Stove hood ?

[John Kogel]

If you bring the sniffer in to a receptacle slowly, you can so test the polarity. The hot side will trigger a response sooner than when you approach from the neutral side.

I'm sure you already know this, but if you put your finger over the hot or neutral slot, you don't get the readings until the sniffer is in place.

Thanks, Brandon. I know what you mean - you can keep the voltage from leaking out like a dutch boy plugging a dike. Then test with your cheap toy sniffer. I'm Dutch myself so I can say that. No other ethnic jokes allowed.

[kurt]

Don't mean to interrupt the entertainment but this is the first 200 words. I'll do more if I'm headed in the right direction and an interest is indicated.

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Marc

It's a start. You ought to put together a simple little tutorial about how to use these things specific to our enterprise. My thoughts are selfish; I want a tutorial.

Don't get into long winded explanations; do it like Katen just did. Simple. With pictures.

You've got the educational credentials. Dumb it down to my level, with some pictures. You want to put it together, I'll help edit.

[Marc]

I'll try.

Ya know, I've been meaning to write short topics like these for years. Not just electrical, anything an HI can use.

Marc

[kurt]

Just do this. It'd be helpful.

[John Kogel]

Here's me testing a stove. One element was dead on a newer electric range. I had time so I pulled the element and tested for power at the plug. Then I could tell them it was just a faulty element. I check for basic operation of the appliances, but I don't have to.

I've got the leads braided together so that the meter can hang when there's no place to lay it, one thing that bugs me about using them in the field.

The other is that the 9 volt battery goes dead and for this unit I have to search for a tiny Phillips screwdriver to get the battery compartment open. Not a handy tool for inspecting, IMO.

The DMM is good for testing 240 volt outlets like a dryer plug when there is no dryer installed. Sniffer works for that too tho.

The DMM can tell you if there is 3-phase power to the building, because you will measure 208 volts in place of 240.

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[Carson2006]

Just some additional information regarding electrical procedures. There are personal protective equipment (PPE) items required by NFPA 70E. I don't have time to be really specific at the moment, fairly sure for the most part anyone using meters on exposed energized parts must be in a certain catagory of PPE. Usually 8 calorie Flame Resistant appearal. There is a lot more to voltage testing than most folks realize - at least if they do it "by the book". Only reason I mention it is because I would speculate most HI's are not aware of 70E and should the "stuff-hit-the-fan" during a procedure of electrial testing, it could become a legal liability and a financial nightmare for someone.

[Jim Katen]

Just some additional information regarding electrical procedures. There are personal protective equipment (PPE) items required by NFPA 70E. I don't have time to be really specific at the moment, fairly sure for the most part anyone using meters on exposed energized parts must be in a certain catagory of PPE. Usually 8 calorie Flame Resistant appearal. There is a lot more to voltage testing than most folks realize - at least if they do it "by the book". Only reason I mention it is because I would speculate most HI's are not aware of 70E and should the "stuff-hit-the-fan" during a procedure of electrial testing, it could become a legal liability and a financial nightmare for someone.

All true. Though I suspect that most electricians are no better than home inspectors with regard to their PPE.

Would you be interested in penning a short article on the subject?

[Tom Raymond]

I think the schmoes that write PPE requirements should be required to do their jobs wearing half the crap they they expect the tradesmen to wear.

Anyone ever spend 7 hours in a tyvek suit? It isn't pretty.

[Carson2006]

Agreed, probably most folks, electricians included, probably don?t follow these safe practices.

Which brings in the liability issue that when ?accidents? do happen, it often leads to huge legal battles.

However, I will try and provide you all with a talking paper regarding the safety requirements of NFPA 70E. Not dictating who?s right or wrong, just providing information.

Might take a day or two, so hang in there. As far as how to ?use? a Digital Multi-meter (DMM), that would be another issue to pen and can?t go into that. I?ll keep the topic on target with safety regarding the typical electrical hazards that I speculate the typical home inspector encounters.

Caveat, this information I provided is my humble opinion based upon my interpretation of NFPA 70E and is not endorsed by any entity. As far as my qualifications go, (humbly I might add), 27 years of experience in the electrical field to include high voltage distribution systems, industrial/commercial/residential electrical systems (licensed), certified instructor (Southern Conference of Colleges)of such electrical systems. In addition, I enjoy this site and enjoy seeing the electrical system problems you find during your inspections. Plus I enjoy helping you guys out from time to time.

Mr. C

[kurt]

Anyone ever spend 7 hours in a tyvek suit? It isn't pretty.

So true. It was my first revelation in understanding the stuff doesn't breath like the pretty 4 color advertising brochures say it does.

We called them "swamp suits".

[Tom Raymond]

And, it's a good thing I didn't shave my full beard before donning my supplied air respirator. I'd have suffocated when the compressor overheated and shut down.

Fit test my ass.