Paul MacLean

If you have E&O insurance, you might contact your carrier and ask if they can recommend a local attorney. I found the attorney handling an E&O case I was involved in to be an excellent resource...for a fee of course. Paul in Austin

Gag me with a spoon![:-sick] Paul in Austin

This is not from UL and is dated, but it supports the idea that the Purple wire-nut is not the ulimate solution. Also years ago I had an email from a CPSC engineer saying that Ideal's Purple wire nut should be used for temporary repairs only. Unfortunately I can't find that email now. Download Attachment: Ideal Purple Wire Nuts.doc 24.55 KB Paul in Austin

In Central Texas condensing units are never secured to the pad. And I have never seen a resulting problem. Paul in Austin

It looks like the entrance cable is aluminum and the corrosion looks like the battery cables in my truck. I'm don't know the cause, but would sure recommend a sparky clean it up and (if aluminum) use some anti-oxidant paste. Note: I had to put a new battery in the truck...maybe I should look under the hood once in a while.

George, I had good results using http://www.deadlock.com/ for my web site hosting, design work and promotion. The main guy is in Great Britain, but email communication was not a problem. Now that I have retired and my web site is off the web, I'm willing to share this.[:-angel] I thought the fees were reasonable and about 50% of my business came through my web site. Paul in Austin

NO!

I picked up a two wire tester at the big box store that indicates 120v or 240v when inserted in a receptacle. I don't recall the proper name, but it tells me if the 240v clothes dryer outlet is actually 240v or if the strange looking wall receptacle is 120v or 240v -- usually installed for a window AC unit. I find it very useful.

I have seen lots of large live oaks (1 to 3 feet diameter) next to slab foundations, and many were there when the house was built. Apparent foundation damage from these trees is rare; roof and fascia damage is another story. Anyway, I have heard it said that the tree is looking for moisture and nourishment and there is very little of either under the slab. Therefore the tree roots don't grow under the slab foundation and no damage results. I'm not an arborist, but it makes sense to me. Another consideration is that the tree sucks a tremendous amount of moisture from the soil daily. If the tree is removed soil moisture conditions are dramically altered, and in Central Texas expansive clay soils, that can result in heaving clay soils that will damage a slab foundation. In my reports, I always commented on the tree and the possibility of damage to the house (roof and fascia), but I never recommended removing the tree. If the buyer was concerned, I'd pass the buck to a structural engineer and an arborist and let them fight it out. The arborist always said save the tree; the engineer would worry about future damage, but was usually hesitant to recommend changes because nobody knew what the result might be. Around here a large oak on the lot, even next to the house, is worth thousands in appraised valve.

When I retired, one year tail coverage for my claims made E&O with Business Risk Partners cost about $3300 or one years premium. Considering the $5000 deductible, that means I won't break even unless a claim exceeds $8300. Still, I bought it. Mostly because the wife sleeps better and I share a bed with her. [:-timebm]

T1-11 was first developed as a siding pattern by the Douglas Fir Plywood Association, now APA (http://www.apawood.org/index.cfm). It was very popular when I was an APA field rep back in the late '60s, and may date from the late '50s. It is still being produced today. I have it on my house and replacement panels are available. The real T1-11 is not Masonite, but Masonite probably has a similar siding panel design. If you really need to know, you can ask APA at their web site.

I'm with Kurt. I can't remember seeing strange breakers in a panel in Central Texas.

The average home around here is about $265,000. Austin has been the highest priced market in Texas, but is still cheap compared to California, Florida and others. I do inspections regularly for California investors buying our "cheap" real estate. While other areas of the country are cooling off, things are still going strong here. We didn't get hot as fast as other places.

I agree. My BBA degree helped me get a job, but the only useful course was Business Letter Writing. I did learn something useful there. The one intangible thing college does for you, if your lucky, is teach you to think. I matured a lot in college and learned about life. All the things Katen mentioned are useful too.[:-wiltel]

I received a BBA in Industrial Management in 1964. I'm not recommending the degree, but I have long maintained the most useful course in that degree program was Business Letter Writing. I'll second the nod toward writing courses. Texas A&M has a Building Construction department that produces some useful courses. That Department has been the source of some good continuing education courses approved for inspectors in Texas.

I wouldn't get up-tight about it as long as it's plugged into a GFCI receptacle. Is there a switch in the system or is the plug the switch? Having said that, my contract disclaims any landscape lighting. The disclaimer's really intended for low voltage stuff, but I'd invoke it if something came up.

I received the same email. Refineries and distributors sell gasoline to all oil company service stations, major and minor. If you stop buying at Exxon/Mobil and buy at brand X instead, the refinery is still selling the same amount of gasoline and refinery prices will be unaffected. Your boycott may effect Exxon/Mobil stations, but it won't effect the price of gas. This is yet another internet hoax. It won't work.

Hello kids,[] I was 50 before I did my first inspection. I turned 65 in November and I plan to do my last inspection in May and start collecting a SS check. I'll tell you made me feel I was getting old - when my daughter turned 40 over a year ago. Ouch!

I think Richard's list is a good one, too. Years ago I did a few presentations for the new agents in a large office. I emphasized getting the house ready for inspection with suggestions like replacing burnt out bulbs, broken glass and window screens. Accessibility for items like the attic, water heater, electric panels, etc. was also stressed. I also had suggestions on how to select a good inspector (of course I qualified). These presentations were well received and I got a few inspections from them.

Down here all new water heaters are FVIR types and they still install them 18" above the garage floor. It's such a simple thing to put them on a stand, everyone has continued to do so. I like it.

Brian, looking at life from this side (65) I wouldn't want to be 23 again. I've learned a thing or two since then. [:-taped]

I was supposed to get paid at closing a number of years ago. The deal got to closing, all the papers were signed, but the buyer (a real estate agent) refused to fund the deal. Obviously without funding, the deal fell apart. When I asked the title company where my check was, I was told there wasn't enough earnest money to go around and I was at the bottom of the pecking order. I never got paid. Today my policy is cash or check at the time of inspection. No exceptions. No payment, no report. I may not get paid for an inspection, but no one is getting a report either.

Jeff, I had a termite swarm literally hit me in the face last week. In 16 years of inspecting, this was the first actual swarm I've seen.

Spring? What's that? It's supposed to be 92 here on Easter Sunday.[:-boggled In fact we really didn't have a Winter. Last freeze was back in November.

I can't see any difference between, say, two layers of 3/8" OSB of plywood and one layer of 3/4". In fact the R valve of the 3/4" decking will be better than the 3/8" as Mike pointed out. If I remember correctly from my APA days, 3/4" of plywood provides the same thermal insulation as about 10" of brick. Go for it.