rkenney

While your panel looks fully functional, and the neutral bonding question has been fully answered, I think your wiring technique will pose future problems for additions. The AFCI and GFCI breakers would be easier to work around if they did not cover the neutral bus. The lowest (in this case the highest) position is usually best. Nuetral wires for branch circuits are easiest to deal with in the future if they are wired to the same side of the panel as their associated breakers. Same with grounds. Neatest practice is to maintain a one on one relationship between branch circuit breakers and their neutrals and grounds. 1st breaker, left side - first neutral screw, left side - same circuit, etc. All your grounds and neutrals should go exclusively to the appropriate bus. Mixing them is functional, but a mess to service. This will make new circuits and troubleshooting much easier once the panel is 'live.' And of course, do not double wires to neutral or ground bus locations, this is strictly forbidden (code).

Ditto Marc, zip cord (stranded), split with a crimp connector. Call it out, sloppy at best. Every connection creates additional resistance, if they'd of wanted you to crimp something to each wire, they would have designed it that way. Hardly the way to feed a branch circuit.

I've never understood this particular qualm that home inspectors seem to have with the vertical orientation of single-wall vent piping. I was taught to do it that way! "Neatness and consistency provide lasting results," or words to that effect. Actually, though if you think about it, that's the designer's intent. All the furnaces and water heaters and dryers as well start with a 'male' end (either crimped or sized to fit inside the next section). The guy in the picture 'screwed up' from step 1, no draft hood. So he gets to the end of the run (assuming it went through the roof) and OOPS .... how do I install the rain cap (female)? That's the point when he should of started over, but they seldom do. Lets just 'butcher' the end of the pipe to make it fit. If the way the pipe was fitted (down) was all you could see, its a safe bet the rest is screwed up too.

No draft hood Flue is upside down No water shut-off Definately DIY

Sounds like: 1. bad igniter 2. dirty misadjusted igniter contacts 3. any wiring to above 4. worn dirty spray nozzle (no fuel vaporization) DO NOT continue to reset and try to light! You already indicated that you have a build up of oil in the furnace, should it light while your playing with it you could have an explosion. Best bet is to have a furnace technician repair and clean it. "If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur." Red Adair

Curious fire. Two rules for gas ovens: 1. Clean the inside of oven - all that built up crud is combustible! 2. Don't store stuff in the oven - pictured oven has items inside. Fire would have required source of ignition (pilot on older models) and gas valve failure open (at which point the thermocouple wouldn't matter). Magic Chef (acquired by Whirlpool in 2006) no longer makes freestanding gas or electric ovens - wonder why?

Jimi Heselden the current owner of the Segway company died, not Dean Kamen who was the inventor.

Cerro Wire 12 AWG UF Underground Feeder Cable. Was carried by Lowes, now discontinued. Does have a ground. Click to Enlarge 8.15 KB

12:12 is a 45 degree angle, half of that is 6:12 (22 .5), etc. etc. Point is, your protractor doesn't resolve to that accuracy (much less 9.46). Eyeball works much better, and unless you can find something more substantial to condemn the roof covering you are splitting hairs.

2:12 is 7.5 degrees. I don't know what your 10% (% is the percent sign) refers to. So looking at your angle gauge in the second post you have a 2:12 roof. If they're the right shingles with cement it is an appropriate use.

Air flow (volume) and velocity (pressure) are two different things. In this case you are changing both because you are varying the blower speed (source) as opposed to modifying the duct-work. (typically done wrongly when the basement is 'finished') What you ultimately are looking for is a temperature differential between the inlet air and the outlet air (at the air handler) of about 15 degrees for a high efficiency unit and about 18 to 20 degrees for an older unit (SEER less than 10). Go ahead and reduce the blower speed a step and see what happens. It should be alright, the different speeds are there for different size house installations. (large house needs to move more air a further distance) Possible annoyances of a high blower speed include air noise and wide temperature variances across a room.

When your talking about surface area of an evaporator you are speaking primarily of the combined surfaces of the individual tubes in the coil. Since most evaporators are an A frame design you can change the pitch (height) slightly to add more or larger coils (base will still be determined by cabinet size), but conversely you would want to eliminate coils to increase airflow (less obstruction). Can't do both. Best you can do is balance the needs of airflow and surface area to achieve the desired result. That's for the engineers to figure out.

Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratings. The primary advantage to a larger evaporator is greater dehumidification by virtue of a larger surface area. This is all accomplished on the evvaporator side of the system. Remove more moisture you remove more heat. Evaporator size (capacity) can not exceed condenser size by much however as you still need to dissipate the heat outdoors. Obviously this benefit is more useful in humid climates than dry ones. In the push to reach Govt. mandated 13 SEER many systems were installed this way. Newer systems can have 18 SEER or even higher.

PrntScr alone will usually copy your entire desktop. Alt-PrntScr will copy just the open window. (Less desktop garbage, re-size open window to desired size). Paste to anything that uses the clipboard/buffer. (Word, Paint, Outlook, etc...)

Hot Shot ant and roach gel bait. Comes in a big plastic syringe. Squirt a blob around an observed point of entry, inside or out. In a couple days they'll all be gone. Ants love this stuff. Find an ant trail and put some of this goo in the middle of it and within minutes they'll all be clustered around it and carrying it back to the nest. That's the real need. Surface sprays just kill the ants on contact, they feed on this stuff and kill the nest by taking it home, wherever that is.

Imagine his surprise when he carefully drilled a hole in the mortar of my brick facade, through the sheathing about two or three inches above the ground on the front of my home, missed the sill by 1/4 inch and water came pouring out. The twit drilled the copper water main running the length of the sill from entry to kitchen. He was glad I wasn't home!

Main Entry:1de?fect Pronunciation:*d*-*fekt, di-* Function:noun Etymology:Middle English, from Latin defectus lack, from deficere to desert, fail, from de- + facere to do ? more at DO Date:15th century 1 a : an imperfection that impairs worth or utility : SHORTCOMING *the grave defects in our foreign policy* b : an imperfection (as a vacancy or an unlike atom) in a crystal lattice 2 [Latin defectus] : a lack of something necessary for completeness, adequacy, or perfection : DEFICIENCY *a hearing defect*

The whole thing falls apart with the nature of the questionnaire. The logical rule is "you cannot predict the outcome of events that never occurred." It certainly didn't occur on your watch. They can't subpoena you to speculate, only to provide facts. "The truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth." The answer to the questionnaire is, "I don't know." Because it would depend on to many other unknowns. Tell the guy to go chase an ambulance.

Sure! Of course, his arrogance may prevent him from honoring such a bill. It's always best to explain fees up-front. But, if that turns out to be the case, at least he'll know which way the wind blows and won't be bugging you any more.

The attorney and the buyer are 'playing' you. The question you must answer to yourself is, "Do I want to be the 'middle man?'' If you answered yes, you may need to hire your own attorney. The transaction between you and the buyer has been fulfilled. You performed an inspection for xxx dollars and supplied a report offering your description of visually observed characteristics present at the time of the inspection. How can you be asked to speculate about conditions which were not present and not observed. That becomes a useless guess contingent upon, how much? where? how long? etc., etc. Lawyers get paid for everything they do. It's called 'billable hours.' You have a professional license to get PAID for your opinion! Don't let some two-bit, shyster, mail-order mouthpiece intimidate you into losing money. Lawyers job in a lawsuit is to find someone to blame and extract money from them, they don't care who that is!

Has anyone seen one of these before? Download Attachment: IMG-20120709-00015.jpg 207.28 KB Seems to be a smoke detector, so what is the smaller unit for? A radio interconnection perhaps (same unit in basement)? Pretty ugly each assembly had a separate cover. It wasn't hardwired so it wasn't suitable for the intended application (rental) and had no manufacturers marks or description.

Draft inducers were added when high effiency came into play. The gases from high efficiency heating equipment are not hot enough to create a good draft in a chimney. They designed the draft inducer to overcome this problem. They help draft the combustion gases out of the heating appliance and up the chimney. Without the inducer motor the heat would build up in the heating equipment and overheat which would cause the furnace or boiler to shut down on safety switches that are built in to the unit.

Chances are the fan itself is bad. It should be very quite while operating. I don't know what a "turbine" sound might mean to you, but if it is what I would call a rotating noise,perhaps a high pitch screeching the impeller is most likely hitting the case as it operates. While it is operating put your finger lightly on various places around the motor mounting screws or case. Do you feel a vibration in your finger. Replace the draft fan assembly.

Some are well spoken, others just well punctuated.

Thanks for the bulletin. My parents had one of these put in about four years ago. Thought it was uncalled for then, even more so now, but nobody asked me. Had occasion to check it out after the inspection the other day though. At 97 and 89 the last thing they need is for the toilet to explode! Click to Enlarge 39.64 KB Whew!