Miles Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 The problem I have encountered is that there are two outside electrical outlets that do not operate. There is a breaker labeled “outside GFIâ€
Erby Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 No, but the next step is to start tracing the wire and the circuit. You may want to try one of the "tone generators" available at local hardware stores. They are useful in tracing circuits.
chrisprickett Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 A couple of thoughts: 1. The outlets may be switched. 2. Look for a GFCI outlet (with reset button) in the garage.
Tom Barber Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 Miles, look in the basement if there is one and also look near the main panel box. During construction in my area of VA the receptacle by the main panel box is made hot and is normally a GFCI. Tom Barber in VA
Paul MacLean Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 You guys are more ambitious then I am. I'd tell them to have an electrician solve the problem. There's only so much searching I will do before I punt.
Miles Posted November 30, 2005 Author Report Posted November 30, 2005 Thanks for the input so far. The following is some follow-up (based upon the suggestions so far). This residence has no garage or basement. It does have a full crawlspace but some areas are 18â€
hausdok Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 Hi, Well it isn't your problem, unless you somehow feel that you caused the issue. You've found an issue and reported it. That's all you're required to do. You aren't obligated to spend time trying to diagnose the problem for the client. That's what electricians are for. If you're curious about the root cause, ask the client to call you and let you know what the issue was, once the electrician has checked things out, discovered what the issue is and has corrected it. About the crawlspace. You said it is tight in there and that some areas are under 18 inches. That could be true, but unless clearance under the beams is less than 12 inches it should be fully accessible. I've been as heavy as 262 and have still been able to get all the way through 18 inch deep crawls and under beams 12 inches off the surface. It ain't easy. In fact, it's a royal pain in the butt and is physically very tough and dirty work, but it's the job. Keep in mind that chances are that crawl is where the electrician will find the open J-box under the joists with the wires from the conduit feeding those exterior outlets disconnected. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
Miles Posted November 30, 2005 Author Report Posted November 30, 2005 Mike, You are right of course, this problem is just really bugging me because the house passed an inspection a year ago and the current owner thinks the outdoor outlets worked in the past. I keep thinking there is tripped GFCI hiding somewhere that I can't find. By the way, if you weighed 262 and were squeezing under 12" beams in a crawl space then, if may paraphrase Rudyard Kipling - You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din! Miles
hausdok Posted November 30, 2005 Report Posted November 30, 2005 Yep, It used to be pretty tight. I'd exhale, pull under as far as I could and then push like hell with my feet. Every once in a while my danged belt would hang up and give me a hard time. It wasn't too bad if I was squeezing through on my back, but it was a royal pain when going under on my stomach. Got stuck once - took me about 20 - 25 minutes to wriggle loose. Anyway, those were the good old days. I dropped a whole lot of that weight a while back. Now it's a whole lot easier. OT - OF!!! M.
Jack Ahern Posted December 1, 2005 Report Posted December 1, 2005 In order to switch off the Christmas lights from inside, my wife instructed my sparky to add two circuits to the front of my house. Switched from inside the house. Weird--but she's the boss? [:-banghea Jack Ahern Needham on the Charles Bridgton,Maine
Miles Posted December 1, 2005 Author Report Posted December 1, 2005 Thanks Jack - That may be the solution I have been looking for. That doesn't explain the lack of a GFCI on the circuit. I don't suppose a switch could contain GFCI logic.
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