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Posted

I am currently investigating the best method to construct the gable end wall and truss with a tail bearing truss. Show below are 3 different possible configurations:

truss_su67_800.jpg

1.) Structural Outlookers (Vertical)

truss_su68_800.jpg

2.) Non-Structural Outlookers (Horizontal)

truss_su69_800.jpg

3.) Structural Outlookers (Horizontal)

This is just one possible method of framing the gable end wall into the gable truss with a 2x4 outlooker. Option 3 shown above is somewhat of a question, not sure how that heel joint would come together.

View the model here to analyze the different configurations:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u75c42456-c8e5-4002-bc93-779860f8dc61

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Posted

I am currently investigating the best method to construct the gable end wall and truss with a tail bearing truss. Show below are 3 different possible configurations:

truss_su67_800.jpg

1.) Structural Outlookers (Vertical)

truss_su68_800.jpg

2.) Non-Structural Outlookers (Horizontal)

truss_su69_800.jpg

3.) Structural Outlookers (Horizontal)

This is just one possible method of framing the gable end wall into the gable truss with a 2x4 outlooker. Option 3 shown above is somewhat of a question, not sure how that heel joint would come together.

View the model here to analyze the different configurations:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u75c42456-c8e5-4002-bc93-779860f8dc61

#2 will sag. #1 provides a nail base for the soffit, #3 does not.

I vote #1.

Marc

Posted

I've been looking at a number of garage designs recently that employ an attic or storage truss. I'm finding that a lot of them tend to use raised heels to allow for more head room while having a lower roof pitch (ie. 6/12 - 8/12). I'm thinking about adding in raised heels for the attic truss type in the plugin.

A quick mock up would look something like this:

truss_su72_800.jpg

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... 07185fa663

Ignore the unbalance in the panel lengths, in practice and in the plugin they will be properly balanced.

What I do have a question on is the use of a top chord splice as shown in the above image so that the overhangs do not have to be as deep as the top chord in the non-triangulated region of the truss. I have never seen a splice used on a attic truss with a raised heel, I don't see why it can't be done but it is always nice to have a confirmation that someone else is doing this sort of thing in practice.

Posted

. . .

What I do have a question on is the use of a top chord splice as shown in the above image so that the overhangs do not have to be as deep as the top chord in the non-triangulated region of the truss. I have never seen a splice used on a attic truss with a raised heel, I don't see why it can't be done but it is always nice to have a confirmation that someone else is doing this sort of thing in practice.

I've never seen it done either. Seems like it would be fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've been considering transition trusses and what it might take to add them into the plugin. Below is a quick study of this type of roof. I am curious to know if a common trusses is butted up next to a transition truss for sheathing purposes. Also notice the scissor transition, this situation is a little complicated, not exactly sure how to deal with it.

truss_su89_800.jpg

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... 2e3e134ba3

Posted

This is a re-visit of the unequal pitch hip roof a few days back. Larry Belk, an experienced architect whose advice I highly regard, has suggested that an alternative way to handle this type of roof is to raise the top plate and thereby allow the overhang to remain constant around the roof:

truss_su90_800.jpg

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... 25d7ebd795

Compare with hip roof 7:

truss_su88_800.jpg

and model:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... bc73878207

A few things pop out at me here.

First the raised top plate method allows the constant overhang with the continuous fascia, overall this is more aesthetically pleasing.

Second the hip rafter is no longer at the corner but is jogged in some amount onto the higher wall.

Third, the higher wall actually is protruding through the sheathing of the lower pitched roof in the model. Obviously the higher wall needs to be trimmed back some to deal with this.

For the plugin I thing I will go with option 1 above initially but at some point it would be good to have a checkbox that allows one to choose either of these two options, the code is going to get ugly.

Posted

It's hard enough trying to figure these things out mathematically and then have SketchUp draw them. I have no idea how one could actually make some of these crazy double angle miter cuts. If it was up to me to build it I would probably have a huge pile of scrap lumber about 3 ft. deep around the entire perimeter of the house, when I was done.

Posted

Version 1.4.2 - 03.19.2016

- Added energy/raised heels for attic trusses (1 variant: vertical w/ strut).

- Addressed some minor usability issues with the attic truss menu and options.

truss_su92_800.jpg

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u4f64fd8b-160f-49ce-815d-a66991527cdb

I've had quite a few people asking for this update so stayed up most of the night and knocked it out. Note, that the raised heel option is currently limited to attic trusses with a span of 24 ft. or greater. The reason for this is the way my logic currently works with spliced top chords. If this becomes an issue I will spend some more time on it to encompass attic trusses with a lesser span. I still do not have the gable truss, metric input or structural outlookers for this truss type, yet more items for the "todo" list.

Posted

Thinking about dormers today and attic trusses:

truss_su93_800.jpg

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... 5691b1c678

2-ply girder trusses on each side of the dormer with ladder framing between. I haven't bothered to show all of the main floor framing geometry (doors, windows, stairs etc...) My question is what would be the best route for the infill framing above the dormers.

1.) Ladder frame perpendicular to trusses.

2.) Install a ridgeboard hangered between the girder trusses and a lower header and install rafters parallel to the trusses?

Note that the manual creation of the dormers took about an hour whereas the attic truss main roof and dormer roof were created with the plugin and only took about 5-10 minutes. A dormer routine would be useful.

Posted

Thinking about dormers today and attic trusses:

truss_su93_800.jpg

View model here:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... 5691b1c678

2-ply girder trusses on each side of the dormer with ladder framing between. I haven't bothered to show all of the main floor framing geometry (doors, windows, stairs etc...) My question is what would be the best route for the infill framing above the dormers.

1.) Ladder frame perpendicular to trusses.

2.) Install a ridgeboard hangered between the girder trusses and a lower header and install rafters parallel to the trusses?

Note that the manual creation of the dormers took about an hour whereas the attic truss main roof and dormer roof were created with the plugin and only took about 5-10 minutes. A dormer routine would be useful.

When I designed and built my office, I did something similar except that the dormers were stick framed and vaulted on the inside. I used a ridge board between two sets of girder trusses. It gave me the freedom to vault the interior.

Posted

So, a girder truss is just two or more trusses joined together side by side to form a single, stronger truss?

Marc

Correct, you can even join more than two together. If the dormer were to get wider than a triple ply girder would be more appropriate. In typical girder design you will also see the Howe truss used since the panel length is shorter along the bottom chord than a fink truss. The bottom chord is also increase to a 2x6 or 2x8 member to allow for truss/joist hangers.

Posted

A basic algorithm to convert a common gable truss into a transition truss should not be to much problem. However, to make it handle all cases would become difficult if you include raised energy heels, drop top chords and scissor trusses in the mix. Consider the two examples below:

raisedheel_transition_ytifry.jpg

scissor_transition_pbeuyj.jpg

Posted

Polynesian 4/4 truss is working:

truss_su97_800.jpg

However, I haven't released this latest update yet, I still need to enable gable end trusses and advanced options for this truss type before it is ready for prime time.

The inputs are similar to all other truss types except you have two top chord pitches and a pitch break length measured from the left butt cut of the truss.

Posted

Version 1.4.4 - 03.21.2016

- Added Polynesian truss type, configurations: (4/4).

- Metric input enabled for polynesian truss type.

- Added gable end trusses for polynesian truss type.

truss_su98_800.jpg

I'm not sure where this type of truss is commonly used but whenever I see one I think of a bus stop or train station:

truss_su99_800.jpg

Advanced options are not yet enabled for this truss type yet, so sheathing, fascia, rake will have to come later.

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