Suretest test

[mthomas1]

To get back to Suretests and GFCIs for a moment:

One thing that vexes me is when you have (for example) counter outlets on one side of the kitchen that test (with the ST) as GFCI protected from an upstream GFCI outlet (the ST test trips the upstream outlet), but on the other side of the kitchen, the ST GFCI test trips nothing (the counter outlets appear to be unprotected).

In such cases its often clear that likely all the electrical work was done by the same person the same time, and I find myself wondering "Huh? They bothered to do it right on that side but not on this one?", and in my mind the tester's results become somewhat suspect.

In this case I report how I tested and the result, and as I'm not getting call-backs from pissed off electricians who discover such outlets are protected, perhaps the ST is highly accurate in such cases.

But I do wish my confidence level was higher, and that I had a "foolproof" way to test for GFCI protection.

[Jim Katen]

Originally posted by mthomas1

To get back to Suretests and GFCIs for a moment:

One thing that vexes me is when you have (for example) counter outlets on one side of the kitchen that test (with the ST) as GFCI protected from an upstream GFCI outlet (the ST test trips the upstream outlet), but on the other side of the kitchen, the ST GFCI test trips nothing (the counter outlets appear to be unprotected).

In such cases its often clear that likely all the electrical work was done by the same person the same time, and I find myself wondering "Huh? They bothered to do it right on that side but not on this one?", and in my mind the tester's results become somewhat suspect.

Or perhaps the house was built before 1996. In those bygone days GFCI protection was only required for those kitchen receptacles within 6 feet of the sink.

In this case I report how I tested and the result, and as I'm not getting call-backs from pissed off electricians who discover such outlets are protected, perhaps the ST is highly accurate in such cases.

But I do wish my confidence level was higher, and that I had a "foolproof" way to test for GFCI protection.

I don't understand your uncertainty. Push the GFCI test button, check to see that the outlet in question is dead = certainty.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[mthomas1]

Jim,

"I don't understand your uncertainty. Push the GFCI test button, check to see that the outlet in question is dead = certainty."

As noted above, some GFCI outlets will trip with the internal test button, but not with the ST. If this is true, is it also true for outlets downstream from these outlets?

[Jim Katen]

Originally posted by mthomas1

Jim,

"I don't understand your uncertainty. Push the GFCI test button, check to see that the outlet in question is dead = certainty."

As noted above, some GFCI outlets will trip with the internal test button, but not with the ST. If this is true, is it also true for outlets downstream from these outlets?

If it trips properly with the internal test button and if, having tripped, it cuts power to it's own receptacles as well as the downstream receptacles that it's supposed to protect, then that's good enough for me.

Suretest devices have a pretty spotty record as far as accuracy and reliability go. I own an ST-1D and, while it's occasionally useful, I don't really trust a damn thing it tells me. If the Suretest indicates a problem, I confirm with a multimeter or by taking the outlet apart.

As for voltage drop, I don't even go there anymore.

-Jim Katen, Oregon

[Richard Moore]

As noted above, some GFCI outlets will trip with the internal test button, but not with the ST. If this is true, is it also true for outlets downstream from these outlets?

Yes, it would be...but what Jim was pointing out is that if all the GFCI receptacles you can find in the kitchen are tripped (test button or ST), and you still have power at some other kitchen receptacles, and you can't trip those with the ST (or any GFCI tester), you can be 99.99% certain they are not connected to a GFCI device in the kitchen or elsewhere.

[Kyle Kubs]

Originally posted by mthomas1

Jim,

"I don't understand your uncertainty. Push the GFCI test button, check to see that the outlet in question is dead = certainty."

As noted above, some GFCI outlets will trip with the internal test button, but not with the ST. If this is true, is it also true for outlets downstream from these outlets?

Next time keep your eyes open for loose fitting receptacles. If the ground prong from the tester (any tester) isn't making contact inside the receptacle, then there is no way to induce a ground fault. When I run into this with a sloppy, loose receptacle I plug it in and push the plug sideways to make sure I get contact. If that makes the difference I recommend the old (or newer big box brand ($0.59)) receptacle be replaced