WH elevated off floor with wood

[Terence McCann]

What publication is that from Mike.

This is from the 2002 Plastic Pipe and Fitting Association handbook

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If you look at the picture of the tank it shows a flue.

The only reason you would want copper stubs would be the possibility of melting if getting to close to a gas fired flue. With an electric tank that problem isn't present.

[charlieb]

I understand but the text does not say such. A few written word all all that would be4 needed to make that exception.

I read and store digital copies of many product installation manuals. I inspected a home with an electric on demand water heater installed this week . The manufacturer explicitly required 36" of metal on the supply and distribution pipes.

So this leads me to continue to reference specific products installation instructions. They trump code. Its the safest source for our opinions.

[charlieb]

By the way, I do use Association manuals when I have no other credible installation requirement sourrce.

[hausdok]

I understand but the text does not say such. A few written word all all that would be4 needed to make that exception.

I read and store digital copies of many product installation manuals. I inspected a home with an electric on demand water heater installed this week . The manufacturer explicitly required 36" of metal on the supply and distribution pipes.

So this leads me to continue to reference specific products installation instructions. They trump code. Its the safest source for our opinions.

Hi Charlie,

I agree, that's why I'd highlighted the part of PPI's instructions that states, "if the local code and manufacturer’s instructions allow."

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

[Terence McCann]

Not to belabor the point but when does common sense kick in. If there is no flue what is the problem hooking PEX up direct?

Sometimes we make judgment calls and it doesn't make any sense at all to recommend copper stubs on an electric tank. What is 18" of copper going to protect against - ambient air?

[charlieb]

Well, not being the person who engineered either of the products, I would guess the temp of the water or metal fitting at the heater was high enough to warrant separating the products.

I believe we all make judgment calls in what we do. In my market fart fans exhaust into the attic space. 20 years of so crawling around attic and I've never found it to cause a problem. IF it ever did, I have the resources to correct any problem it did cause. IF a water line failed because of the connection to an electric on demand, the cost would be more than I am willing to bear.

I tell clients there are three factors to consider when evaluating a defect. 1. Probability of a problem 2. Implications of a failure and 3. Cost to correct. A high count in any one of the 3 and it is a BIG deal as far as I am concerned.

[charlieb]

By the way, I think many products are over-engineered. We also tend to disclose (over engineer) more in our reports just to play it safe.

[Terence McCann]

I hear ya Charlie - it's all in what we're comfortable with.

[charlieb]

tis true.

New construction I give little grace. The builder and trades can be held to do things properly. Existing homes I tend to give grace that is still rooted in the 3 factors listed above. I also consider how long it has been the way that it is. Sometime what I write has a basis on what I believe they will hear from the next inspector when they sell the home. No surprises and I've explained my beliefs.

Back to our example....The 18 or 30 inches of copper will act as a heat sink.