Charlie R

Condo unit in Columbia built 1972, bought and now flipped. When I pointed out the writing on the back of the receptacle, the owner asked the question in the subject line. I said "no." And then "Tell the flipper to get a licensed electrician in before he burns the condo building down." Second picture is really fuzzy but shows the connections he made between the aluminum and the pig-tailed copper inside the panel. It was a secondary panel (primary was at the meter with the main breaker) and was wired wrong. Owner kept saying "but the guy knows what he's doing, everyone here uses him." Client will probably walk. Glad I don't live out West, I might end up in that "Deal-Breaker" column. [] Click to Enlarge 34.13 KB Click to Enlarge 35.28 KB Click to Enlarge 44.36 KB

Yes.

Thanks Douglas

Thanks Jim, that's what I was looking for.

I have brain-lock, what year did the say that you weren't supposed to use staples on asphalt three tabs? I'm looking at a roof that was supposedly replaced in 2002 but I think only some of it was replaced and most of it is the original 1988 roof with staples.

We are all wrong some times, I know I have been. My wife says I'm rarely right! It's one of the ways in how we learn.

If you look at the first photo posted, the manufacturer states no bigger than a 25 amp breaker. or fuse Just above that is a line that says the minimum ampacity is 14.4. This means you can use a 25 amp breaker with #14 awg because #14 can be used with up to 15 amps. The stated ampacity is what determines the wire size, not the breaker. As far as I know (and I stand ready to be corrected) it may be the only exception to the NEC rules, and it's ok with the NEC. If you can't find a 25 amp breaker, a lot of installers put 25 amp cartridge fuses in the exterior disconnect box. Yes, you can use #12 awg or #10 awg with this as you can always have a larger than required conductor but it is more than what is required. Of course, I agree with you, using larger than required is good, at least in wiring. Also, yes, I think experience means a heck of a lot, but just because someone has done something the same way for 20 years doesn't make it right. And I just went to Home Depot, on the shelf were a GE, a Square D, and an Eaton 25 amp two pole breaker, highest price was 16.80. (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... c=1&Ntpr=1) If you need one, I'll buy it and ship it to you for a small surcharge.

I call it, but don't make a big deal out of it. Just always make sure that there aren't the correct size cartridge fuses in the disconnect box.

Very impressive, I like it.

No sarcasm intended, just a sincere thanks. As for odd, yep, it was odd. This is the second one I have found this year. Probably just a coincidence, but both were Cape Cods, both built in the 30's. Not really near each other, about 50 miles apart.

Thanks for the guidance, Bain, always appreciated. I'll keep that in mind next time.

From the fireplace looking up you could see the end of the metal oil vent sticking into the fireplace flue, so just one shared flue. Couldn't get the camera past the damper to get a decent picture. Cap at the top is no longer able to help shed water so the water soaks into the bricks, freezes in the winter, breaks the bricks loose or breaks the bricks, This one had loose bricks. Rear roof wasn't too steep, that's where I went up. Click to Enlarge 55.81 KB Click to Enlarge 56.16 KB

Inspected a 1932 Cape Cod today. Walked the roof, looked down the single clay flue. Went in the home, checked out the oil fired boiler. Then went in the first floor living room and there's a fireplace. Now wait a minute - one oil boiler vent + one fireplace flue should have equaled two vents. Hard to believe the chimney sweep or the HVAC contractor never saw it. Click to Enlarge 51.7 KB Click to Enlarge 44.09 KB Click to Enlarge 54.22 KB

I saw the skin hanging from the pipes/joist first, then I saw the shiny black movement. Saw three in this basement. Advised client that there were snakes in the home, I recommended installing a mongoose. Click to Enlarge 48.76 KB Click to Enlarge 35.46 KB

Learned something new today with this, Thanks.

Good luck, and thanks for your input. Don't be a stranger.

re-bong? Hmmmm

So John, how are the "paws" working out? Charlie

Good call John.

Hi Anatol; If I am correct about this, a J-Channel is simply a termination point to put the end of the vinyl siding. The windows in the photo have a fairly large channel area where the siding ends, and as long as there is a flashing behind the vinyl at the window, then it becomes a matter of aesthetics. I've called this out a couple of years ago on some new constructs (Ryan Homes) and had two different siding contractors that I respect tell me it's ok. Again, there has to be flashing, but it appears the window in your photo has that feature as a built-in. Charlie

Thanks!

No turning of cut-offs, and it's stated in the SOP which I give them. (Except every great once in a while when no one is looking

I've only seen one case where they poured over the existing, and then the whole mess continued to sink. Might make some saw cuts and then try mud-jacking, probably just as cheap to crack it all out and replace. My own sidewalk got undermined by the "oh, don't bother the cute little chipmunks!" and now I'm looking at the same issue.

See a lot of town homes built in the late 70's here in Maryland like Kevin stated, no flashing, just bigger and bigger trim boards with huge amounts of cheap caulk. Soon as you see the wood paneling on the outside, you know you have issues.

If the mouse was smart enough to turn the breaker off, proves it had to be a Mrs., Mr Mouse would say "Breaker? Who needs a stinking breaker---"