Jim Katen Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Download Attachment: Stupid (1).JPG 304.08 KB Download Attachment: Stupid (2).JPG 172.49 KB Download Attachment: Stupid (3).JPG 153.19 KB I'm stumped. Can anyone recommend a reasonable solution to this mess?
mgbinspect Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Not reasonable, but it seems in the past, that a good designer (I use the term loosely) would have called for the last few feet of that mess to be a soldered copper pan (or possibly membrane material). Newer construction is annoying. One piece roof to wall or chimney flashing, alone, drives me crazy. To think there was a day when flashing actually required no attention or maintenance for the life of the structure, and now because builders are cheap and lazy, it's a time bomb for the life of the structure, is a real shame. I've always though that if I returned to building, one piece flashing would be forbidden on my projects.
Darren Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 What came first, the gutter or the brick? How the hell did they get the gutter behind the brick?
Marc Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Reduce the overhang to 1 1/2" (beyond the veneer) wherever necessary. Ain't pretty but that's the price of stupid. Marc
mthomas1 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 I call those roof details "when CAD goes bad" - you can design it, but who can build it? Assuming that the client wants to retain the current general configuration, the only solution I can see is to get a Really Smart Roofer who knows how to field-fabricate soldered flashings to tear out the siding and roofing as required and fabricate a single piece corner flashing for that area - in Chicago I know of exactly ONE roofer I would trust to do it, and only if I was able to observe the entire process.
mthomas1 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 To think there was a day when flashing actually required no attention or maintenance for the life of the structure, and now because builders are cheap and lazy, it's a time bomb for the life of the structure... I really like that, and I'm going to steal it, to use when explaining this stuff to clients.
kurt Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Can we call in an air strike on the entire complex? Gimme some coordinates.....
Tom Raymond Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 The main roof should be flattened out for the bottom few feet so that it terminates on plane with the bump out roof. That will turn the valley away from the back of the quoin and be virtually invisible from the ground. It will still require custom flashing by a talented roofer, and quite possibly supervision. To borrow a phrase from Kurt; when anyone can design a house anyone will.
hausdok Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Yeah, If I were the contractor hired to fix that, I'd get a custom metal worker out there to design a deep custom fit mongo liner for that whole corner. Strip off the siding and some of the faux stone, have him work up a pattern in heavy cardboard and valley that would go well up the walls, roof and valley. He makes the pattern, removes it in one piece, goes back to his shop, solders it up in copper, tests it for leaks, brings it to the house and installs it over a layer of IWS, the edges get flashed to the deck and walls with IWS and then the deck and walls are restored. My reasonable solution would probably cost at least $1500. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
John Kogel Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Yeah, If I were the contractor hired to fix that, I'd get a custom metal worker out there to design a deep custom fit mongo liner for that whole corner. Strip off the siding and some of the faux stone, have him work up a pattern in heavy cardboard and valley that would go well up the walls, roof and valley. He makes the pattern, removes it in one piece, goes back to his shop, solders it up in copper, tests it for leaks, brings it to the house and installs it over a layer of IWS, the edges get flashed to the deck and walls with IWS and then the deck and walls are restored. My reasonable solution would probably cost at least $1500. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike The guys here would fabricate something similar, kind of a cricket to steer the runoff out and away from the wall. But they'd use OSB sheathing and torch-on membrane, and it would cost a bit more than that copper thingy. []
kurt Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Anyone trying to buy something that ugly deserves to be punished. Tell them to caulk it.......
Scottpat Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 I agree with Mike but I would increase the amount to around $5,000. That entire corner will have to be redesigned, bricks removed, siding removed (rotted wall you can not see repaired) and then all of it reinstalled.
hausdok Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 Hey, I said at least $1500. When I say at least something, I'm basically throwing out what I think the cheapest redneck with a hammer will do the job for. The guy I'd hire for myself would be somewhere above Joe-Bob and I'm betting nobody would want to swag a guess at that; it's going to be basically T & M at someone's standard hourly rate. ONE TEAM- ONE FIGHT!!! Mike
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