MMustola

I have been an ASHI member since 1993 an I am very proud of that. The educational opportunities at the National and chapter levels are the best out there. When I was first starting out many old guard members gave me help, advise, and encouragement. When I became a certified member I was very proud of the achievement because it meant something. I did not look canndidate status as being a second class citizen, I looked at it a stepping stone. Too many people just want to pay a fee an get a credential. I do not see anything wrong with a multi-tier system. If being a candidate is so bad, people should work harder to become a member. The hardest part when you are new is completing 250 inspection I know that this takes time. That is what makes ASHI membership stand apart from other organizations. When I get shoppers on the phone asking why they should chose me instead of someone else it's easy to explain the difference between ASHI, other organizations, and inspectors who join no organizations.

Could you smell propane, is that why you went looking for a leak? How many of you guys use a combustible gas detector and check gas line joints, valves, and fittings for leaks? Even if I smell gas I don't bother to try and find the leak. I document the fact that I could smell gas or propane and recommend that they have the gas company or a heating contractor locate and fix the leak. Consumers Energy only recognizes leaks if they bubble up with soap and if it bubbles with soap you will be able to smell it.

I agree with Kurt. I use my nose. If I can smell gas theres a problem. When I was first starting out I used a TIF 8800. That tool was worthless.

I use ASHI's preferred provider Moneris. They provided me with a V terminal. At the inspection all I do is write down the CC number and expiration date. At home it takes less than a minute to key the number, date, and charge amount into the terminal. It very easy. I looked into a cell phone based CC scanner but at the time is was $1,200.00.

That is really funny. I wonder how many people looked at that from design to finish and no one caught it. Or maybe they don't like their neighbor.

Another issue to consider, where does the floor drain drain too? In my area basement floor drains almost never drain into the sewer system. They Drain to sump pits which pump up into the storm sewer system or just drain to the back yard.

A new panel was installed about 3 feet away from the original panel. The old panel was used as a junction box to extend all the branch circuits into the new panel. I know that this is not a problem. Only the hots and neutrals were spliced and extended to the new panel. The grounds still terminated in the old panel. I recommended that the grounds be extended into the new panel as well. The city inspector was called out to look at it and he thinks the grounding is fine. I looked through the IRC and can not find a reference that would apply. Can any one help me. if I'm wrong fine.

From what I can see in the picture that panel is correct. It is a sub panel because it is in a manufactured home. The main panel with a main disconnect should be outside at the meter. The grounding buss bar should be bonding to the panel box. from the picture I can't tell if it is.

If the copper pipes are already bonded as per code, and the pump motor is bonded through the plug in cord, then why does the motor to be bonded to the pipes?

As a follow up to my original post I intended up buying a copy of PDF Converter 4 by ScanSoft. I am very happy with it. It will convert any file format to PDF. Also It is very easy to drag and drop many different files of different file types and combine them into one file.

Drywall is just the most common way to separate rooms. The code does not say what material to use just that you can not draw combustioin air from those prohibited locations. When the client asks, what should I do to fix it? I tell them to drywall wall it. If the water heater was a sealed combustion unit getting all air from outside the building than it would be allowed in a bedroom closest.

The wall must be drywalled. It is code. Check out chapter 24 of the IRC section G2406 appliance location. As a side note, does the room in question have the proper egress for a bedroom? If not I would advise the client that the room should not be used as a bedroom.

Les, For the most part I agree with you. Although I do see myself as the clients advocate as far as giving them technical advise. Using the floor furnace as an example, I would tell them the age and condition of the furnace but I would also tell them that modern houses have heat sources in each room, that house will not heat evenly, that they can not have central air with this system, and when it time to replace the furnace they should think about upgrading to a ducted system. You are 100% right in saying an inspector should not given any advise concerning what he should ask the seller to do. It's proper to say "I recommend that this whatever be replaced" It is not ok to say " I recommend that you have the seller replace it or reduce the price of the house". There are many inspectors that go to far and it gets them in trouble.

You know Jim, I have sited chapter 17 many times to clients, sellers, and even builders and have never been corrected. I was confused when you made your statement so I went back and read it again and of course you are right. Chapter 17 only applies to liquiud and solid fuel-burning appliances.

You can not draw cumbustion air for the water heater ot the furnace from a bathroom. The code does not specify half or full bath. Look in the IRC chapter 17 combustion air, section M1701.4 prohibited sources. I would write it up as an improper location for a bathroom and recommend that they remove the toilet and sink.

I do not comment on sceens at all. In my Inspectiion Agreement I list screens as an exclusion. In 14 years I have never had a complaint or issue regarding window screens.

If the doors are left open would smoke back draft into the house? It the fire place getting combustion air from the outside or from the house? It sounds to me that It may not be venting properly. Have you checked the flue for partial blockage?

I believe the intent of the code is to give full support to the butt end of the rafter. I agree that is is not common to see cracks. Also, it's not a fair comparsion to judge want may happen with today's wood by looking at old houses with old growth wood. If you have to tell a client why the ridge board needs to be repaired I think explaining that the rafter may crack if not properly supported is an accruate statement. Do you disaggree?

If they are not supported properly they may crack over time.

Can anyone recommend a good software package that would allow me to merge different files together into one PDF file. Is there anything free that can be downloaded that is good. Is Adobe the best route to take? My gaol is is to merge the inspecton report, contract, and house photo's together. These are currently all different formats.

Les, I have a 10 year old copy of 3D home architect by broderbund complete with manuals. It's yours if you want it. Will you be at the Frb Sig meeting in Livonis?

A few years ago Michigan passed a new law let would let let any adult without a felony convection carry a concealed weapon. All you need do do is take a class and apply for the permit. I do not have one because I don't feel the need. I have turned down a few inspections from the North side of Flint for safety reasons. If I need a gun to go into a certin area I would rather not go there.

Les, Thanks for the generous offer. I will take you up on it after the first of the year when you get back from the national convention and have some time. Steven, I sent you a PM but did not hear back for you. Maybe you just have not been on the board in a few days. I would like the contact information for your friend who wrote the book.

A couple of times I have had a potential client call and say something Like "I bought a home and it has a lot of stuff wrong and my attorney said the first thing I should do is get a home inspection". Under this example would you conduct a standard home Inspection? The client may have a list of complaints but may not know all that is wrong with the house. How detailed would this type of report be? For example if there was a problem with the vinyl siding would you at this time site code references and installation specs from VSI or would you save that level of detail for depositions.

I hoping to get some questions answered from some of you experts regarding expert witness work. Who is normally your client, an attorney or an individual? On your initial inspection of the property are your reports more thorough than they would be for a pre-purchase inspection? I am asking this because I seems that the report would need a lot of references to back up your opinion. With a pre-purchase inspection it is fine to say, this is wrong because of this and I recommend that you have it repaired. How much more detail do you include in expert witness reports? How much more time do you spend on reports for this type of work verses pre-purchase home inspections. Does anyone have an agreement they would be willing to let me look at?