Norm

I started to answer when I realized the topic was "Old Home Inspections" not Old Home Inspectors. Sorry. NORM SAGE

Brian, I don't see the battery compartment. NORM SAGE

For awhile some were touting the use of zinc strips which were installed every so many (I don't remember how many) courses. Someone noticed the area downslope from the lead plumbing vent stack flashing was free of algae. By process and elimination they settled on zinc as the component of the flashing which was responsible. NORM SAGE

Donald, Since I am a lefty it was a hook. NORM SAGE

I used to use a golf ball to sound ceramic floor tiles and marble. One day I missed the center of the tile and hit the slightly raised edge of the tile instead. The ball went off at a sharp angle and almost shattered an priceless heirloom sitting on a nearby coffee table. I now use a wood broom stick. NORM SAGE

Gerry, Please email me the safe access code so I can take the exam. Thanks, NORM SAGE email address: homeinspections2000@yahoo.com

Mark is absolutely correct so what's new?. As to the deck it appears to be what we refer to as an over-pour. That is when the deck and would be coping are a single pour. We commonly see this when the deck is stamped concrete. In this case it appears flagstone was installed over the concrete. This type of deck has lost it's popularity due to the fact that the cracks you saw enevitably occur. In the usual installation the cold joint between the coping and concrete deck serve as a natural control joint or crack. The resulting crack is symmetrical and usually goes unnoticed unless differential settlement occurs. How did I do Mark? NORM SAGE

Sorry I forgot to address the answers. Photo #1. is a crack in the pool bond beam. This as well as Photo #2 is indication of a major structural defect. The cost to repair is +/- $5,000.00. Photo #3 is the same pool with a garden hose present. This pool shell was leaking. Photo #4 is a horizontal crack in the pool shell approximately 8" below the bottom of the tile. This defect was repaired by routing out the crack and filling it with hydrolic cement at a cost of approximately $800.00. Photo #5 is a horizontal and vertical creck in the pool plaster which was routed out and filled with hydrolic cement at a cost of $1,200.00. Sorry for the delay. NORM SAGE

Yeh man! NORM SAGE

Donald, At my age 10 minutes with the sign holder could be fatal. Oh well, if she dies she dies!!! NORM SAGE

This will probably interest those of you who have swimming pools more than those who inspect them. Many years ago I acquired a really neat gadget which, as you can see, is easily installed, difficult to maintain, and fun to play with. The key to proper operation of this equipment is not to turn the control knobs too abruptly doing so could cause it to malfunction. Once you familiarize yourself with its various functions, took me about 25 years, it will indicate the following: 1. When its time to check the chemicals, 2. When the water is too cold, 3. When the pool needs to be vacuumed, 4. When you need to add water, 5. When the filter needs to be cleaned, 6. When to turn on the underwater light, 7. When you're splashing too much causing water loss, and 8. When you are allowed to use the pool. This gadget is powered by repeated "YES DEARs". Download Attachment: 012THEBOSS.JPG 1420.9 KB NORM SAGE

How about a philosophical note for those who choose to remain anonymous? "One should keep his words both soft and tender, because tomorrow he may have to eat them". I don't believe I posted that!! Maybe I should listen to myself once and a while. NORM SAGE

5th. NORM SAGE

Some time ago Donald asked if cracks in the skimmer housing must be sealed. First it is important to understand that 90% of pool water leaks originate at either the skimmer or the light niche. Skimmer housings are constructed of plastic and are subject to cracks due to the stress imposed upon them by surrounding materials, temperature variations, settlement, and damage during construction of the pool. When cracks become evident they must be sealed. Failure to do so will result in water loss and resultant high utility costs. If the crack is substantial in size washout may occur resulting in pool deck settlement and cracks in the concrete. There are various commercially available materials which are capable of sealing most skimmer housing cracks. In cases where the crack has extended into or transferred to the piping below the pool deck may have to be jackhammered in order to remove and replace the housing. Fortunately, this is usually not the case. Skimmer cracks are fairly easy to locate using a flourescent dye available at most swimming pool supply outlets. If I've left out anything please let me know. NORM SAGE

Back from oblivion. Here are the cracks some of you requested. Which indicate substantial structural failure and which can be easily repaired? Take a shot at the method of repair and the cost factor. Download Attachment: Crack One.jpg 260.84 KB Download Attachment: Crack Two.jpg 180.2 KB Download Attachment: Crack Three.jpg 153.32 KB Download Attachment: Crack Four.jpg 209.67 KB Download Attachment: Crack Five.jpg 238.17 KB Enjoy, NORM SAGE

What a bunch of chickens. Two years ago I fell off a 40' ladder. Not a scratch or bruise and I'm 65. Of course I was 63 then. NORM SAGE

Mike, The site you are looking for is http://www.floridabuilding.org NORM SAGE

I never put checks in the mail. I send them via FAX. Also works well with cash. NORM SAGE

Donald, I believe I have the photos you are requesting. If I don't, the condition is so common, I will have them by the end of the week. NORM SAGE

ANSWERS 1. While this may vary geographically, the standard Florida realestate contract excludes screening and classifies it as cosemetic. Needless to say I report small holes in screens let alone major damage (as in the photo) as functional defects. I am not a party to the contract. 2. The pool contractor's electrician double lugged the main in order to feed a subpanel. This is, however, not your run of the mill double lugging. The service to this house is underground. The service lateral runs to the meter. From the meter the service conductors enter the main disconnect box and are routed up to the main breaker. As you can see the double lugging has been done on the line side of the main breaker rather than the load side. This results in no overcurrent protection for the conductors between the main and the subpanel 3. Brian you are correct. Whenever I see a hose laying on the pool deck I suspect the possibility of a pool shell leak and recommend further investigation by a leak detection firm. 4. Danny and Donald you're correct. This is the pool pump motor service switch. The weatherproof cover is missing. 5. This a split bolt connector being utilized to connect two bond conductors. Split bolt connectors are brass and may be used to attach two bond conductors to each other or one conductor to the pool shell rebar. The head of the bolt portion is embossed with the rating of the device. In the photo below the small one is labeled 16-6, the medium one 18-8, and the large one 4/0. They can be used to connect two conductors whose size range is within the listed rating on the bolt. In no case may the size of the largest conductor exceed the largest number embossed on the bolt. Download Attachment: Split Bold Connector.jpg 32.09 KB 6. Danny, Donald, And Brian you're correct. There is no visable bond wire to the steel column. There may, however, be one below the surface of the deck. The only way to be sure is to run a continuity test between a visably bonded piece of equipment and the column. NORM SAGE

Thanks Brian, I found it and it does make it clearer. NORM SAGE

Would you call this a functional defect? Don't be too sure. Download Attachment: Functional Defect.jpg 188.07 KB The swimming pool and sub-panel were installed long after the home was completed. Download Attachment: pool added after construction.jpg 169.35 KB How would you report this? Download Attachment: red flag.jpg 160.33 KB What's wrong here? Download Attachment: service switch.jpg 114.4 KB What conditions must be satisfied in order to use this devise? Download Attachment: split bolt connector.jpg 204.42 KB What's missing? How do you confirm it? Download Attachment: steel column four feet from pool.jpg 182.96 KB Next week extremely costly defects. NORM SAGE

The atmospheric relief lines were, for the most part, a requirement mandated by local authorities. Here in Palm Beach County they were required prior to antivortex drain covers. The Florida Building Code requires the relief lines even with antivortex covers. I don't test these lines. I do note in the report if they are not installed. As to the location of the line termination it can be anywhere. The most common location is at the pool equipment, however, I have seen them in locations totally remote to the equipment. I've never seen a relief line retrofitted but I'm sure it is possible to do so. NORM SAGE

Donald, for a non-guru you're pretty good. Photo #1 is a homeowners attempt to correct the non-bonded pool pump motor. All he did was create a second ground. The motor was already grounded via the panel. It's still not bonded. As to the requirement for bonding all electrical equipment associated with pool water circulation, all metal structures larger than 4" within 5' of the normal water level which includes metal window and sliding glass door frames, gutter downspouts, fences, pool shell structural steel, railings, ladders, slides, diving boards, and non electrical equipment within 5' of the normal water level must be bonded to achieve a common grid. Photo #2 This is a 1.5" PVC line which is installed in order to dewater the system. This line terminates at the well point which is located in the gravel bed below the deep end of the pool. When the pool needs to be emptied for acid washing, re-plastering, or other service a pump is attached to this pipe in order to drain the ground water below the pool shell to prevent the shell from popping (see photo in previous installment). When not in use it can be capped or left uncapped. Photo #4 Capped 2" PVC pipe and Photo #5 2" uncapped PVC pipe. These are atmospheric relief lines. Their purpose is to provide a secondary method to release an individual or object which has become entrapped at one of the suction devices such as the main drain or pool vacuum port. Theoretically, if an individual or object becomes entrapped the pipe will draw in enough air to cause the pump to loose it's prime within 1-3 seconds and release the poor sucker. I use the word "sucker" because there was an individual who had his male member entrapped in the vacuum port of a motel swimming pool in NW Florida a couple of years ago. This made great reading in the local news papers. The fool who capped the pipe in photo #3 obviously negated the function of the safety devise. I report this as an "absence of the safety vacuum release system". Photos 5 and 6 are two types of main drain covers. #5, although difficult to visualize, is an antivortex cover. The openings are more in a vertical plane than it appears in the photo. This makes it difficult, unless you are proportioned like Mike O, to encoumpass the entire cover and become entrapped. Photo #6 os the old style, now outlawed in Fl., which is flat and easily allows entrappment. Photo #7 is, as Donald said, a pump motor which is rusted out and requires repalcement. Photo #8 is a time clock, again Donald was correct, which is missing the plastic electrical protector. See attached photo of the almost correct installation and the absolute correct installation of the above. Download Attachment: 039PEPSTOREDABOVE.JPG 183.04 KB Download Attachment: 037PEPINPLACE.JPG 161.3 KB NORM SAGE

Donald, As familiar with swimming pools and spas as I am neither I, nor my inspectors, test the various valves associated with the system unless they are clearly identified as to their function. The reason for this is that there is no standard for installing said valves. If you don't know the function of the individual valves and go ahead and adjust them you may find yourself in deep trouble. Depending on the installation, if you move the wrong valve out of sequence, you may cause permanent damage to the system. I tell my clients to have either the homeowner or swimming pool service contractor, who is taking care of the pool, to walk him/her through the operation of the system. There is no published document which you can read that will detail the installation and inspection of the systems valve operation. In short, stay away from it. NORM SAGE