Paul MacLean

I think it might be interesting when the T&P opens under pressure and blows that scalding water back into the AC coil. I don't know what would happen, but I can't think of anything good.

I won't be attending the ASHI conference this year. Florida is not one of my favorite destination spots (I know, I can be strange). Besides I'm going to retire in six months or so, and am rapidly developing a short timers attitude. If anybody wants to buy my business, it's listed at http://www.vrnorthaustin.com/area-listings.asp

If you can see all of the roof surface from the ground, maybe binocs will work on metal or tile roofs, but with comp shingle being 95% of the roofs here, I don't see how you can judge the wear of the shingles without getting on them. Tiny pits and cracks just aren't visible from the ground and those cracks and pits tell me the shingle's days are numbered. I walk every comp shingle roof I can. Of course walking roofs is a 365 day sport in central Texas. If there's white stuff on the ground we stay home! [:-smile_g

I've said this before, but around here a can't get on a two story roof with anything less then a 24' ladder. I have the carry an extension ladder. The Little Giant, Cosco, etc. ain't long enough. [:-cry]

We have post-tension slabs everywhere here, and I've never seen an exposed cable end that looks like that. Of course, if it's post-tension slab you should not see the cable ends.

In Central Texas, I tell'em galvanized and cast iron last about 50 years. Which means in this area they have generally reached the end of their expected life. A warning about the possibility expensive repairs is reported.

Could it be the termination of a floor drain; perhaps from a second floor laundry room. I see floor drains occasionally, but they're usually PVC.

Texas SOP calls it a "disposer." I've used the term so long I don't even think "disposal" any more. Of course I still ask for a Kleenex and Coke.

My thinking is like Terry's. It's my understanding that the unit should be sized to run continuously on the hottest degree days and still maintain an acceptable indoor air temperature. That should get the humidity out of the air as Terry says. Also a unit running continuously is more energy efficient than one cycling on and off. That's my contribution to inspector folklore. Another thing - my contract says that I don't do design calculations. So I just report the size and let the buyer figure it out. I might say some verbally if it looks way off, but I don't write it down.

Excellent point! If all outlets in the bedroom have to be AFCI protected by current code, what about the panel. Could it be an ignition source? Inquiring minds want to know? I generally don't worry about panels in bedrooms in older construction. No AFCI's there anyway. Edit...Mike responded while I was typing. Still an excellent question.

Interesting..... I almost never see off brand breakers in a panel, even on older stuff. And when I do there are plenty of other issues that should get a sparkys attention. So I add it to the list.

The termination of the condensate drain should be visible. A buried pipe is an invitation to a clogged condensate drain and unwanted use of the secondary drain. Most of them will run along side the condensing unit pad and dump the water there...at least that's what I hope to see. In truth, most on them have been whacked off by a lawn mower and terminate too close to the house. In new construction most HVAC systems are in the attic with the condensate drain at a bathroom sink as described earlier.

Around here a primary condensate drain to the exterior should terminate at least 5' away from the foundation. One dripping at the edge of the slab is conducive for termites and I would write it up as such. It is also creating a constant wet area next to the slab in a drought when the rest of the ground is dry. This is not good in expansive clay soils.

Brian, If you have a copy of the Residential Asphalt Roofing Manual from the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association you'll find it in the middle of the book (page 31 in my old copy) under "Starter Strip." "...The starter strip protects the roof by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles. It should overhang the eaves and rake edges by 1/4 to 3/4 inch."

That's the way primary condensate drain from the attic is generally handled in Central Texas. It is fed into a bathroom sink drain above the trap as shown. The secondary drain usually crosses the attic and exits through the soffit above a window or some other conspicuous place.

Texas SOP requires us to call out any GFCI's not up to current standards as "in need of repair." However AFCI's are not mentioned in the standards. I call out AFCI's if they are not in bedrooms in houses built after 2002 when they where first required, otherwise I ignore them. As far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out regarding AFCI's. As a side note, I recently replaced my 1977 FPE panel with a new Cutler Hammer service panel. With the updated panel the AHJ in Austin insisted on AFCI's for the bedroom circuits. We put them in to get code approval, but the circuits covered other receptacles like a hallway, and not every bedroom outlet was on the AFCI. The circuits weren't run like they are today. Also, my wife's treadmill is in compatible with AFCI breakers and repeatedly caused it to trip. I finally replaced that AFCI breaker with a regular breaker...no more trip problems.

The situation here in Central Texas is like that described by Scott and Mike.

A great illustration of why I haven't done reinspections for years. I tell them to get receipts and warranties. The repair person is responsible for his work.

A fourth skill...you've got to be able to write. Without a well written, understandable report all the other skills are useless. And learn to avoid "inspector speak."

Around here all of the above is done in new construction. No PVC, T&P routed downhill to an exterior termination 6-inches above the ground with a pan under the water heater. Many older installations don't include all that stuff and I write'em up.

Here's my stab at it: 1. A cartrige filter with a leaking case and the broken pressure valve in #4 was on it. Looks like time for a new filter set up. 2. DE filter. If that's a AC condensing unit behind it, they are way to close together. 3. Sand filter.

I've used a 24' aluminum Werner without a problem for 5 years now. I'm 5' 11', 180 lbs and slightly balance impaired. The 24' is all I can handle safely, and it gets me on 90% of the two story roofs around here. And just as importantly, I'm not afraid to tell the client that "this roof is too steep for me to walk on safely."

Yesterday at completed new construction, I tested the kitchen GFCI circuits with my 3-light tested and everything appeared OK. So I plugged my laptop into a GFCI receptacle and proceeded to do the inspection. When I was finished I plugged my portable printer into a receptacle protected by the GFCI my laptop was plugged into. What!!! The printer has no power and won't turn on. I double check all the connections and everything seemed OK. So I checked the outlet again with the 3-light tester and it tells me the circuit is still hot and OK. It trips the GFCI on command. Hummmm. OK. Let's plug the printer into the refrigerator receptacle. Lo and behold! The printer works. There must be something wrong with the GFCI and/or circuit. I pull out the SureTest and plug it into the suspect receptacle and the GFCI trips instantly without touching the GFCI test button. I then repeated the same process on another receptacle on the same GFCI circuit. Again the GFCI tripped instantly without help from the test button. I am totally befuddled. I recommended that an electrician replace the GFCI and test all receptacles on the circuit as a repair. Do any of you electrical wizards have a clue? I don't. I anxiously await your comments. Thanks!

Precisely why I don't do reinspections! I tell'em to use licensed, qualified people and get receipts, warranties, etc. The repair person is responsible for his work and he just bought all the liability. When I was doing reinspections a proper repair was a thing of wonder. It almost never happened.

Around here (no really hard freezes to worry about) that valley would most likely have been galvanized metal. Those shingles are a roof leak.