Test 240v outlets?

[rkenney]

You guys are referring to two different technologies,

I was waiting for someone to point this out.

True Wiggy's are no longer made but you can still buy them off ebay or amazon.

Knopp has been making the K-60 continuously for 40 yrs. (according to their web site) I like 'em because they're easy on my pocket.

The sniffers are different. They sense an induction field.

They actually employ capacitive coupling. A moot distinction to most, I'm sure, but one that is pointed out in Fluke's own Tech Notes.

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/communi ... orUses.htm

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[rkenney]

I get that, but without a fault there is no way a sniffer can indicate a bond.

I wanted to know what I was missing.

All I know is if you use a sniffer around an ungrounded object it will go off. Even in a home with ungrounded outlets the sniffer will go off an inch or so away from an outlet. I have no idea why or how it works but it does.

The grounded outlet is effectively 'shielded'. The sniffer can not detect the presence of an electromagnetic field.

An un-grounded outlet or ceiling fan or whatever has no such shielding, it will trigger in close proximity to the device.

The thing to consider here is "proximity". Different testers will respond at different distances due to their sensitivity and calibration.

[John Kogel]

Right. the better sniffers can be adjusted for sensitivity. The one I have used an oddball wafer type battery. NFG when the battery is dead, in fact, dangerous.

If conditions are right, you can check polarity on an ungrounded receptacle. If they've installed a polarized receptacle, like a 3 slot with no ground, the sniffer will tell if the narrow or wide slot is energized.

Back to the OP, yes, I try to test 240 outlets if they are accessible, sorry.

[inspector57]

I just keep the sniffer in my pocket and check ceiling fans, and metal light fixtures that are withing reach.

I find many that show to be "live" but touch the fixture with a finger and it goes dead, meaning the fixture is not bonded but no connection to a voltage source.

On occasion though the fixture is actually energized. Of course you have to have two wrong things to get that scenario, a lack of bonding and mis-wired hot in contact with the housing. You would be surprised how many I find that are truly energized. Sometimes appliance frames exhibit the same findings, just be sure not to get a reading from an anti-sweat heater fridge or similar false positives. When in doubt, confirm your suspicions with a multi meter.

[Tom Raymond]

I had a buyer following me around with a two lead neon tester. It showed several recepticals as dead. My three light tester showed them as fine, but my DMM indicated loose neutrals, 80 volts as compared to 120 to ground.

My sniffer works just fine for what I want, making sure the metal object I am about to touch isn't hot, and it fits in the same zipper case as my IR thermometer and DMM. I think I can skip the wiggy for now.

[Denray]

My Fluke won't fit far enough into those 220 volt outlets to light up. I stick a skinny screw driver in there then touch that with my Fluke. Use right hand on plastic handle of screw driver. Don't stand bare foot on garage floor, etc.[:-dunce]

[Jim Katen]

My Fluke won't fit far enough into those 220 volt outlets to light up. I stick a skinny screw driver in there then touch that with my Fluke. Use right hand on plastic handle of screw driver. Don't stand bare foot on garage floor, etc.[:-dunce]

Two of my partners do the same thing. I'd never heard of that before and thought it was clever. Now I realize that they just stole your idea. I'll berate them later.

[stubrooks]

I check them for voltage. I even made a set of test leads using the blades from a 240V plug. Yes, I've found a few that were either completely dead or only one side hot.