Jim Katen

If an AFCI fails to trip off when the test button is pressed, will it fail in an overload situation?

No one knows. But it doesn't inspire confidence.

Originally posted by patt

Wasn't thinking straight about the siphoning?

How would that protect against overflow? Do you mean overflow at the standpipe or at the washer?

At the washer, if the discharge valve was stuck open and water continued to try fill the bowl.

I don't think that any standpipe would guard against that, no matter what the height.

For fun I went to the GE site and they only mention 30" minimum, no maximum stated.

http://products.geappliances.com/ApplPr ... TWN4250DWS

NOTE: If drain hose facility

does not meet 30" minimum

height requirement, thread

drain hose through supplied

anti-siphon clip U and mount

to cabinet back as shown

Those are the abbreviated instructions for doofuses. Here's a full set of instructions, check out page 18, it say 96 inches, just like Maytag & Whirlpool:

https://www.ptsem.edu/uploadedFiles/Ope ... ctions.pdf

Just thinking, shouldn't the top of the standpipe be below the top of the washing bowl, for overflow protection?

If so, then there's no mention of it in the codes or in the manufacturers' installation instructions.

How would that protect against overflow? Do you mean overflow at the standpipe or at the washer?

So the trap might be above the washer?

Then you have to worry about siphoning.

I think they're doing it 1. for convenience, 2. Possibly there is standard for length of discharge hose.

The whole point of the standpipe is to provide an indirect waste receptor, which makes siphoning unlikely.

It would be much less convenient to have to install a sewage ejector.

Supplementary hoses are easily available.

They are trying to avoid this arrangement.

Click to Enlarge

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But that's precisely the situation that they should provide for so as to give an alternative to the mess in your picture.

Trap at:

6" + 30" = 36"

Trap at:

18" + 18" = 36"

I get that, but why?

What would be the harm in putting the top of a standpipe at 96" if the washer manufacturer allows it and it allows one to avoid installing a sewage ejector?

The UPC, Section 804.1 sez:

No trap for any clothes washer standpipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six inches and not more than eighteen inches above the floor.

Why do you suppose there's a maximum height of 18 inches?

Washing machine manufacturers all (nearly all?) allow their washers to be installed with standpipes up to 96 inches above the bottom of the washer. With a 30-inch standpipe, that would put the trap about 66 inches above the floor. If it's ok with the manufacturers, what problem is the UPC trying to address?

I'm thinking of basements where the sewer line might exit the basement at three or four feet above the floor.

Seems like I remember reading about these solo walls in bathrooms need to be ventilated in order to not get interior moisture damage. Is that true?

I've never heard that. If you find the source where you heard it, please pass it on.

FWIW, I've seen a lot of houses and apartments torn apart and I've never seen a particular problem with condensation in interior walls.

The builder was covering his bases to make the building attractive for a wide range of future users.

To my eye, the neutral looks the same size as the phase conductors. Optical illusion?

I think it's just to allow you to soak while sitting upright rather than supine.

The train shot is way cool. It almost looks like it was shot with film.

The tree picture reminds me of the stuff we used to do with infrared film.

I don't know the answers. Call State to find out.

I've got to do some serious reading up on 2 psi systems.

Would you be interested in presenting information on these systems at an OAHI meeting?

Call State. They probably make a suitable replacement.

100amp main breaker.

Probably a 125-amp panel as you supposed.

I couldn't say whether or not it was overloaded without looking at the loads.

What size was that main breaker?

The 100-amp breaker probably feeds a sub panel, not a branch circuit.

To find out of the panel is overloaded, you have to look at the loads, not the breakers.

If you look carefully at the first picture, the crack begins and ends in the middle of the concrete, with no other cracks radiating from it. The concrete had to have been plastic when that crack formed. I've had forms blow out during pours and as the mass of concrete starts to slump, it can create cracks just like that.

The span between the joists suggests something wasn't right with the builder. [:-magnify

Very common framing around here. 4x6 girders every four feet and car decking on top. It's a solid system.

That first picture looks like the concrete moved after it was placed, but before it set. Almost as if someone backed his truck into the forms after the pour.

Most of the damage seems to be in the built-up, double-thick sections. There were a lot of shingles that did this in the 90s and early 2000s but I haven't seen it in a while. If the fissures are really just limited to the thickened sections, it doesn't seem to cause performance problems.

I can't tell much else from your tiny little pictures.

Sorry the OP is confusing I guess. What you see is how many fell away and were mudded back by a sloppy practioner.

In that case, it's just a stupid design. In my area, a stairway like that wouldn't last anywhere near 40 years.

Acid cleans brick. Lots of acid erodes it. It doesn't smear schmutz all over the place.

Looks like leaching to me.

Orthodox?

I'll give it a try.

Hydrogen peroxide is better than bleach.

Really? Why? What concentration?