Mark P Posted August 23, 2010 Report Posted August 23, 2010 New Construction. There is only about 1/8 inch of contact between the girder and shim. Click to Enlarge 49.11 KB This is the other end of the same girder Click to Enlarge 36.96 KB
Marc Posted August 23, 2010 Report Posted August 23, 2010 I agree that 3285 does cover more than 4930.3G, but I still do not see where synthetic shims are OK and metal shims are not. This is the section that cover shims http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2008/ ... 85.304.pdf Hello Scott, I wonder if I could get some clarification on the difference between a shim and a wedge? Because it seems to me that some posters on this thread are confusing the two, or maybe it's just me that's confused. Marc
Steve Traylor Posted March 3, 2011 Report Posted March 3, 2011 Use 4"x 6" steel shims. A box of mixed thicknesses can usually be purchased from a welding supply store for about $60. 4x4's are too small to support a 3-ply wood girder beam because it is 4 1/2" wide.
Steve Traylor Posted March 4, 2011 Report Posted March 4, 2011 Here is a picture from today's inspection. Click to Enlarge 25.4 KB
kurt Posted March 4, 2011 Report Posted March 4, 2011 That's a good idea. We used to get various thicknesses of steel scrap for shims; keep a box in the truck.
ridgernr58 Posted January 26, 2019 Report Posted January 26, 2019 (edited) Steel shims vs wood shims. The steel shims are going to be harder than any wood. Conversely, yellow pine is likely to be the most resistant to crushing of any wood used in your house structurally. So, that kind of negates the steel shims instead of wood. Throw in the cost and you have a no brainer. What it really comes down to in either case is the size of the bearing and the associated load. There is no advantage to exceeding the original bearing size. Personally, I only use treated yellow pine. I have been in residential construction for over 40 years. Edited January 26, 2019 by ridgernr58
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