GUTTER PROBLEMS- PLEASE HELP

[roofguy]

I've attached a photo of gutter work done and want to get your opinion. The problem started when my neighbor had water and ice coming from behind gutter and down the side of the wall where the gutter ends near the wall.

As you can see in the attached photo a thin metal strip was first placed on the roof to run the water away from the gutter edge. This didn't work. then a splash guard was put on the end of the gutter and cut into the side of the siding. ( see pics with cut and gaps) that didn't fix the problem. Also 100+ feet of gutter was replaced all the way around her lower area are and still not fixed?

Does anyone see a problem with the steps described above?

Also now the water runs down, hits the splash guard and goes down behind the vinyl siding and down the block making the basement more damp? (running through slit cut into siding for splash guard)

PLEASE TELL US IN YOUR PROFESSIONAL OPINION WHAT WAS DONE WRONG HERE...

Robert

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[John Kogel]

I suspect there is a problem with the flashings where the roof meets the wall above the gutter. Step flashings should be in there, one for each course of shingles, and a couple of inches of metal step flshings should be visible between the shingles and the siding.

[Chad Fabry]

There is no way to fix that without removing some siding. Google "Kick-out" flashing.

[Erby]

Where is the water going into the wall at. Up the roof above the end of the gutter or below.

Doesn't look like the kick out flashing is installed properly. That could cause water to penetrate the wall below the gutter area.

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If it's above the gutter, there's likely a problem with the step flashing between the roof and the wall.

[Marc]

It's part of the problem with vinyl: Water always gets past vinyl and a kickout is no exception. The wall behind it needs to be sealed.

Remove all vinyl surrounding and below that juncture between eaves and the adjacent wall. Seal that wall properly from just above the eaves to the bottom then replace the vinyl.

If you want to do it better, seal ALL walls behind the vinyl wherever vinyl is installed.

Marc

[AHI in AR]

As indicated in previous comments, it is a given that water will get behind the vinyl siding. Properly done flashing is the critical factor in preventing water from causing problems. Caulking the crack where the kickout flashing and the vinyl siding meet won't help much. Vinyl siding moves around with temperature changes like a Moroccan belly dancer. You can't rely on caulk to stop water leaks. None of us can see what flashing may ? or may not ? be present behind the vinyl siding. But it's clearly not working. But as Chad said, correcting the problem will require removing some siding so that proper flashing can be installed. You you need a competent contractor who truly understands how water moves.

[StevenT]

Kickouts are a pain in the ass and you can't be too careful when preparing the detail.

As stated, there is lack of clearance between the cladding and roofline. There should be approx. 2" to allow for maintenance, removal of debris and free flow of water.

The best money will be spent on the internal moisture barrier. I would recommend self stick all the way down to the bottom of the cladding. If you make it waterproof before you install the cladding and it can drain safely, any incidental water that gets behind the system will be managed.

The diverter flashing looks field fabricated and it is impossible from the photo to determine mow the top is done.

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[Charles46]

PLEASE TELL US IN YOUR PROFESSIONAL OPINION WHAT WAS DONE WRONG HERE...

The answer is improper installation, of the siding, of the flashing, of the shingles, and that is before we remove the siding to see what was not done properly before the exterior was installed. The person that did the install may even say that he did it the way everyone else does it. Well that does not make it right. It is still not proper.