rkenney

I concur with others that a PRV is really needed, that water pressure is way to high. Here's the tag off my WH TPR. It says set for 150 psi so you would think all the seals and container would hold anything below that. If the true average tank pressure is above your one or two readings and the TPR setting you would expect it to leak there (TPR) first. Best course is to eliminate the pressure problem with a PRV and expansion tank. Click to Enlarge 79.51 KB

230.46 Spliced Conductors. Service-entrance conductors shall be permitted to be spliced or tapped in accordance with 110.14, 300.5(E), 300.13, and 300.15. 110.14 (B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an insulating device identified for the purpose. Wire connectors or splicing means installed on conductors for direct burial shall be listed for such use. Section 300 deals with underground cables, raceways and such. Main thing is it has to be an approved type splice (won't know without disassembly) and must be insulated as well or better than the SEC cables that are being spliced.

What's the point. Can't for the life of me see how this is any more efficient, economical or achieves any real purpose. So, the explanation i was really seeking is what purpose did it serve, the logic behind design as it were, and if it was any good (safe) why'd they stop building them this way.

Circa 1974 or thereabouts. Who has an explanation for this crazy wiring? Third double breaker on left side, identified only as 'Main' Click to Enlarge 74.43 KB Click to Enlarge 48.45 KB

For those of you who might have been looking for it under 309.1 of the 2012 IRC, it is here. R302.5.1 Opening protection. Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes sha11 not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb- core steel doors not less than 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing device.

How could you never have been issued a SS #? Unless you're not here legally.

Looks just like Claude Rains. Click to Enlarge 12.85 KB

Specifically: NEC 240-24 (D) Not in Vicinity of Easily Ignitible Material. Overcurrent devices shall not be located in the vicinity of easily ignitible material, such as in clothes closets.

How are you determining a 'bootleg' ground? Your tester looks like a simple 'wiggy' (solenoid tester). A wiggy can't determine a bootleg ground. As far as it is concerned the ground is the same as the neutral. You need a Sure Test or whatever Ampeg calls their device, even then if you're close to the panel it wll give false readings. At that point you will have to pull the receptacle to observe the actual wiring.

The bill that Charlie R. is referring to is MD HB-1413, SB-969. My read agrees with his that there does not appear to be any changes to Home Inspection reporting, but there are new disclosure statements for sellers.

A rather useless disambiguation. The question that naturally follows is, "Do rulers rule?" Quite a few didn't 'measure up,' but I don't think that an adequate answer. Like John K. we often got the ruler when we didn't follow the rules. Or a flying piece of chalk or eraser (they hurt). Then I graduated to the eighth grade we had a teacher called 'fish.' No he didn't look like one, he had a 'fish stick.' Nothing like the days of corporal punishment; what is the world coming to?

Click to Enlarge 38.48 KB One foot ( Lufkin No 69) or two ( Lufkin No 6518 ).

I don't think it would matter if it was required in '83. The fact that it was remodeled twice would require it at those points. 'Least that's how it is here. Bathrooms and kitchens require a permit. Unfortunately, here as elsewhere, many supposed home improvement types who do this work (even if they have a license) don't pull a permit and are fairly clueless when it comes to code - electrical or plumbing. I would suggest the client inquire about past permits. 'Flips' are usually notorious for this. Some counties here allow permit searches online. Any property, just type in an address.

Where's his Cat. 1 protective gear?

All of the replies to this thread so far have omitted one important detail. Simple physics reminds me that to have audible 'sound' there must be movement. Basically the magnetic fields created and collapsed and reversed 60 times a second minutely 'stretch' and 'shrink' the metal parts. This constant movement of parts relative to each other (rub) causes the noise. The transformer pictured (microwave) has a laminated core, each of the laminations expand and contract at slightly dissimilar rates. As the transformer ages more movement can occur creating more noise. Consider a transformer with riveted laminations instead of welded and core laminations with less stringent quality controls (thickness differences, metal impurities, etc.) and its easy to imagine greater movement between laminations and more 'buzz" from poor design or construction. So design and materials are certainly a major factors in minimizing the noise, but age and the physical rigors of operation and environment all contribute to transformer noise. And that's the rest of the story. Click to Enlarge 58.2 KB

What makes you think a neutral is shared? If it were, you need to consider what gauge wire is required for a 30 amp circuit (10). This is the wire gauge required for that neutral. The currents are additive because they share the same bus bar (1/2 phase). So the current in both circuits 'hot' wire could be just under trip threshold for the breaker (say 14 A each) then the total current in a shared neutral is 28 Amps. Ultimately it depends on how many devices are on each 'leg' of that breaker circuit. Beyond the scope of a home inspection.

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It is not yet law. Still floating around in committee. Has to pass in the senate, any revisions need to pass again in the house, has to be signed by the leprechaun. etc., etc. etc.

Install a pump.

Famous last words. For everyone that says that, there are at least 10 creative people who will screw it up. In the picture right above your post it's pretty obvious that there is not enough contact area on several of the breaker terminations. Others are done correctly (same breaker) and the top breaker has the other style with the hole to insert the wire. That's all you can see without being there.

Hack job. CH and SquareD that accept two conductors have a plate under the screw that the wires go UNDER. In your picture only the bottom two breakers show that, the four breakers above show the ends and the side of the wire. Looks to me like they weren't inserted properly.

Click to Enlarge 49.93 KB From an electrician's perspective diagonal wiring always draws attention. No clamp where it exits the wall.

Download Attachment: _GFCI_requirement_page-2011.pdf 19.13 KB

Sani Seal and Fernco both make rubber alternatives for the wax ring toilet seal. They come in a couple of different sizes depending on your needs. First you have to remove the toilet, fix the flange (needs to be rock solid stationary), and measure your drain pipe. Then head on over to your big box store and see what they have or look either up on the internet and see where it's locally available in the size your looking for. Click to Enlarge 85.91?KB Fernco Click to Enlarge 76.77?KB Sani Seal

Hard to identify a tree without seeing the foliage. Do the leaves look like this: Mimosa - big problem around here, grows anywhere like a weed self rooting. Category II Invasive