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Posted

New construction home. The roofing company installed shingles on a rainy day. Shingles have gone thru a few heat cycles and I thought that they would sit down by now. Does this look like a proper install? Comments Welcome.

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Posted

It might be fine, but I don't think lifted sections of shingles looks "normal". I'd be checking for nails sticking up below raised spots and a starter strip that actually has the adhesive below the lower edge of the first course of

shingles.

Posted

I think you've got a roof there where the guy nailing the shingles is not being careful to align his singles. He drops the shingle in place, slams a nail into the left side of the shingle and then takes the time to line it up. Sometimes, when he's done that and pulls the shingle down on the right edge to get it to line up, the bottom-left edge rotates left until it butts against the previous shingle and then it bows up slightly, Look at those closely. If the ones I see lifting are all at the joint between two shingles you've got your cause.

A piece of sheet metal and a razor knife. The roofer just needs to trim the little bit off the left edge of the right shingle at every lifted point. Push the sheet metal under the butt joint, overlap the two shingles, then cut straight down through the butt to remove any excess at the overlap. Go on to the next raised area. One the pressure is relieved, they'll all lie flat. If the roofer had to go through that one time, he'd make sure to kick his crews in the butt so they'd stop doing that. Maybe he'd even invest in a chalk line and a story stick - stranger things have happened.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

Posted

I'm with Mike though I'm not sure if I agree on the cause. Not a normal install at all.

I don't see how it could tie in with the rainfall that occurred during the install though you aren't supposed to trap moisture between the courses.

Marc

Posted

Thanks for the advise. I have help roof a few homes but by no means would I call myself a experienced - good roofer. Our amature work looks better than what is on my new home. I should have specified, it was pouring rain when they were installing it. I'm at the point were I want it ripped off and replaced. Not sure if that will happen. Do the valleys look correct, to me it looks like a lot of material overlap? Thank you for all the info.

Posted

I agree with Mike O. It's an easy fix. One could do it his way or one could use an old pair of tin snips, which do the job very quickly and easily.

The valleys look fine. There's nothing in the pictures to suggest that the shingles need to be torn off.

Posted

Thanks for the advise. I have help roof a few homes but by no means would I call myself a experienced - good roofer. Our amature work looks better than what is on my new home. I should have specified, it was pouring rain when they were installing it. I'm at the point were I want it ripped off and replaced. Not sure if that will happen. Do the valleys look correct, to me it looks like a lot of material overlap? Thank you for all the info.

Form what I can see from the photos, the valleys look like they're 'closed cut' style and that overlap I think you are referring to is normal. One looks off center. Moisture might become trapped in that one and cause the covering to fail prematurely.

I've never seen a composition shingle roof covering properly installed.

Marc

Posted

I'm not sure what Marc is referring to by "off center" but to be clear, the cut line of the valley should be two inches above the center line of the valley. The larger or steeper roof should drain onto the smaller or less steep roof. From the photos, the valleys look fine.

The eyebrows are caused by proud nails which is bad and they;ll wear through the shingle in short matter (what Bill said) or, they're caused by bunching the shingles. (What Mike said) Both causes of the same symptom leave the roof vulnerable to wind damage.

If the nails are proud, they can be set. It's not easy to fix though if the shingles are bunched because they're nailed that way- at this point cutting the shingle won't work unless one also removes the last nail in the shingle and re-nails after the edge is cut.

Posted

I'm not sure what Marc is referring to by "off center" but to be clear, the cut line of the valley should be two inches above the center line of the valley. The larger or steeper roof should drain onto the smaller or less steep roof. From the photos, the valleys look fine.

The eyebrows are caused by proud nails which is bad and they;ll wear through the shingle in short matter (what Bill said) or, they're caused by bunching the shingles. (What Mike said) Both causes of the same symptom leave the roof vulnerable to wind damage.

If the nails are proud, they can be set. It's not easy to fix though if the shingles are bunched because they're nailed that way- at this point cutting the shingle won't work unless one also removes the last nail in the shingle and re-nails after the edge is cut.

2nd photo from the bottom: the cut line is on the wrong side of the valley. It crosses the valley then rises a little.

Marc

Posted

When we specify 3 tab roofs we require that they construct the valleys with straight, one sided, weatherproof laps. It looks much better than the one in your photos where they just keep going and weave the valley. It also takes less skill to weave the valley.

Posted

When we specify 3 tab roofs we require that they construct the valleys with straight, one sided, weatherproof laps. It looks much better than the one in your photos where they just keep going and weave the valley. It also takes less skill to weave the valley.

The photos show closed cut valleys, not woven valleys.

Admittedly, the photos are poor.

Posted

"Proud" nails gets my vote. Slide a screwdriver in there and you'll feel a nail not pounded down flush. It is caused by sloppy use of a nail gun. No need to tear the roof off, but get it fixed.

Posted
"Proud" nails gets my vote. Slide a screwdriver in there and you'll feel a nail not pounded down flush

Or wait 'til dark/almost dark, stand on a ladder at the gutter edge, and shine a bright flashlight up the roof plane. Nails that aren't driven flush will be fairly visible.

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