paulmars Posted October 11, 2013 Report Posted October 11, 2013 my roof leaks in several places. No one can find, not even the pros. I either need a complete new roof or a coating. Otherwise the roof looks fine. Two years ago, a 4 point inspection said it has 10 years life left. I did not tell them about the leaks. It was installed in 1994, so its not up to the latest hurricane standards. House built in 1952. I have already installed rafter to block wall hurricane straps, secured the soffits, and gable end supports and used subfloor adhesive to attach the roof planks to the rafters and on the gable ends. Id like a new roof thats up to the latest hurricane standards, but a new roof is out of my budget. Im considering doing it myself, but i think its over my head. literally and figuratively. I have several questions. 1-How well do those liquid roof coatings protect from leaking? 2-If I use a roof coating, can I secure the shingles to the planks with extra nails before I apply the coating? 3-What is the best material to fix spot leaks on a shingle roof? tar, silicone caulking, other? 4-I have tas100 approved ridge vents and suspect they are the source of some/all leaks. I did replace them myself on one of my ridges and noticed that the roofer who installed them with the last roof job (1994) did not follow manu instructions. When i replaced them, 2 leaks went away, two did not and now there is a third leak in that roof. The other two roofs have same ridge vents and one of those roofs leaks too. Since I still have leaks on the roof that i replaced the vents, i never replaced the other ones. Im considering finding a better quality ridge vent (but dont know how to asses), or I might just close up the openings and have no ridge vents. Suggestions/ideas? 5-Im also considering a metal roof. That i think i could install. Id need help from a qualified roofer and would find someone to help me. From what I have read, some metal roofs, like the metal shingles can last 50 to 100 years. I like that! Ive also read that some of the other metal roofs are not every strong against hurricanes. Your thoughts? If I do #1 above, I will also replace or close off the ridge vents (#4 above). Ive lived in this house since 1986 and plan on living here for the rest of my life, so i want a roof that lasts and that i dont have to worry about. Id like to feel sucure against hurricanes too. Im ok with yearly inspections and upkeep, especially if I can do it myself. Every once in a while a plank to rafter 8d nail pokes up thru the shingles. Since 1986 I inspect yearly and seal up these holes. Which is why i asked about good shingle patching compound above. (#3) thanks much for any advice. The rainy season is about over, so i need to get busy. p
Scottpat Posted October 11, 2013 Report Posted October 11, 2013 If your roof is from 1994 and it is an asphalt shingle roof, it has had a good life and needs to be replaced. Roof coatings are about as good as repairing a hole in a canoe with duct tape! It will work for a little while but it will eventually start to leak again.
Marc Posted October 11, 2013 Report Posted October 11, 2013 Buy several canvas tarps and keep them handy until you've the funds to replace the roof covering. There are no half-solutions in hurricane country. Wish I could be of more help. Marc
John Kogel Posted October 11, 2013 Report Posted October 11, 2013 Asphalt shingle? Use asphalt-based roof patch. Start putting cash away for a new roof. Ditto on the tarps and some long planks.
Erby Posted October 12, 2013 Report Posted October 12, 2013 Ive lived in this house since 1986 and plan on living here for the rest of my life, Put on a good metal roof and be done with it.
paulmars Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Posted October 12, 2013 Put on a good metal roof and be done with it. define "good" Reference my point #5 ..."There has been a problem! Invalid Password or User Name".... Ahh a forum like no other, requiring me to enter name and pswd each time i post reply. I love efficiency!
Marc Posted October 12, 2013 Report Posted October 12, 2013 If you're going to use a metal covering, review this FEMA document. They're no haven but some can resist high winds. Marc
paulmars Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 roof pics. Please scowl down to the 2nd set of pics at http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/shingle-r ... ns-188426/ and more: http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/shingle-r ... 26/index2/
hausdok Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Looked at the pics. That roof is toast. According to your own measurements, you've got a 3.8:12 pitch with a 5-inch exposure in a place where your roof gets baked at 90 to 100 degrees most of the year. Since it's under 4:12 pitch it needed to have the underlayment doubled up and the reveal reduced to 3-inches instead of five when it was installed, and have every shingle hand-sealed, or it needed to be installed over a layer of ice and water shield so wind-driven rain blown under that low-pitched cover wouldn't end up inside. You've got extreme sunlight in Florida. There is severe granule loss. Sunlight is what kills the roof once you lose the protective granule coating and you've got almost no granules left. Don't even bother dinking around with it. It's not worth it. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
paulmars Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 Looked at the pics. That roof is toast. You've got severe granule loss and extreme sunlight in Florida. The sunlight is what kills the roof once you lose the protective granule coating. Don't even dink around with it. It's not worth it. Thanks. Why not a coating or three? pitch 3.84/12
hausdok Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Right now the deck can dry to the exterior and interior. Coat it with rubber and you turn that cover into a big piece of plastic that traps moisture against the deck. If there's any rot there you'll just accelerate it. Don't throw money away on jackleg solutions. Tear it off and put a decent cover on there - not a cheap fiberglass comp cover - they don't work well at low pitches - in fact those architectural-grade shingles don't even belong on a roof with that low a pitch. Put a cover on that's designed for wind conditions on lower slopes in your climate. Not sure why I'm bothering to respond to this. By the looks of the way you've responded on that other site thread, you're going to ignore what we tell you anyway and do what you want. You're looking for some kind of affirmation that what you want to do will work. You didn't get it there so you came here. When you don't get it here you'll go to another site and keep looking until you find some numb nuts who says it's OK and then you'll coat the roof. So, go for it; but when the roof deck rots a few years from now don't forget that you were warned and didn't want to listen. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
paulmars Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 Not sure why I'm bothering to respond to this. By the looks of the way you've responded on that other site thread, you're going to ignore what we tell you anyway and do what you want. You're looking for some kind of affirmation that what you want to do will work. You didn't get it there so you came here. When you don't get it here you'll go to another site and keep looking until you find some numb nuts who says it's OK and then you'll coat the roof. So, go for it; but when the roof deck rots a few years from now don't forget that you were warned and didn't want to listen. you dont know me. dont be so sure you know what i will do. I posted to several sites at the same time. its likely that i will post to a few more. ive learned a lot and am still learning. i dont know what i will do yet. neither do you!
paulmars Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 Right now the deck can dry to the exterior and interior. Coat it with rubber and you turn that cover into a big piece of plastic that traps moisture against the deck. If there's any rot there you'll just accelerate it. i never thought of that. im not opposed to a 1/2 assed fix to postpone a new roof for 5 years, but i will never knowingly do something that is likely to make things worse. Put a cover on that's designed for wind conditions on lower slopes in your climate. such as? Any reference sites?
hausdok Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 20 second bing search http://www.floridadisaster.org/hrg/index.asp
paulmars Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 20 second bing search http://www.floridadisaster.org/hrg/index.asp been there. Still need to learn more.
Marc Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 20 second bing search http://www.floridadisaster.org/hrg/index.asp been there. Still need to learn more. Only thing left is the manufacturers high-wind installation instructions. Marc
paulmars Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 If you're going to use a metal covering, review this FEMA document. They're no haven but some can resist high winds. Marc doing so now. Tks.
Samuel Clark Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 I think you have to get services of best roofing company such Window and door guys to find out the actual leakage problem in your home's roof, they will try to provide all essential options like you need to re-install new roof or need only repairing job. Editor's note: Nice try! Dropped link deleted. Tell your friends, TIJ is a no link dropping zone.
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