crusty

HMMMM, I think I'll treat my old one nicer now.

If I were buying a new one it would be the 61-155. The combination arc fault/GFCI circuit analyzer. It will measure ground impedence and detect false grounds as well as voltage drop. I've have the predecessor for about 6 years and love it.

OK, "UNCLE". How can a "level" pad be sloped for drainage?

LOL, thanks for the observation Mike. That wasn't from by comment library. Way too complicated for me too. I borrowed it from a friend's recent post on another BB.

I'm not smart enough to know and have a short attention span for theory. What I do know and have often witnessed is that the draft is affected by the uneven heating, be it faster or slower and condensation with the associated efflorescence has an adverse deteriorating effect on the flue and often the appliance Brian. Flames on the insulation is of little or no concern.

I commonly see a piece of sheet metal with a round hole or thimble isolating the vent from the drywall and any type surround to prevent the insulation from coming in contact, much like what the insulators used around unrated can lights or even wood blocking. I'll try to get a pic of one the next time I see it.

Sorry Brian, confusing verbiage, it's a relative thing within the length of the flue. This says it better. "Any insulation against the exterior flue creates an insulated section of the metal flue that does not heat in the same even rate as the metal sections not in contact with insulation. The B-vent appliance exhaust draft is inconsistent at that section with insulation against it and the draft of combustion gases swirls becoming trapped by the uneven temperatures. The products of combustion must change composition in order for the lighter gases to continue to rise. The heavier materials do not rise as readily. Water vapor is very heavy and easily comes out of suspension forming moisture that condenses on the cooler B-vent sections. Moisture condenses on the cooler vent and rolls back toward the B-vent appliance damaging the condensing fan, vent or worse the heat exchanger."

Double or single wall, contact is a no-no. The insulation in contact with the vent will cause draft problems due to the fact that it will cool the gases and prevent them from discharging properly.

[:-bigeyes

Our legacy UBC requires it and only allows 6 ft of flex as does the IRC I believe (sorry too lazy to check it.) One problematic area worth noting is backwards installation where lint can start collecting at the joints. The male ends should be pointing downstream.

I'm obviously running a few months behind and totally agree with you Jim. An article Douglas just provided for our CREIA Inspector magazine noted old style on the shelves as late as April in our area. Like I said I am obviously slow in changing my ways. For years I've been running into houses placed on the market where the standard is to have the listing agent's handyman install shiny new 3 prong devices and cover plates to match the new white carpet and newly painted walls, obviously without pulling an equipment grounding conductor. IMO this was a huge hazard and I was a total wiring Nazi a$$h0le in making the calls. Regardless of NEC I always recommend(ed) that at a minimum they put 2 prong outlest back in. Now I think I'll go edit my comment library. thanks st

Good point Jim, but I also generally point out to people that the need for grounding outlets has diminished considerably since our colleges started cranking lawyers out like popcorn from a kettle. If the appliance in use is manufactured with a 2 prong plug, there is no need for a grounded receptacle to serve it. IMO 2 prong outlets are still a viable alternative in most rooms in a house where few appliances are ever used with 3 prong plugs. The point I like to stress to my clients is that if the appliance has 3 prongs it needs to be grounded and my personal opinion is that ungrounded GFCI's do not provide the same protection. I know it is NEC approved but I personally don't like it. I like to see 3 wires. The latest estimate from Dan Friedman is that there may be as many as 56 million miswired GFCI outlet in use right now that do not shut down the power when tripped, giving consumers a false sense of security. I would prefer to take my chances with restoration to 2 prong devices where there is no ground wire. I prefer to recommended adding one or two properly grounded outlets in each bedroom dining room or living room since houses of that vintage are usually pretty short on available outlets. Of course I also recommend abandoning antique services and the K&T wiring but I would hate to place my money on that happening. San Mateo County CA was still using K&T into the sixties I believe. IMO the real issue is a false sense of security caused by thinking the outlets are grounded when indeed they are not and Friedman believes there is a 19 in 100 chance that the same problem exists with the old style GFCI's. Of course as I think about it the supply of old style GFCI's should now be depleted and the new improved models should make GFCI installations by the agents' handymen foolproof I should most likely and very gladly change my tune. Thanks, st

This is extremely problematic and most likely the root of your problem. Single wall pipe in contact with anything will radically cool and prevent proper drafting.

I do not recommend the practice. They are unsafe and not allowable. I always recommend that they be rewired with an approved equipment grounding conection or properly replaced with 2 prong devices or GFCI protected.

Not this system but I run into dry laid CMU foundations in the Bay area fairly often and have yet to find a problem with one. And this is an area where 1 out of 5 houses I inspect has significant foundation cracking. For my money you can't beat properly filled and re-enforced CMU walls, dry laid or otherwise.

There is a clearance issue between the separation wall and the tub/shower if I am reading this right.

Darren, there is no maximum vertical rise that I am aware of. That 10 ft dimension you see in Code Check is for comparison of the horizontal run to the vertical rise, not a maximum. Single wall horizontal run (>45 degrees from vertical) cannot exceed 75% of the rise. For B type vent the horizontal can equal 100% of the vertical. The horizontal must have a minimum 1/4" per ft rise. There are many code issues of importance concerning gas and oil appliance venting this being only one of them.

Not sure what code you are under Konrad but FWIW: 2000 IRC P2603.5 Pipes through footings or foundation walls. Any pipe that passes under a footing or through a foundation wall shall be provided with a relieving arch; or there shall be built into the masonry wall a pipe sleeve two pipe sizes greater than the pipe passing through. (from 2003 but not changed from 2000) From 2000 UPC (but not changed from 1997) 313.0 Protection of Piping, Materials, and Structures 313.1 All piping passing under or through walls shall be protected from breakage. All piping passing through or under cinders or other corrosive materials shall be protected from external corrosion in an approved manner. Approved provisions shall be made for expansion of hot water piping. Voids around piping passing through concrete floors on the ground shall be appropriately sealed. 313.2 All piping in connection with a plumbing system shall be so installed that piping or connections will not be subject to undue strains or stresses, and provisions shall be made for expansion, contraction, and structural settlement. No piping shall be directly embedded in concrete or masonry. No structural member shall be seriously weakened or impaired by cutting, notching or otherwise, as defined in the Building Code. Out here the builder would most likely still be on the hook.

One of the fastest ways to break into the profession, after training, is to work for a multi inspector firm. While you won't get all the money the volume should put you well ahead of the game and the added experience of doing more inspections in a shorter time period is invaluable. This is a very difficult business to break into but can be very rewarding once that is accomplished. I started on my own and it took over a year to become self sufficient, and that was years ago when the competition was about 20% what it is today.

Interesting site: http://www.doctorfungus.org/mycoses/env ... htm#toxins

60 what???

Would not "adding a bar" rob the panel of it's UL rating and be in direct opposition to the NEC?

I would strongly recommend that you apply a continuous moisture barrier, no matter what siding product you use.

As will all allergies.

From a personal liability standpoint the odds are hugely in your favor if you err on the side of caution and safety.