densvxer Posted May 30, 2006 Report Posted May 30, 2006 o here's my story - hopefully will not become a saga..... Just doubt I should start putting back together yet. The basement shower and moldy drywall had to go, picked up a new tub. But of course the drain needs to be moved. The shower had a history of kitchen refuse bubbling up in it. I thought maybe the drain pipe was crushed between the shower and the main. Last week had a plumbline services inc. come out and run a snake though it he reported mud which means broken pipe. Said the line was clean though. After the rip out and concrete removal, found the cast iron p-trap had the hole. Pulled it out but now the cast iron pipe it was attached to is leaking water, when I run the kitchen sink up stairs, flush the toilet in the same bathroom (~8 cups of water pour out of it) or run the sink water. I dont believe this should do this, as a novice DIYers opinion, need professional advice. Had to put a rubber cap on the pipe for now. Hoping this is not another 1961 plumbers engineering debacle. Should I call the plumber back in to snake again? Or is this normal? Also I am trying to understand the correct procedure to attach a new plastic p-trap and drain to this cast iron. See attachments for better understanding. THANK YOU FOR ANY AND ALL RESPONSES Todd in Littleton Colorado I have an additional question, I read in another post that someone installing a shower it needs to run a vent pipe.... there is a vent by the main but does there need to be one installed closer to my tub install because of code changes?
StevenT Posted May 31, 2006 Report Posted May 31, 2006 Your main should not leak, the pipe is probably cracked. If your sewer is not draining properly, and you're not sure why, have it video cammed. Very interesting and you'll know what's going on. As far as venting because of code changes, forget code changes, the tub should be vented properly, otherwise it will not drain right. I vent tubs or toilets no further than two feet away from the p-trap or floor flange elbow. Check the pitch. If the main is clear, pitched properly, fittings in proper direction/installed properly so that the pan/tub is higher than the main and everything is properly vented, nothing should back up into the showerpan/tub. Re: attaching pvc to cast iron, get a Fernco clamp. But beware, cutting old cast iron can be tricky and dangerous. After all of this explaining, perhaps the best advice is to call a professional plumber. There are certain things that you want to get right the first time. I would think this is one of them. Busting up concrete can be a hassle.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now