Hardcoat stucco questions.

[palmettoinspect]

I’m not very experienced with stucco systems and rarely inspect them so I have a few questions and would like some opinions about this hardcoat stucco system. Please correct me if I’m wrong, it appears to be typical 2-3 coat hardcoat system over fiberboard. It has plant-ons added at front corners and around front windows. No visible metal lath. The only thing visible from the attic was the fiberboard. There are vertical expansion joints and hairline cracks in various spot. No kickout flashing at roof and wall junction.

My questions are:

1. Is it ok to but the stucco directly to the window brick mold?

2. Is drip flashing required to protect the brickmold?

3. Is it ok/typical to put hardcoat stucco over fiberboard?

Any other issues or concerns with the pictures are appreciated.

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[AHI in AR]

The simple answer to your questions is that the job is a total mess. I have a football game to watch, but I'm sure others will chime in.

[palmettoinspect]

The simple answer to your questions is that the job is a total mess. I have a football game to watch, but I'm sure others will chime in.

Sorry to interrupt the game but please chime in when possible.

Thanks,

Kiel

[Marc]

I’m not very experienced with stucco systems and rarely inspect them so I have a few questions and would like some opinions about this hardcoat stucco system. Please correct me if I’m wrong, it appears to be typical 2-3 coat hardcoat system over fiberboard. It has plant-ons added at front corners and around front windows. No visible metal lath. The only thing visible from the attic was the fiberboard. There are vertical expansion joints and hairline cracks in various spot. No kickout flashing at roof and wall junction.

My questions are:

1. Is it ok to but the stucco directly to the window brick mold?

2. Is drip flashing required to protect the brickmold?

3. Is it ok/typical to put hardcoat stucco over fiberboard?

Any other issues or concerns with the pictures are appreciated.

If I assume that it's actually cementitious stucco, I'd answer as follows:

1) A gap should be maintained between the stucco and wood brickmold on the sides and the bottom for a backer rod and elastomeric sealant. The amount of moisture that stucco normally 'breathes' is more than needed to rot wood.

2) Drip flashing is required, especially for wood brickmold and a wood window frame.

3) I've never heard of fiberboard being described as a suitable substrate for stucco.

Metal lathe should be completely encapsulated by the base coat but the screed should be visible along the bottom.

Those 'plant ons' look suspicious also. I often see cement board substrates with EPS foam board for trim (plant ons), but the stucco should be contiguous over those surfaces, unlike what's shown in your photo.

If you don't see much stucco in your part of the country, perhaps some stucco start-ups attempted this job and ruined it.

Most of my info is from the Plaster Stucco Manual available from the Portland Cement Association.

Marc

[palmettoinspect]

Thanks Marc.

I might add that the home was built in 1988 and I didn't see and weep holes.

[Jim Katen]

Thanks Marc.

I might add that the home was built in 1988 and I didn't see and weep holes.

Weep screed, not weep holes.

The installation in your pictures is a mess. I'd be recommending a stucco inspector. Someone has to do some destructive investigation to see what shape the substrate is in.

- Jim Katen, Oregon

[Brandon Whitmore]

That installation looks worse than the last one I inspected; didn't know it was possible.

[palmettoinspect]

Thank you for looking guys.