allseason

That's a great price for that. I have seen some old units, 20's and 30's restored for more than that. Some with 6 burners and double ovens for up to 12K.

I'm planning a kitchen reno on my 1883 Victorian farmhouse. I'm looking at ranges, propane fueled and want any feedback on Elmira's reliability. http://www.elmirastoveworks.com/ The alternative is an original stove updated. Any input in that direction also much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Likewise.Getting into the spirit even though it's almost 60 degrees and raining here in west central NJ.

He's using the plumber's old cutouts.

I hope he's in a better place. Condolences to all family and friends.

The company providing your professional liability insurance. E & O.

It does not matter. Your insurer will settle long before arbitration or litigation. Think about who writes contracts and who fights contracts, it is they who benefit.

I believe Kurt is correct. The tenent said that the upper t.stat was for the AC and the lower for the Heat. I told them it's wrong.

At a town house today with a 2013 Lennox cat I furnace with a/c on top. 2013 Lennox comp/cond. Two thermostats, one on the third floor, one on the second floor. I turn on the a/c on the third floor, get cold air on all three floors. While that's running I turn on the heat on the second floor thermostat, furnace lights up. No zone dampers, only one unit. I run outside and the comp/cond is running at the same time the burner is firing. Looks like multiple thermostat wires to the board. If one thermo. is hooked to the a/c and the other to the furnace can both run at one time? First time for me. I turned off both thermostats as that's where they were when I started.

Easy clean.

Dimensional

Pee Pee Trap

Treat for the termites first. I have four sisters, and four brothers, that's too many.

I keep a TIF at the bottom of my tool bag, the state of NJ requires such. I should check the batteries. If it smells...., you know the rest.

I did some homework. Two things that are needed: A trap & an air break. My feeling is that a check valve only needs a bad gasket and it's methane city.

Can a wash. mach. drain be directly connected to a waste line with only a check valve, mounted horizontally, no trap. Here's what the owner's plumber states: Looking at the picture of the washing machine drain connection you sent reminds us of your washing machine set up. Your drain connection is acceptable and was common in older homes where the piping conditions prevented the installation of a stand pipe. No trap is needed because the drain hose is connected directly to the drain piping of the house and no sewer gases can escape. There is a check valve on the drain connection and the check valve prevents water from backing up into the washing machine. The washing machine has been connected in this manner for many years and works fine. No repair or re-piping is needed. Thanks, Chris

So is my old neighbor. When I was looking for someone to yank my tank I first called the original abatement company that had filled the tank in 2000. He warned that it is possible that now the gravel inside the tank could be considered hazardous if it absorbed any oil residue that may have remained in the tank after he cleaned it. I had also talked to the head of the building dept. in town and he told me I would need no permits to remove the tank as it was signed off on thirteen years earlier. His words- You wouldn't need a permit to throw away and old wheelbarrow you found in your backyard. It's the same thing,scrap. My feeling, again, if I had a sign off from a licensed contractor for tank removal I was good in the eyes of a buyer, or their attorney. Around here I have had plenty of clients who won't even have the realtor slow down in front of a house with a UST in the ground, properly abandoned in ground or not. Better to face the music when time is on one's side than wait until you have a panicked buyer. On the attorney subject, I did once have a buyer who had knowledge of a tank that had been removed with all of the paperwork showing it was gone and all done properly. His attorney told him that he should do his own tank sweep in case there was another one somewhere on the property.

Kurt, That was the estimate for the first phase of clean up. I ends there or rises if the first load of soil failed to remove the contamination. It goes through the NJ DEP. Soil just keeps getting dug out until it's clean. One of my brother's had a leaky tank ca. 1970. The excavator had to go down 14' before they hit clean soil. He was fortunate that it leaked to the adjoining property, this allowed him to somehow put a claim in on his homeowner's. Here's a pic of my tank out of the ground. Click to Enlarge 73.59 KB

I will tell a short tale of UST removal here in Northern NJ. I had a tank ca. 1957, 550 ga. properly abandoned in 2000- Local muni. permits pulled, tank opened and cleaned, AHJ signs off. Tank is filled with pea gravel, left in the ground, permit approved, all good. My house to be sold 13 years later. My feeling is pull the tank 'cause it will scare buyers. The neighbor also has a tank, ca 1955, 1000 ga. Neighbors tank taken out of service approx. 2008. Sits for that time. We join forces to remove both tanks at the same time as they are under our adjoining, not shared, driveways. My tank comes out soiled at exterior, rusty, full of wet gravel inside. All good. No evidence of leaks. His tank, within a few feet of mine comes out. It has a hole the size of a dime. 50K to start the cleanup on his side. $0 for me.

There are areas where rust stains are present below the holes that leads me to the iron. When one of my brothers ran track in high school he ran on cinder covered tracks.

I was in a commercial/warehouse today, concrete block and brick. One section date unknown but the owner has been in business 70 yrs. The other half built in the 1970's. The block walls in the older section have a lot of small divets, most appear to be from the interior face of the block, not from fasteners or mechanical damage for the most part. I have seen in some old block where iron in the aggregate will rust and pop small spots. Any ideas? This side of the building was also the victim of a fire at some point, likely prior to the 1970's addition as that is unscathed. Could that have affected the block? Otherwise the walls are plumb and solid, very few cracks. Click to Enlarge 44.95 KB Click to Enlarge 48.91 KB

Right, when I sold my house last year the fire inspector noted that I had them installed, that's it. I had the fire ext. on the kitchen counter, Great he exclaimed. All of 30 seconds and $150 and he was off to the races.

At McSorleys Tavern in lower Manhattan they have urinals similar to that. Until 20 or so years ago there was only a single bathroom in the place. Better than that, I don't know if it's still there but a wooden trough was installed at the base of the bar which ran out to the street. That is what you call in old urinal.

In the movie they used chocolate syrup as the blood going down the drain. There's some dumb..s trivia, but now you'll think of it every time you watch the movie.

That's harsh. John, they are going to call someone for a Level II. The newer chimney at the rear of the house was only 30" tall over the roof as I measured. The chimney guy looked at it from the ground and said, Well, it's close, probably ok. That did not instill a lot of confidence in my clients as to anything else he said. I decided not to share any of my discoveries with him.