John Dirks Jr Posted October 24, 2007 Report Posted October 24, 2007 My first real appointment is booked. It looks pretty straight forward. A good starting point. Brick town home built in 1953. I searched the address and came up with a preview linked below. Appears to be an easy job. Have a look at the link and tell me if you think there are things I should keep in mind with a property of this type and era. I see the glass block windows in the basement which could be an egress problem depending on how the basement will be used. What do you see? Anything of interest?
Phillip Posted October 24, 2007 Report Posted October 24, 2007 The first time is aways the hardest one. Take your time as you inspect. When you finish your inspection do it again. Some times a larger item that has a problem can cause you to over look a smaller item. Let use know how it turn out.
chicago Posted October 24, 2007 Report Posted October 24, 2007 I hope this helps but I suggest you bring a cheat sheet as you will be a little nervous and may forget to check something. Do yourself a favour by taking lots of pictures when you need to see what you forgot to note. A picture under the sinks is a must ,as is the open electrical panel. Here ,if you think it is easy ,answer this off the top of your head. Will it be a main or a remote distrubution panel inside a town house? Last tip is make an excuse for going back to the vehicle and think for a minute. This is where you can collect thoughts on what you need to look at. Good Luck
Scottpat Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 The listing reads: BEAUTIFULLY RENOVATED HOME, UPGRADED FEATURES INCLUDE, NEW FURN & C/A, BOTH BATHROOMS TOTALY NEW, HOT WATER HEATER NEW, WALL TO WALL NEW. WONDERFULLY DESIGNED KITCHEN WITH MILLS PRIDE CABINETS. TILT-OUT REPLACEMENT WINDOWS, ALL 3 DOORS DOORS REPLACED. THIS PROPERTY IS A PLACE TO CALL HOME AND READY FOR IMMEDIATE POSSESSION. Code for this property is being flipped. Look for old electrical. Look for water supply problems. Chances are that neither have been completely updated. Best advice is to arrive early, say about 30 minutes. This will allow you to look at the exterior and to calm down before you start the show. Next piece of advice is to say " I do not know, but I will find out and let you know", if you are asked a question that you do not have a clue about. Do not make anything up, they will appreciate you telling them that you will look it up and get back with them.
Chad Fabry Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 What Scott said: Don't get fixated on a system or a problem. When that happens all other issues become invisible.
Jesse Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Scott's advice is good. With no eaves, maybe a nasty attic or ice damming from lack of vents. Where are the downspouts and sump pump discharging? Good luck. Stay focused.
chicago Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 I953 I would check the electric and roof as areas of concern. Exterior will probably be ok. On second thought those railings are iron and most likely rusting at the cement.
charlieb Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Originally posted by Scottpat The listing reads: BEAUTIFULLY RENOVATED HOME, UPGRADED FEATURES INCLUDE, NEW FURN & C/A, BOTH BATHROOMS TOTALY NEW, HOT WATER HEATER NEW, WALL TO WALL NEW. WONDERFULLY DESIGNED KITCHEN WITH MILLS PRIDE CABINETS. TILT-OUT REPLACEMENT WINDOWS, ALL 3 DOORS DOORS REPLACED. THIS PROPERTY IS A PLACE TO CALL HOME AND READY FOR IMMEDIATE POSSESSION. Code for this property is being flipped. Look for old electrical. Look for water supply problems. Chances are that neither have been completely updated. Best advice is to arrive early, say about 30 minutes. This will allow you to look at the exterior and to calm down before you start the show. Next piece of advice is to say " I do not know, but I will find out and let you know", if you are asked a question that you do not have a clue about. Do not make anything up, they will appreciate you telling them that you will look it up and get back with them. A flip is a sleeper. Many problems are masked. Fresh paint and all. Hunt for problems that are characteristic to the age and region. Sorry but MD is way different than my area so I can be of no help there. Go slow and look carefully.
John Dirks Jr Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Posted October 25, 2007 I realized that 1953 would have originally been non grounded receptacles. I will be taking a close look at the possibility of any of that old wiring still remaining. Lots of great advise so far. Thanks so much. Anyone else just keep it coming.
Erby Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Is the roof part of the inspection, i.e. is the owner responsible for the roof or is the association. Will you inspect even if the association is responsible as this can be a big assessment. Look close in the attic for this as evidence of ice damming. Image Insert: 37.26 KB See the black & white at the bottom of the sheathing.
Bain Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Check for water damage beneath that front door. If the basement's finished, press with your foot along the threshold in the entry hall. Also, make certain the firewalls are intact between your unit and its neighbors. Check that they replaced the coil along with the furnace and C/A--I mean, A/C. If the evaporator coil isn't 13 SEER, it's wrong. If the place is a flip, as others have suggested, try to find out if they finished the basement. If they did, the wiring likely had to be inspected by a governmental entity before the drywall went up. Look for a sticker in the panel that says, "Basement remodel," or something similar. I don't see an air-gap on the kitchen sink, but the photo's small so maybe I'm missing it.
chicago Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Ok looking at the picture I am wondering about the gutters. Is that two of them side by side. Make sure they go the six feet and look for signs of flooding in the basement. Normally I would look inside the furnace housing for a water line but it is new. Most likely new drywall down there . So signs may be found in the back utility room where there is most likely a washer dryer .The glass blocks look newer.After looking at the kitchen I am sure you will find galvanized pipe and need to check for low pressure .
Chad Fabry Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 galvanized pipe and need to check for low pressure volume.
AHI in AR Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 The previous responses all contain good info. I believe the most important advice is the admonition to look closely at things if this is indeed a flip. I have done a bunch of those locally. Almost without exception, they do a lot of cosmetic work and the mechanicals are an absolute train wreck. After all, buyers fall in love with the sizzle of a property, not the (unknown to them) condition of the plumbing, wiring and HVAC systems.
Mark P Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Be sure to pinch the realtor on the butt as you slip them your card. Searously, Good Luck!
chicago Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Yeah.. the Agents name is Bubba. Galvanized steel pipes in a house are typically 1/2 inch inside diameter. The connections are threaded. When the pipe wears out, the rust accumulation inside the pipe chokes down the diameter of the pipe, resulting in poor water pressure. Eventually, the pipe will rust through, usually at the joints first, resulting in leakage.
Chris Bernhardt Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 I ditto the cheat sheet. I still to this day run down the SOP during and at the end of the inspection to make sure I have covered everything. Chris, Oregon
John Dirks Jr Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Posted October 25, 2007 Originally posted by Chris Bernhardt I ditto the cheat sheet. I still to this day run down the SOP during and at the end of the inspection to make sure I have covered everything. Chris, Oregon Actually, several weeks ago I set up my report software template to not only include all of the NAHI SOP but also exceed them in a few areas. As I navigate through the screens on the PDA it will force me to address everything. If I miss something the software will flag the category as "incomplete". I guess you could say it has a built in cheat sheet. Thanks for all of the tips. As others have stated, my nerves will be one of my bigger challenges. I trust they will calm down as I get rolling. I have done two of the consultation jobs. The second one was much more relaxed than the first so I know the feeling in general.
member deleted Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Originally posted by AHI My first real appointment is booked. It looks pretty straight forward. A good starting point. Brick town home built in 1953. I searched the address and came up with a preview linked below. Appears to be an easy job. Have a look at the link and tell me if you think there are things I should keep in mind with a property of this type and era. I see the glass block windows in the basement which could be an egress problem depending on how the basement will be used. What do you see? Anything of interest? http://www.coldwellbanker.com/servlet/P ... e=property I think you will do just fine. Lot's of good advise already, but I would not go into the inspection with the mindset that it's going to be an easy inspection based on the photos provided. Every home is different! And remember that YOU are the professional home inspector! Everyone that is present at the inspection will be looking to you for the answers, so keep things in perspective and keep in the back of your mind that you know more than they do about inspecting homes. Congrats on the job, and good luck Kevin
allspec33351 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Request that your client receive all manuals, guarantees, and contracts related to recent improvements. Suggest to your client that they obtain a permit record of the unit. Find out what is and is not covered by HOA or Condo Assoc. And look like you know what you are doing. Captain
Chad Fabry Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Bob, the pressure is the same whether the pipe is the size of an artery or the Alaskan pipeline. The diamter of the tube affects volume, not pressure.
chicago Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 That was direct off the Carson Dunlop site. When a shower does not hit the end of the tub but sprays down like a guy needing Viagra everyone refers to that as weak pressure though it may be you are technically correct. Same reason I do not stick to 55 mph when everyone else is going 70mph. I go with the flow Of course I still call copy machines Xerox's
hausdok Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Well, Given that most of the "schools" use the C-D stuff, and that there's a whole lot of inspectlore being spread by the schools, I'm not surprised. Be-that-as-it-may, these wrong ideas need to be corrected whenever and wherever they're encountered. OT - OF!!! M.
chicago Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 Galvanized pipe was commonly used for water supply lines many years ago, but over time many have filled with scale, which is why some older homes suffer from low water pressure. Hard water greatly reduces the life of steel pipe.http://www.keidel.com/mech/pvf/pipe-galvanized.htm I can find and link sites from suppliers and plumbers that use the same term though yes there is satisfaction in knowing you are correct.Technically and I agree, but at the same time feel ok with that term.
John Dirks Jr Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Posted October 25, 2007 I understand that volume capability is the more important factor for the home owner. Pressure plays a role in there too. For instance, if there is an obstruction in a supply line up stream it will effect the volume capability. Lets say you have one faucet running and the pressure is x. When you open another faucet at the same time, the pressure in the line will drop, especially if there is an obstruction up stream of the faucets that will effect volume delivery. On the other hand the pressure up stream of the obstruction wont change as much if any at all. Pressure and volume do relate to one another, more so in some circumstances than in others as well as depending on where, when and how you take your measurements. Having said that, it is lack of volume that will get the attention of the home owner much quicker. Does that make sense?
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