Mike Lamb Posted October 26, 2018 Report Posted October 26, 2018 Some instructions I have seen for roof vent terminations call for a flashing for PVC pipe. What would be the downside of using a lead plumbing stack flashing?
Marc Posted October 27, 2018 Report Posted October 27, 2018 Squirrels love to bite into it. I dunno why.
Jim Katen Posted October 27, 2018 Report Posted October 27, 2018 Squirrels love sweet-tasting things. Lead salts are sweet. I suppose that the surface of lead that's exposed to the weather might produce some lead salts that the squirrels like. Combine that with lead's soft texture and it might explain why the squirrels love biting it.
Erby Posted October 29, 2018 Report Posted October 29, 2018 Seen a bunch of lead flashings chewed up by squirrels. Though it seems to take longer than it takes for the rubber ones to dry rot.
Jerry Simon Posted October 30, 2018 Report Posted October 30, 2018 On 10/29/2018 at 2:32 PM, Erby said: Seen a bunch of lead flashings chewed up by squirrels. Though it seems to take longer than it takes for the rubber ones to dry rot. Not sure if I've ever seen rubber flashings for such; we use Neoprene boots around here, a synthetic polymer that weathers much better than rubber.
Erby Posted November 2, 2018 Report Posted November 2, 2018 There's always that one dang grammar nazi hanging around, huh Jerry. "Neoprene (also polychloroprene or pc-rubber) is a family of synthetic rubbers that are produced by polymerization of chloroprene. Neoprene exhibits good chemical stability and maintains flexibility over a wide temperature range." My apologies for not being so specific as to include the word "synthetic' in front of rubber in my post. 😁 😁 😁
Jerry Simon Posted November 2, 2018 Report Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, Erby said: There's always that one dang grammar nazi hanging around, huh Jerry. "Neoprene (also polychloroprene or pc-rubber) is a family of synthetic rubbers that are produced by polymerization of chloroprene. Neoprene exhibits good chemical stability and maintains flexibility over a wide temperature range." My apologies for not being so specific as to include the word "synthetic' in front of rubber in my post. 😁 😁 😁 Erby, I've never seen Neoprene dry rot as you mentioned, so I figured in your neck of the woods they use rubber, not Neoprene. Grammar Nazi? Jeesh. . . Edited November 2, 2018 by Jerry Simon
Jim Katen Posted November 3, 2018 Report Posted November 3, 2018 I've seen them made from EPDM, neoprene, & silicone. In my area, the most common ones by far are made by Oatey. Those from the early '90s and earlier seemed to last forever, while those from the late '90s till about 2010 or so would deteriorate and crack at the drop of a hat. In the late 2010s or so, it looks like Oatey changed the formula - the "rubber" portion looks and feels different - it has a pebbled surface and is harder and less resilient. I've never seen one of these crack. Anyone else noticed this?
ejager Posted November 3, 2018 Report Posted November 3, 2018 10 hours ago, Jim Katen said: I've seen them made from EPDM, neoprene, & silicone. In my area, the most common ones by far are made by Oatey. Those from the early '90s and earlier seemed to last forever, while those from the late '90s till about 2010 or so would deteriorate and crack at the drop of a hat. In the late 2010s or so, it looks like Oatey changed the formula - the "rubber" portion looks and feels different - it has a pebbled surface and is harder and less resilient. I've never seen one of these crack. Anyone else noticed this? I had one the other day; all the flashings were changed when they re-shingled about 5 years ago, so cannot sure where this boot sits in the formulation timeline, but it has that pebbled surface. The other boot on the same job was just fine.
Jim Katen Posted November 3, 2018 Report Posted November 3, 2018 That's not the kind I'm seeing. They have a steel base and the pebbled rubber is shinier.
ejager Posted November 3, 2018 Report Posted November 3, 2018 Interesting how things vary from location to location. The metal base kind went out of fashion for plumbing stacks a while ago here in favour of the all rubber, and that more frequently now its the newer thermo-plastic base with minimal rubber around the stack only (https://www.oatey.com/2375038/Product/Oatey-Thermoplastic-No-Calk-Roof-Flashings-Standard-Base_ Still see the metal base with rubber for electrical masts, sometimes more than we should. 😄
Jim Katen Posted November 3, 2018 Report Posted November 3, 2018 I like the way they just sit on top of the shingles in the happy-go-lucky, carefree way. 1
DCBuildings Posted December 11, 2018 Report Posted December 11, 2018 Actually, if the original flashing was cracked, then sliding new flashing down on top of it like these pictures would generally fix the water intrusion in most cases, possibly getting years more life for the cost of the $5 boot. Toss in a little silicone between the boots and Bob's your uncle. You could even cut the flats off the 2nd boot, and just slide the bell down with caulk... if you don't like the happy-go-lucky appearance
Marc Posted December 11, 2018 Report Posted December 11, 2018 7 hours ago, DCBuildings said: Actually, if the original flashing was cracked, then sliding new flashing down on top of it like these pictures would generally fix the water intrusion in most cases, possibly getting years more life for the cost of the $5 boot. Toss in a little silicone between the boots and Bob's your uncle. You could even cut the flats off the 2nd boot, and just slide the bell down with caulk... if you don't like the happy-go-lucky appearance Sort of like the flashing/counter-flashing concept, but I still wouldn't do it. I like clean, straightforward construction.
Bill Kibbel Posted December 11, 2018 Report Posted December 11, 2018 7 hours ago, DCBuildings said: Actually, if the original flashing was cracked, then sliding new flashing down on top of it like these pictures would generally fix the water intrusion in most cases, possibly getting years more life for the cost of the $5 boot. Toss in a little silicone between the boots and Bob's your uncle. You could even cut the flats off the 2nd boot, and just slide the bell down with caulk... if you don't like the happy-go-lucky appearance Repair collars, without the flange, are available.
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