Overheating Circuit Board?

[Troyster510]

I should Probably mention why I thought that "low cost replacement board" might be compatible. It reads replacement for Rheem 62-24084-82. Well I read somewhere else that the 62-24084-82 was the replacement for my 62-22737-08. It seemed weird that I couldn't find anything relating the "low cost replacement board" directly with  my 62-22737-08 board, but then thought maybe because my 62-22737-08 board is so old and already replaced by the 62-24084-82. When I look at the photo of the "low cost replacement board", it has all the connections I need. At least it appears that it does. Anyway, just wanted to mention that just in case that makes a difference.

[Marc]

1 hour ago, Troyster510 said:

I should Probably mention why I thought that "low cost replacement board" might be compatible. It reads replacement for Rheem 62-24084-82. Well I read somewhere else that the 62-24084-82 was the replacement for my 62-22737-08. It seemed weird that I couldn't find anything relating the "low cost replacement board" directly with  my 62-22737-08 board, but then thought maybe because my 62-22737-08 board is so old and already replaced by the 62-24084-82. When I look at the photo of the "low cost replacement board", it has all the connections I need. At least it appears that it does. Anyway, just wanted to mention that just in case that makes a difference.

My wholesaler has the means, at his terminal, to identify any other cards that can replace the defective card. He can be quite resourceful.

The complexity of such control cards goes far beyond the available connections on it.

[Troyster510]

The control board went back to being available on Amazon again, so I purchased it. ETA is 11/28 - 12/2.

[Marc]

On 11/22/2022 at 6:53 PM, Troyster510 said:

The control board went back to being available on Amazon again, so I purchased it. ETA is 11/28 - 12/2.

Good. How are you heating your house?

Edited November 24, 2022 by Marc

[Troyster510]

With electric heaters. I live in California, so it's no emergency.

[Troyster510]

I put the new control board in today. Cleaned everything up while I was at it. I'm going to wire it up later, maybe tomorrow or Tuesday.

[Troyster510]

I completely installed the new board. It mostly works. The igniter starts the burners (which is something the old board wasn't doing anymore), but as soon as the igniter shuts off, the burners shut off too. I've tried cleaning the flame sensor, but that had no positive effect. The flame sensor looked fairly clean anyway. At this point I'll need to hook the flame sensor up to a meter to see if it's generating current. I've already checked the continuity of the flame sensor wire. I have the wire connected to M1 on the board.

[Troyster510]

Looks like there's a modification required. According to this diagram the flame sensor wire needs to be moved from its previously designated spot over to pin 7.

[Les]

Never did much (none) on circuit boards in furnaces - But I sure am enjoying your adventure!  Guess I may be a voyeurer at heart!

[Marc]

5 hours ago, Troyster510 said:

Looks like there's a modification required. According to this diagram the flame sensor wire needs to be moved from its previously designated spot over to pin 7.

Where was the flame sensor wire routed to on the old card?

[Troyster510]

On a spot marked m1.

[Troyster510]

I take that back. After looking over everything more carefully it looks like I need to move pin 3 wire in p2 (6 pin harness) and move it to pin 7 hole in p1 (9 pin harness). I may need a Molex extraction tool. I've tried using tiny wires with no success.

[Jim Katen]

If you're going to start moving pins, definitely get a Molex extraction tool set. 

[Troyster510]

I'm only moving that one. 

I was also testing micro amps on the flame sensor. I couldn't get a decent reading while it was inside the furnace,  but while testing it over a stove burner I got 3.5 micro amps. I cleaned it up, but I still wasn't getting a good reading when mounted in the furnace. I decided to purchase a new one just to play it safe. The wire has continuity.

[Troyster510]

I have the heater running in a temporary way at the moment. One thing that threw me off was that the igniter and flame sensor both share the same neutral wire. When I was trying to get a micro amps reading I had no idea that all the amps were basically being grounded out by the neutral wire. As a temporary test only fix, I ran a wire from the flame sensor directly to pin 7 in the 9 pin harness. I saw the orange light light up to let me know the board detected a flame and the burners remained on. I was pretty relieved. I'll send an update with photos once I have the fix permanent.

[Marc]

Good to hear.

[Troyster510]

[Troyster510]

[Troyster510]

High temp orange stranded wire.