crusty

Bad flue configuration is the problem. The products of combustion appear to be cooling too fast and the resulting condensation in the flue pipes cause the efflorescing. Charlie said it all. T When joining 2 flue connectors 1) They must be on the same floor. 2) They must enter the flue as high as possible. 3) The flue size must increase in size to an area equal to the size of the larger + 1/2 the area of the smaller. What is a grow house? st

I'm not up to date Chris but you can find it here http://www.iccsafe.org/ Steve

[:-scared]

Steve: No doubt that sizing gas lines is beyond the scope of a normal home inspection however, learning about proper piping methods and a general knowledge of gas line sizing will help you spot potential problems such as an undersized feed for multiple appliances. This is what makes us professionals. I couldn't agree more Terrence. st

FWIW Chad. Unless you want to go through the exercise of sizing the gas pipes as a learning experience, there is enough wrong here to note the concerns and defer the entire 3 appliance installation citing the improper addition (no doubt performed without the benefit of permits and inspection) of the newer water heater. Sizing gas lines is well beyond the scope of a property inspection IMO. By the way. This looks like a garage installation and the big one appears to be sitting on the floor. That in itself is enough to defer the installation for further evaluation by a qualified licensed plumber. Steve

Chad, It looks like a jimmy rigged set up. If my eyes don't deceive me the flue connector for the 2 water heaters is too small (requires area of larger + 50% of smaller) It looks like 2-4"? At the juncture the flue connector needs to increase in size. I will also bet if the calcs are run the gas pipe is not properly sized either. It looks to me like they simply added the larger heater as an after thought utilizing the existing gas and flue piping. Is that a tin can in the flue connector? A union in the gas line? I would call it for the POS it is and defer the entire installation.

Both the IRC requires 6" slope away from the foundation in the first 10 ft., the UBC 6" in the first 6 ft. On a graded lot the top of foundation must be 12"+2% above the curb. The AHJ can override it though. New construction or not, if provisions are not made to get the wtaer away from the foundation, call it. It does not mateer if the AHJ approved it or not. A problem is a problem. The last new house I did was a total screw up. The builder set it 12" too low. It cost him $30K to provide adequate site drainage.

I can find no exceptions to allow this condition without a landing in the IRC. A landing is required anytime a door opens over a step. Steve

That's exactly the way I would picture it Danny. I didn't mean to imply below grade. The foundation needs to be wide enough to catch the stone at a point 6" or so above grade.

Yep, that's a fall down hazard for sure.

The stone is improperly installed. It needs to be supported by the foundation.

Michael was my instructor when I went through ITA. I have known him for years and respect his opinions without question. If he opines, I agree, automatic. Thanks Kurt.

I have always operated under the premises "if it stinks, it's probably rotten." This looks problematic to me. My gut tells me that these two vent terminations will interfere with each other. They serve 2 different factory built fireplaces, one of which now has gas logs installed. I can find nothing in the materials I have or any code reference that addresses this but I keep thinking one may interfere with the draft from the other. If it were just smoke the problem would be apparent but we are dealing with a gas appliance as well. Of course the installation manual was not present. Help? Download Attachment: 141_4156.JPG 43.86 KB

As a home inspector your job is not to diagnose. We are generalists. I too include aplliances but do not diagnose or repair them unless the problem is obvious. The comment generally goes "The oven was not working at the time of the inspection. It did not respond to the controls. Recommend further evaluation by a qualified repair technician. Replacement may be more cost effective than repair." The more you diagnose the greater your liability, especially if you are not or are only marginally capable. I would not waste my time becoming an appliance repairman unless that is your goal but instead would focus on the training that would make me a better home inspector. Think of it as observing, reporting and deferring to an appropriate specialist. We work for the client to determine the condition of things.

Is that filter on the side the return air inlet? Is this a category IV appliance? Never mind. I assume electric judging from the hot water heater. I'm not used to seeing those out here. I'll butt out now. Manufacturer's specs would rule. The door is most likely big enough to allow sufficient return air. 25% of the area of a wood louvered door is the rule of thumb for combustion air. Functionally it should apply here too for the return volume.

Is this a rolling castle?

Thanks Scott. Good Stuff. Here is a web link that may also be helpful. http://www.eima.com/

You wanna get advice You gotta pay the price

This was a rather rich environment. I recommended further evaluation by a horticultiurist. Looks like plants from Mars to me. Download Attachment: 112_1261.JPG 83.1 KB

4th

If the manual is present I will look at it. It rarely is and I recommend for a review of the manual to ensure backflow protection or replacement. But it sounds like you are talking about the old fashioned spray with the thumb lever? Little chance with those but there are a lot of extendo kitchen faucets out there without backflow protection, most manufactured before the code change required backflow protection.

I think Mike is right. Ever since the big orange box took control of the lumber market it's gotten worse and worse. Here's a thought. Green wet lumber. Wet climate. Cement based sding that the humidity has little effect on. The house is framed with the moisture laden materials in the wet climate. In the rain. The siding is applied. The lumber in said house shrinks as it drys. The siding of course does not, being cement based. Voila', buckling. It should be most noticeable on longer runs. The gaps will still be there because the siding has little movement on its own. The wood is shrinking underneath it.

Was the inspection by any chance in the morning?

We work a lot cheaper than a hit man[:-bigeyes] BTW Konrad, roof pics always read better from the top side []