Jim Katen

That's a lot of problems for an 8-year old water heater. These things often run 15 years with no problems. Bad gas valves just happen sometimes. The expansion tank was probably not properly pre-pressurized. Corroded pipes and a rusted pan are signs of a larger problem. I'd want to know why they're in such bad shape after so little time in service before I started fixing things. 

6 hours ago, Denray said:

Trying to find why there's a leak around my dads Toto seat toilet. Touched the metal.braided supply line and it.was hot. Touched it again and for some reason it shocked me again. 

3

What happened the third and fourth times? 

I find it interesting that this old discussion should come up again given that the "hottest" new siding these days is burnt wood. 

http://charredwood.com/history-of-shou-sugi-ban-charred-wood-treatment/

I've had lots of customers who didn't attend the inspection and several who have never even seen the house. All of them provided me with a signed contract well in advance of the inspection. 

*Anyone* buying a house has already had to sign several documents before even calling for an inspection. They can manage to sign an inspection agreement as well. 

Thanks for the article, Stephanie. 

I've got to admit, though, that I'm kind of stunned that this kind of discussion is still going on in 2019. I can't even imagine running a home inspection business in the 21st century where I would not have an inspection agreement signed in advance. Who the heck are all of these inspectors who don't get this? Are they the same ones who are writing their reports on carbon paper? 

The only ASTM standard that I'm aware of is "ASTM C1173 Standard Specification for Flexible Transition Couplings for Underground Piping Systems"

That standard recognizes couplings with and without the stainless steel shear rings. I'm not aware of any code or standard that requires the rings. Certainly, in Oregon, the coupling in the original post photo would be considered correct for underground work. 

If a coupling like that fails underground it's because the pipes weren't properly supported in the trench. (Somebody over-excavated his trench and tried to support the pipe with fill.) To me this is a clear-cut installation error, not a product failure.

Start by replacing the thermocouple. That's why the pilot won't stay lit. 

If the house heat is working normally but the shower water gets cold too fast, it's probably a bad dip tube. 

3 hours ago, Denray said:

No worries about bad stuff growing in it during long term shut off?

I doubt that would be a problem over 2-3 weeks. 

Why bother turning it down or off? What are you saving, $4-$5? 

To what will these panels be affixed? 

Damn. Now I have to review my company's safety protocols for romaine lettuce. 

2 hours ago, KellyCondron said:

We want to eliminate the water issue and then finish off the basement so we can use it as living space.

I hear this all the time, and I always tell people that it's a bad idea. Here's why: You have a 1940s basement that was never designed and built to be waterproof. Attempting to make it waterproof now will suck a lot of money from your wallet, might or might not work, and could cause unforeseen consequences - such as damage to your foundation. It's a recipe for disappointment and unhappiness. 

My best advice: Align your expectations with the reality that you have a 1940s basement. Maintain your gutters and downspouts, direct all downspout water well away from the house, adjust the grade in your yard so that the soil slopes away from the house for at least 10', and finish your basement in such a way that occasional water entry won't damage any finishes.  

Hey, I did that show in college. 

On 1/28/2019 at 6:56 PM, mbraid said:

 

Personally I thinks all of the above phrases are in fact " cost estimates " and should be avoided.

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Well, I agree that all of those things are "cost estimates," but I also think it's critical that we provide a customer with some notion of the expense associated with these repairs. As you said, the first thing that they ask is, "how much?" The fact that everyone asks the same thing tells you something about what our customers need from us. 

If I don't know what something will cost, I say so. If I have a good idea of what it'll cost, I also say so. People have always appreciated this and no one has ever expressed the least dissatisfaction with my honest opinions. 

I'm still waiting to see the hard & fast legal requirement that forbids providing this information. No, the insurance company doesn't get to dictate it. Where's the enforcible law? If it's important, shouldn't it be easy to find? 

I think that flashing at the lintel would be fine. It's a rain screen system. We assume that water will run behind it; we want a way for the water to flow back out at the window opening, not above it. 

This is one rare circumstance where the ASHI Reporter article is correct.  

With Watts, it's easy. They print that information, almost verbatim, on the little yellow tag attached to every TPR valve. I usually just snap a picture of it. 

With Cash Acme, it's a bit harder. I wrote to them and they sent me a response, which I quote to anyone who cares. They gave me permission to share that response: 

Quote

 

Hello Mr. Katen,

 It is recommended that all drain line tube material be ¾” Type L or M copper water tube or ¾” Schedule 40 pipe.  If the heater has an input rating of 95,000 BTU/Hr or less, up to 30 ft of ¾” copper water tube or schedule 40 pipe with up to four ¾” elbows may be used.

 Properly supported CPVC may be used if permitted by the applicable codes and the CPVC tube manufacturer. Due to the smaller inside diameter, if CPVC is used, no more than 10 ft of ¾” CPVC and a single ¾” elbow can be used if the heater input is greater than 74,000 BTU/Hr but less than or equal to 95,000 BTU/Hr. If the heater has an input rating of 74,000 BTU/Hr or less, up to 30 ft of ¾” CPVC with up to four ¾” elbows may be used.

 If longer length run of pipe or more fittings are required, the drain line size can be increased (i.e., 1”, etc. near the valve outlet) to support the needed configuration.

 Let us know if you have any questions.

 Kind regards,

 

The next time they have a report writing seminar, ask them to try to find an instructor for whom English is not a second language and who doesn't advocate writing in pidgin. 

As for the estimates, I'd also like to see the part of the association standard that prohibits it. If your instructors have this much trouble writing clearly, perhaps they also have trouble reading clearly. The two frequently go together. 

I don't understand. You live in a rented home. Is the owner having this work done or are you having the work done? You say it's "family owned." Does that mean that *a* family owns it or does *your* family own it? Why are you taking apart work in a house that you don't own? Please explain what's actually happening here. 

I need a Dramamine. 

Was it located in a conditioned space? If it's in an unconditioned space, I'd seal the open unused plug (and the condensate line cleanout opening).  Otherwise, I wouldn't care. 

Was it set up as direct vent or non-direct vent? If it's a direct vent setup, I'd seal the unused openings at the burner compartment because only outdoor air is supposed to be there. In a non-direct vent setup, I wouldn't bother. 

It ain't goin' nowhere. 

One of the problems with that much wear in the joint is that the fully extended ladder wants to rock back & forth across its range of movement. Several years ago, someone posted a video of a guy who fell for exactly that reason. He had the ladder sticking up several feet above the edge of the roof and as he climbed it, he pushed forward on the top of the ladder, which caused the top to rock forward, the middle to rock out, and the bottom to pop out from under him. 

They don't carry the 13-footer, which is my favorite length. They also don't take online orders. 

For now, I'm fine with my Werners. But if I ever need another, I'll definitely give them a call. 

Look at the gal in the picture again. She's using it in an unequal step ladder mode. 

12 hours ago, John Kogel said:

Denny, wear a helmet. The rest of you Werners users, get a Jaws ladder. 

Seriously, I bought a Jaws from a retiring inspector, and it will never over extend like that. Also, the top section can easily be removed, making the ladder light and strong.

As far as I know, we can't buy Jaws ladders south of the border. I'd have to drive up to BC to pick one up. 

I've never owned a Little Giant, but neither of my Werners hyperextends like that. I'd stress test it and see whether or not that center joint is moving.