Skylight and re-roofing

[Marc]

The sides and sill are flashed over the roofing. The profiles are both 1" tall so they can sit on top of the ribs, with a hemmed leg that goes down to meet the field of the panel. The panel is cut and bent up the sides of the curb.

I wish I had some photos. There are two curb-mounted skylights above my head that are flashed into a 12" snap-lock roof, but it's dark right now and way off the ground.

I follow you clearly. Yeah, that and long overlaps should work great for Stephen (sgbroimp). Sounds like custom fabrication is about the only way to go in this case.

Marc

[sgbroimp]

Tried to get some photos this am, but it was 27 and the roof was a frosted skating rink. Will try again tomorrow after Thanksgiving. So much appreciate all of your input and wish you all a good Thanksgiving holiday.

[sgbroimp]

Here are the promised photos:

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[Marc]

Given what I see in those photos, skylights and standing-seam roof covers just do not seem to play well together.

It's a bad marriage.

Go back to shingles or remove the skylight.

Marc

[kurt]

Yeah, that fellow is a leaker. I'd guess it to leak just like you described.....high wind specific conditions.

You're backing up a ways to make it right.

[David Meiland]

He could possibly have used the Velux sloped curb, but he would have had to install it on another curb that was flashed with metal bent to order from the roofing manufacturer. As far as I can tell, the Velux item is designed to be shingled in. I wonder how that installer normally deals with skylights on metal roofs.

I wish I could easily get some photos of mine, but I'm chicken-sh!t on a ladder anymore. They're on a 6:12 pitch with the eave about 18 feet above a concrete slab. I do have a ladder hook built into an adjacent part of the roof, so I could conceivably climb 20 feet up on a 12:12 pitch and then cross over onto the 6:12. Last time I was up there was in a bucket lift, which I rented to trim trees.

[Tom Raymond]

No need to wonder David, I'd wager you're looking at exactly what he does. It's far too neat to be an on the fly solution. Wrong, but tidy.

[kurt]

I wonder how that installer normally deals with skylights on metal roofs.

My guess is he hasn't. He's thinking barrier instead of management; anytime there's a caulk joint on a skylite/metal roof installation, it's guessing and improv.

I think it's salvageable, but there's a bunch of sheet metal that's gotta come off.

Google "metal roof skylite flashing". There's a lot of pictures showing options, some right, some stupid, and a couple videos. There's a lot of ways to go at this, but they're all predicated on taking off sheet metal to get the underlayment, dams, and channels all working right.

[sgbroimp]

Thanks, guys. I am curious what Kurt sees specifically to tell him this is a stinker in wind driven rain situations. For 10 years on original shingle install (old work not new) it did great, then after re-shingle if started this leaking business in big wind storms and as near as I can tell in only one spot, high left side. Now that is leak entry point not necessarily start location of course. But the fact is there is a whopping 20 lineal feet of curb to roof contact here (curb is about 4 x 6') and only one little trouble spot, so is the install really so junky???

[David Meiland]

The first thing I noticed is that the skirt is not on top of the ribs. Can't tell exactly what's going on at the head, and can't see the sides.

[Tom Raymond]

There is no skirt. That is a step flash pan.

[kurt]

I don't use terms like "junky". It leaks. Something is wrong in under where we can't see.

Metal roof skylite installs that work usually look weird to those unfamiliar with the process. It's entirely unlike a shingle install. It should stand alone and not leak before the metal goes on.

[kurt]

I'm looking for a picture of the flashing curb we fabricate for metal. Your install has a bunch of particular complications that needed a lot more attention than your guy gave it. Neat and clean, but wrong.

[kurt]

Can't find it.

Like Raymond said, the whole curb isn't intended for use with metal roofing. There should be an entire "U" shaped trough that fits around the head and sides with a high leg that gets counterflashed by the curb. Ideally, the trough should have a couple dams in it that deflect wind drive rain and cause water to run down the trough and out the bottom. This curb could be used, I suppose, but only if the installer had the rest of their act together and knew how to integrate it to the trough. The metal roofing should drain to the trough, essentially; trying to seal it at the head flashing (with what looks like IWS) is a sign the guy wasn't thinking it through. It's the same arrangement used for any high profile roofing like barrel tile or standing seam.

There should be a wide spread SWRB (I guess that's what it's called now) around the entire installation to catch whatever incidental water gets around or through the flashing.

Yeah, this costs more and takes more time.