Flashing stone veneer

[Chris Bernhardt]

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Shouldn't this stone veneer be flashed between it and the casing? This is brand new construction.

Chris, Oregon

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[Brandon Whitmore]

I can pull a code reference if you want, but I believe the wording is that flashing should be provided where dissimilar siding materials meet. My opinion is that this should qualify as a point where dissimilar siding materials meet.

[John Dirks Jr]

Maybe a piece of trim to cover the gap and sealed with caulk. Done neatly it would look good. It does look incomplete as it is.

[Scottpat]

I would say that it is required. That is part of the building envelope, in a way. Was this the same all around the home or was it just at the garage?

[Brandon Chew]

Yes to flashing. No to caulk. Caulk should not be used as a substitute for proper flashing. A joint that relies on caulk as the primary water barrier is a leak waiting to happen.

[kurt]

Is that adhered stone, or real stone?

[hausdok]

Hi Kurt,

It's lick 'n stick. I see that same cast stone all the time here. It would really look better with a piece of flashing at the horizontal transition, but I don't think the lack of one is going to make a difference. This stuff is like stucco - it's applied to a mud-wire lath base over paper and it's designed to drain. Even without the flashing, water simply runs past it and leaves the wall at the bottom as it's supposed to.

OT - OF!!!

M.

[Chris Bernhardt]

If the scratch coat extends up under the casing then the casing is effectively counter flashing the scratch coat. Right?

There might be a concern only if the scratch coat terminates at the transition don't you think?

Chris, Oregon

[hausdok]

While it would look for finished and esthetically pleasing with some flashing there, the scratch coat doesn't need to extend up behind the casing. The point I was trying to make is that they don't really need to be flashed because, if they're installed properly, the wall will drain very well.

OT - OF!!!

M.

[kurt]

You know, I can't ever recall having seen "lick & stick", and don't honestly know what it is. I know how real stone works (I live in a masonry city), but haven't the foggiest about this stuff....

Anyone got some brand names or links for me to look over?

[Scottpat]

Originally posted by kurt

You know, I can't ever recall having seen "lick & stick", and don't honestly know what it is. I know how real stone works (I live in a masonry city), but haven't the foggiest about this stuff....

Anyone got some brand names or links for me to look over?

Here you go http://www.culturedstone.com/

Also this is a link to a diagram that just about covers everything that this post is about.

http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/ ... etail4.asp

[Brian G]

I put a bunch of it on my house when I built it. We like the look of stone, but didn't have budget for it. I twisted the arms of a few friends and family for help, and we put it up with only a couple of very basic instruction sheets (I didn't even have internet at the time). I actually enjoyed it, except for what the mortar did to my fingers over the days we were working on it.

That stuff is tougher than you might think. Just 6 months after moving in we had a helluva storm come through. A 90 foot pine tree out back went down into the roof of the master suite, finally stopped by the top plate of one of the lick & stick walls. Two pieces were knocked off; maybe three or four busted. That was it. I was impressed.

Brian G.

Rockin' the House [:-party]

[hausdok]

Kurt,

It performs about the same as stucco. Two layers of 60-minute paper, some wire lath, mortar and then the stones are pushed into the mortar. The whole thing is supported temporarily on a wood cleat attached to the side of the house. Sometimes they'll bolt a steel anchor to the wall to support it.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[Jim Katen]

Originally posted by kurt

You know, I can't ever recall having seen "lick & stick", and don't honestly know what it is. I know how real stone works (I live in a masonry city), but haven't the foggiest about this stuff....

Anyone got some brand names or links for me to look over?

Think hardcoat stucco with really big aggregate.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Martin Lehman]

So where is the weep screed? If it is just like stucco, is the weep screed also required?

[stuccoman]

Another install link.

http://www.robinsonbrick.com/products/r ... lGuide.pdf

[Jim Katen]

Originally posted by Martin Lehman

So where is the weep screed? If it is just like stucco, is the weep screed also required?

I don't know about "required" but Owens Corning shows it here:

http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/ ... etail1.asp

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Chris Bernhardt]

In the IRC what does this stuff fall under: Exterior Plaster or Stone and masonry veneer?

If it is indeed stucco then shouldn't it terminate 2" above the pavement?

Chris, Oregon

[hausdok]

No Chris,

It isn't stucco, it is like stucco in the way it is installed on a bed of mortar, on lath, over two layers of paper. I think you could call it a "type" of masonry veneer. I think the stuff in your pictures will drain well even without a weep screed. However, when the joints are struck and smoothed there needs to be a way for moisture to get out as with masonry veneer or stucco.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[Brandon Whitmore]

Shouldn't this stone veneer be flashed between it and the casing? This is brand new construction.

http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/ ... etail4.asp

Here's Ownen's Corning's best practice detail for this installation showing flashing at this area.