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Posted

That's a common method for tapping power in the automotive world.

Really? I've been working on cars for more than a few years and I have yet to see it. It's bubba either way. So where do they tap in, the battery cable? That's a fire hazard waiting to happen unless you run an inline fuse.

Posted

That looks like the supply end of the main breaker. It takes a lot of spunk, or extreme idiocy, to attempt something like that.

Marc

Posted

That's a common method for tapping power in the automotive world.

Really? I've been working on cars for more than a few years and I have yet to see it. It's bubba either way. So where do they tap in, the battery cable? That's a fire hazard waiting to happen unless you run an inline fuse.

Well, something like that. Just the insulation is removed from the supply wire and the strands are separated. Then the supplied wire is wrapped into the strands and the whole mess is taped up.

If you don't like the idea, don't get a non- factory remote start installed.

(Don't anyway, they create some weird difficult-to-diagnose issues)

Posted

What ever happened to these?http://www.wakemakers.com/16-awg-splice-tap-connector.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKEAiAp_WyBRD37bGB_ZO9qAYSJAA72Ikg6D1Sm3NIZLSK2PjQtGtAhHq8A8VlJ1dmMdrllbSObhoC27Pw_wcB

Posted

What ever happened to these?http://www.wakemakers.com/16-awg-splice-tap-connector.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKEAiAp_WyBRD37bGB_ZO9qAYSJAA72Ikg6D1Sm3NIZLSK2PjQtGtAhHq8A8VlJ1dmMdrllbSObhoC27Pw_wcB

Every single installation resulted in a wiring failure?

Posted

That's a common method for tapping power ......

Yeah, and David, thanks for sharing that with the rest of the dum-ass world. [:)]

And BTW, trees don't burn down, they burn UP.

But Houses burn down and flaky wiring is a prime cause of that. [:(]

Posted

That's a common method for tapping power in the automotive world.

Really? I've been working on cars for more than a few years and I have yet to see it. It's bubba either way. So where do they tap in, the battery cable? That's a fire hazard waiting to happen unless you run an inline fuse.

Well, something like that. Just the insulation is removed from the supply wire and the strands are separated. Then the supplied wire is wrapped into the strands and the whole mess is taped up.

If you don't like the idea, don't get a non- factory remote start installed.

(Don't anyway, they create some weird difficult-to-diagnose issues)

I usually tap into the fuse box for power. Usually there are extra points for connections in battery, ignition and accessory modes. If I need to tap in to an existing circuit, I cut the wire, strip and use crimp type butt end connectors. Cut, and strip properly, crimp really tight with proper tool and I've never had a problem.

I've installed a number of aftermarket alarm systems. I always avoid the remote start and kill switch features. Don't want trouble with that. I do want a blue LED flashing on the dash telling the would be thief there's gonna be alot of noise and flashing lights if he continues. I put the led on top of the dash above the inst panel so you can see it across the parking lot.

My son was getting work done on his tattoo in Baltimore City the other night. He came out to find that 4 of the cars in the lot including ours had windows smashed out. This 2003 Escape has a factory alarm. If you try and reach through an open window and unlock the door from the inside, the alarm triggers. The console was opened and the CD's tossed on the floor but the glove box and everything else in the back of the vehicle (alot of stuff) was not touched. I'm sure the thief did not expect the alarm in this particular car. He stayed only long enough to look in the console then took off. I'm thinking our vehicle was the last one in the lot to get broken in to.

I went to the pick and pull junk yard today to get a new glass. Found my donor vehicle and had it out in about 10mins. I brought a battery pack comprised of 8 AA's to equal 12v. I tapped into the power window harness and used the battery pack to lower the window to the proper position for easy removal. Cost for the glass was $25.

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Posted

Looks like our John D is an automotive wizard. Lots of multi-talented folks here.

Marc

Thanks Marc. Not really a wizard though. Just very skeptical about turning my stuff over to have others mess it up. Trust me now, I mess stuff up too. When I do, at least I know it and correct it. Started with my first car since I had no money to pay for repairs and maintenance. I have money now but lack trust in others.

Posted

"...I went to the pick and pull junk yard..."

We used to have those around here but not any more. Likely a liability issue with insurance.

In this area, Crazy Rays is what the generic name is but the official business is LKQ pick your part. They have 4 locations in close proximity to me. Check out their FB page. They announce new arrivals sometimes. I've save lots of money there. I had an idler pulley go bad on a jeep cherokee. This pulley is a sealed bearing unit that is pressed onto a shaft that is part of an AC condenser bracket. Cant get it at the regular part stores and the dealers want $400. At Crazy Rays you plop it on the counter and say "AC bracket" They respond with "$16". That's just one of many scores including a pair of GT40 Cobra heads I got for my mustang. $100. Had them milled, lapped the valves myself, slapped on new valve springs and they've been kickin ass on my 92 Foxbody ever since.

https://www.facebook.com/Crazy-Rays-Aut ... 840818155/

Posted

"...I went to the pick and pull junk yard..."

We used to have those around here but not any more. Likely a liability issue with insurance.

In this area, Crazy Rays is what the generic name is but the official business is LKQ pick your part. They have 4 locations in close proximity to me. Check out their FB page. They announce new arrivals sometimes. I've save lots of money there. I had an idler pulley go bad on a jeep cherokee. This pulley is a sealed bearing unit that is pressed onto a shaft that is part of an AC condenser bracket. Cant get it at the regular part stores and the dealers want $400. At Crazy Rays you plop it on the counter and say "AC bracket" They respond with "$16". That's just one of many scores including a pair of GT40 Cobra heads I got for my mustang. $100. Had them milled, lapped the valves myself, slapped on new valve springs and they've been kickin ass on my 92 Foxbody ever since.

https://www.facebook.com/Crazy-Rays-Aut ... 840818155/

Amazing, That same part on my Dodge Diesel pickup cost me $700 a year ago. Labor and serpentine got it over a grand.

Marc

  • 2 weeks later...

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