Marc

No problem that I know of, just ugly. It may have resulted when a new service panel was installed next to the old one, leaving some slack in the service drop. Sparky didn't want to shorten them while still live. I've done it several times...when I was younger.

Amazon?

That writeup on pier/beam offset is enough to tell me that the bigger issue is actually your inspector. An inspector's writing helps reveal his performance as inspector. What Les said. I'm a gonna buckle up my seat belt now.

Makes sense. That generator is rated 7.5 amps steady-state. The blower on my 3 ton Rheem is 8.6 amps FLA.

That's an excellent choice of generator. I'm saving for the EU 3000 myself for my travel trailer. I suspect most good generators don't automatically ground the neutral because it isn't known if the RV, or whatever you connect it to, is also grounded. Two separate grounding points introduce neutral currents into the ground wire, which is to be avoided. Look at the schematic that came with the generator. If it doesn't show a bonding point between neutral and ground, ground it yourself and see if the furnace works.

I spend a lot more time on recreational vehicle FB pages than I do here. Lots of appliances and power filtering devices will give trouble if your power plant isn't grounded. It's all the new electronics. Check if your power plant is already grounded. If it isn't, you need to do it somewhere on your premises wiring. Just be absolutely sure that it isn't grounded twice.

The ignition card on the old 80 may not have had the polarity sensing feature of the 95+.

I assume this is a gas-fueled furnace. Grounding and correct polarity of the incoming power is vital in order for ignition to function. The ignition card will detect if the polarity is incorrect and fail the ignition every time.

Good to hear.

Where was the flame sensor wire routed to on the old card?

Good. How are you heating your house?

My wholesaler has the means, at his terminal, to identify any other cards that can replace the defective card. He can be quite resourceful. The complexity of such control cards goes far beyond the available connections on it.

I'll get back to you.

I don't see where the manufacturer says it's compatible with part# 62-22737-08. As a serviceman, I'd never chance it. I couldn't find one elsewhere. I could talk to my wholesaler on Monday if you'd like, to see if any of his locations have that card.

SEC is the secondary winding of the 24 volt transformer, which supplies the card with 24 volts AC. You should be able to trace those two wires to a small transformer somewhere within the furnace. Something else to remember. On the card, if the 120 volt supply coming into the furnace from the receptacle is connected backward, everything will work fine but the ignition will try and always fail to ignite. The card knows if the neutral and 120 VAC connections are backward and will fail the ignition.

No. There are two control cables coming in. The small one with just two wires being used is from the outdoor section of your AC system. Heat pumps will use a third wire for the reversing valve. Not everyone uses the same colors on that cable. Just connect one to 'C' (common/neutral) and the other to yellow (Y) unless you have a heat pump. Those two-wire thermostat cables often don't have a yellow wire in them so folks choose something else, usually Blue. The larger cable is from the thermostat. The colors matter on this cable. Green (G) turns on the blower. Yellow (Y) turns on the AC compressor. White (W) turns on the heater. 'C' is the neutral connection for the 24 volt supply. The live wire that brings 24 volts to the thermostat seems to be the red wire on your card, which is common. These is the standard color code but I caution you to do two things before you turn the power on for the first time: Take the cover off of your thermostat and make sure the colors at each connections are the same on both thermostat and control card in the furnace. The other thing is to send me a clear photo so I can confirm as well as possible that it's correct.

Yes, sure. New card has upgrades on it but compatibility is still there. If you need help deciphering what goes where, let me know.

The foil is toast. Carbonized card may allow stray current to develop. $165 for a new one. https://www.amazon.com/62-22737-08-ClimaTek-Upgraded-Furnace-Control/dp/B09JL2YQRR/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=Cj0KCQiA1NebBhDDARIsAANiDD2NRLa4vgeibxWlQaUmidIhLDkR81QgzCPjyavHLrsvPEajk9BhD3oaAsVlEALw_wcB&hvadid=580591955914&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9025248&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3665575770981191627&hvtargid=kwd-301033047569&hydadcr=6253_13189158&keywords=62-22737-08&qid=1668736600&sr=8-2

Do you have a photo of the part number?

The damage includes the board itself. I'll betcha the printed circuits on the reverse side are damaged also. You need a new board. The part number is on the board, along the perimeter somewhere. Type 'furnace control card #__________' into your search engine. It's how wholesalers find parts themselves sometimes. Take a photo of the entire card before you begin disconnecting it. It may save you a headache when you put the new one in.

Rheem doesn't disclose the internal circuitry of their control cards. They expect that field diagnosis will end once confirmed to the card as a whole. If you think it's the resistor, take a good close up photo of it. If the colors are still discernible, I'll tell you the resistance and wattage and you can get one at any Radio Shack. As Rheem/Ruud serviceman since the 80's, I seriously doubt that resister is where the issue began. When they begin overheating, the middle lightens to a light brown color (towards the color of thoroughly combusted ash). It doesn't necessarily mean they're bad, they might be just overheated, damaged or simply very old. You said 'burnt around the same resistors'. That happens often in old cards in the area of resisters more than 1/2 watt in size. It's just the card itself that's burned.

I find it odd that elevated mold spores were found more than once within the conditioned spaces of the house and nothing was done to locate the source and remediate it. I suspect your issue is far more simple than you make it out to be.

I think that's the rake flashing you're looking at. Grainy photo.

3/4" is about right if there's no drip edge, otherwise 1/2". But this is nothing compared to what was previously discussed. The roofer figures his knowledge of roofing exceeds your own by a great enough margin that he can simply bluff his way right through you. Stand your ground.

I hope you're not in a high wind area. That void will catch the wind, especially on a gable wall. The factory adhesive strip is the first defense against failure under condition of high wind and if the shingles don't lay flat, that adhesive cannot bond. By how much do the shingles extend beyond the rake flashing?