John Kogel Posted February 21, 2012 Report Posted February 21, 2012 If this was your chimney, besides fixing the flashings (and replacing the shingles)(and scraping off the parging), would you install a metal flue liner? Or knock out the old flue and drop in new masonry flue tiles? The chimney is about 50 years old, the oil furnace is a 10 year old conventional efficiency unit with a long vent connection to the chimney in the basement. It looks like 8" pipe. If it was up to me, the furnace would be closer to the chimney, but my concern is that the chimney flue liner looks bad. So what is the best option to make it safe? Click to Enlarge 107.12?KB Click to Enlarge 69.55?KB Click to Enlarge 51.13?KB Click to Enlarge 32.82?KB Click to Enlarge 47.55?KB The brick 'posts' are supporting a long brick fireplace extension in the living room, 1960's styling. They haven't moved a fraction of an inch in 50 years. The expanded metal guard is to keep the dog in or out, not sure which. The furnace could easily have been put on the other side of the wall, closer to the chimney and out of the way. []
Jim Katen Posted February 21, 2012 Report Posted February 21, 2012 I'd look at a cast in place liner. You know, one of those long condom things that you put down the chimney, blow up like a balloon, and pour lightweight liner mix around.
John Kogel Posted February 21, 2012 Author Report Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks, Jim. I haven't encountered that method here. That sounds like an inexpensive, one day job. How do they keep the condom from sticking to the concrete? Don't tell me it's lubricated??? [:-crazy]
kurt Posted February 21, 2012 Report Posted February 21, 2012 Beware. I used to think those were cool, until I started finding a lot of them that are fallen apart. No judgment here, only observation. Metal liner is cheaper, works fine, easy.
Jim Katen Posted February 21, 2012 Report Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks, Jim. I haven't encountered that method here. That sounds like an inexpensive, one day job. How do they keep the condom from sticking to the concrete? Don't tell me it's lubricated??? [:-crazy] They just deflate it. The ones that are poorly done fall apart. Like anything else, you've got to find someone who knows what he's doing. It's not inexpensive and it's not particularly quick.
Bill Kibbel Posted February 21, 2012 Report Posted February 21, 2012 If it's just the flue for oil heat, install an insulated stainless steel liner.Like Kurt, I dislike the inflate-a-form liners for additional reasons. If there's a need for a cast-in-place liner (I don't think the one in the picture needs it) I much prefer this method: http://www.ahrenschimney.com/residential2.html id="left">
allseason Posted February 22, 2012 Report Posted February 22, 2012 I actually saw the pour in place on This Old House years ago and thought is was a really good method, used on unlined brick chimneys. I heard later information on their lack of ability to fill bad mortar joints in the brick. They have got to be more expensive than a stainless steel liner. You need a concrete pump to reach the top of the chimney and then vibrate the material down the chimney. If you already have a clay liner that is not fallling into the bottom of the chimney I would agree with the SS liner. I put one in my block with terra cotta liner chimney when I converted from oil boiler (original 1957) to gas in 2000. Works well and under 2K for the SS liner-uninsulated-interior chimney.
John Kogel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks to all. This website has some info I might read sometime. [] http://www.chimney-liner-central.com/ch ... eline.html
Bill Kibbel Posted February 28, 2012 Report Posted February 28, 2012 I've never seen a long condom. I've never seen a short one, Stubby.
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