everything to a cooler place.

Also, I'm not sure how 80% RH is going to react with plywood? Have you done this before?

I wonder if Greenboard, Wonderboard or Hardibacker might not be a better bet.

[Jeremy]

Originally posted by jakethecedarman

I am converting a 35x35 concrete block building into a kiln. I need to frame in pony walls with insulation. I'm going to put a vapour barrier inside the insulation and then top it off with T&G plywood.

Will this product work? the humidity and temperature inside the kiln will be very high (like 80% and 180degrees), and we can't afford any water getting into the insulation.

Also,

I'll have to drive screws throught the vapour barrier into the framing to attach the plywood. Will this affect the vapour barrier?

Any help would be great!

dry kiln

You might want to check this out and ask these guys some questions.

[jwbruce]

I own a building inspection co. in Gatinea Quebec Canada, after trying many different vapour barriers I have found one sold by SoCo supply USA to be the best . To the person looking for the orange one.