Paul MacLean

BIA is more restrictive than code when it comes to weep holes. I have found it easier to live with the code's 33", but I include a link to the BIA web site in my reports for the buyer's information.

From the 2000 IRC - R703.7.6 Weepholes. Weepholes shall be provided in the outside wythe of masonry walls at a maximum spacing of 33 inches (838 mm) on center. Weepholes shall not be less than 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) in diameter. Weepholes shall be located immediately above the flashing.

Weeps are correctly done on only 5 or 10% of brick veneer homes in Central Texas. A few builders are starting to get them right on new homes, but even then improperly spaced/located weeps are common. I always write them up, and when asked if they can be added, I say "No, the brick has to be removed to installed proper flashing and weep holes." I agree with Kurt. 30 or 40 year old houses without weeps and no visible problems aren't likely to develop future problems. But I still write'em up. FWIW, my 30 years brick veneer home has no weeps and I'm not losing any sleep.

In old houses (40s and earlier) I frequently see 2x4 rafters and other strange framing. If it looks original and is performing, I simply report what I see and state it doesn't meet current standards, but has withstood the test of time. I'm not about to recommend an engineer or repairs on something that has been working for over 60 years.

I think I can count on electronic storage systems to change, so I keep hard copies of everything for seven years. Everything older goes into the recycle bin. I have been using a computer for six years, and the last few years reports are on a removable memory stick. I can get a year's reports on one stick. I don't claim to be a computer guru.

Donald, when did you start walking Austin roofs? That tree damage looks familiar. Brian, I'm jealous! You have such a way with words. [:-boggled

Charlie, in the interest of helping the industry and one of the best electrical minds around, I sent my old FPE panels to Douglas Hansen. I paid the freight, about $50. I did ask Douglas if he wanted them first and he provided an address. The satisfaction came when Douglas emailed me his thanks and a couple photos of my old panels mounted on a wall being used as a teaching prop.

Bad typo! [:-dunce] It's been a hell of a lot longer than 10 tears.[:-crazy]

1906 in Austin. Pretty much a dump. The electric system consisted of Knob & Tube with a single wire hanging in the center of each room serving a bare light bulb. That's it. No other electrical service. That was about 10 tears ago. I don't know if it's still there. It should have been a tear down.

Beautiful! But I'll bet the roof leaks. Frank is known for his leaking roofs. Still that is great architecture...

Around here I see lots of factory built wood burning fireplaces that have had ceramic gas log sets installed in them. With the gas logs, the damper should be blocked open. What you're describing sounds to me like someone but a gas log set in a wood burning factory built fireplace, then decided to take it out, but didn't remove the gas log set guts. If you're unsure, you can always recommend an NFPA 211, Level II inspection for any solid fuel burning fireplace. NFPA recommends the Level II inspection any time a house is sold and the recommendation is part of my boilerplate.

When I find one broken seal, boiler plate automatically goes into my report stating that I might have missed some fogged windows and that they should have the glass company check every window in the house. Just covering my arse.

I've heard this before, but have never run across it personally. I think the safe and wise thing to do in a vacant house is is run the hot water at the kitchen faucets awhile before starting the dishwasher. Hopefully that will dissipate any accumulated gas.

It might function as a trap, but it's not going to be self-cleaning.

That return air chase doesn't appear to be sealed. It looks like return air is coming from through wall cavities and all kinds of places that might deliver who knows what. There are more problems than the gas piping and wiring.

If you're not aware of Mike Crow, I'd be surprised. Anyway you can check out your competition at: http://www.mikecrow.com/

A two year old sample of my on-site report can be viewed on my web site www.newdayinspections.com. Click on sample report on the first page. My report meets Texas SOP reporting format and has no pictures. I'm a believer in the KISS principle.

FWIW I've been testing garage door openers with the 2x4 method Mike describes for a decade or more and have had only one mishap that I agreed to help pay for, and it wasn't my fault. The opener motor kept running after the door hit the 2x4 and ground up the plastic gears in the case. If opener fails in the 2x4 test, it fails with the door in the closed position and it's almost impossible for the door to fall and damage anything. When you catch the door in mid-travel, that's when it can jump the track and fall. Use the 2x4 test as Mike outlined. It works.

Since I went to computerized reports about 6 years ago, I have always printed and delivered my report on site. I guess this was a natural evolution from delivering handwritten reports on site for the previous 10 years. I strongly urge the buyer to be at the inspection and I ask him to review my printed report while I finish up other chores like a WDI report or lawn sprinkler inspection. I use the buyer to help me catch errors and it also lets me know whether or not he understands the report. It is rare for me to think of something I missed later, but if I do I just email any additions to the buyer. I do ask most buyers if they want an email copy in addition to the printed copy they reviewed and many appreciate the electronic copy. I email it ASAP upon returning to the office. Out-of-town and absent buyers get emailed reports within an hour or two of my returning to the office. It really feels good to be finished with the inspection and reporting when I leave the job site.

Around here November was a record month. It actually was stronger than July for me. But the bottom has fallen out in December. I'm not going to do half the business I did in November. The real estate market can do some strange things, but I've learned not to worry about it. The phone will ring again.

About a year ago I replaced my FPE main service panel and a small garage FPE subpanel in Austin for $1400 (1800 Sq Ft townhome). When I'm asked by clients, generally I quote the range Mike did. I'd rather be a too high than too low.

R30 is recommended for attics here in Central Texas. Assuming the R30 is uniformly and properly installed, the cost of additional insulation might have a long payback. If it takes 10 years to recover the cost of additional insulation in energy savings, it might not be worth adding more insulation. Just food for thought...

You guys are more ambitious then I am. I'd tell them to have an electrician solve the problem. There's only so much searching I will do before I punt.

Richard, I recently had the same experience you did...extremely hot water at what looked like normal water heater controls settings. I tried to adjust the setting by turning it up to "Very Hot" and the burner would not light indicating a problem with the control. I reported the scalding water and recommended repair. Unfortunately I did not record the brand of water heater.

The candy business would be easier to sell and I need therapy. [:-crazy] There's also a home inspection business for sale in there somewhere.[:-party]