Charlie R

I have 4 Fenix lights - and all of the tailcap switches have gone bad. I've dealt with where I bought the lights and I can't buy the tailcap switch, I have to send the light back and the tailcap switch is replaced for free but it takes 6 weeks or more. Next light will be an O-Light.

I used the 12.5 Extend & Climb for 4 years, sold it to a termite inspector who wanted it, bought another one but rated for 300 lbs. had it about 2 years. I've had no problems, felt perfectly safe. Go into most attic hatches, up on one-story roofs. Nice to take up on the roof to get up to the chimney top or to lay on that steep roof and use to get up to the peak (as long as the feet are on something) Also carry the Werner multi-positional MT-26 for 2 story roofs, again the 300 lb rating. I think a lot of people use the cheaper ladders with 225 and 250 lb ratings, but I'd rather have too much rating than not enough. Fell once, that was enough!

What issue do you think would be involved with this installation, other than aesthetics? The radon tube is sealed, as is the fan. The fan will not create any air turbulence so it will not interfere with the venting process. The vent can still vent.

Thanks!

I did an inspection in Finksburg Maryland a couple of weeks age. There was an old barn on stone foundation walls that I told them I believed would cost far more to save than tear down. The client e-mailed me and asked if I know anyone who might want to take it down for free to get the old barn wood. Anyone know anyone? Any of you Pennsylvania inspectors? Thanks, Charlie

Tortoise shell?

Sometimes I see the same thing as John - old Baltimore home with brick now exposed that was at one time covered with plaster. Most time the brick has nothing, but sometimes the bricks (and mortar joints) have a clear coat of some type of shellac or varnish. What do you think that sealing the brick will do to the brick over time?

Dead bugs.

Thanks Gentlemen.

I inspected a ranch style home yesterday that had Chromalox radiant ceiling heat. Home was built in 1966 and I believe this is the original heating system. The current owner had added a split system A/C. Each habitable room had it's own thermostat, and all of the ceilings heated up. Other than some cracking in the ceilings from the expansion and contraction, I didn't find anything else wrong but I don't really have much info in the old memory banks on this system so I am asking if anyone can point me to anything that my client should know? I searched the CSPC website and didn't find any recalls, searched the archives here and didn't see anything. I've e-mailed Chromalox but probably won't get an answer for a few days. Any and all help appreciated.

Looks like an old Rheem, 48,000 BTU, 1981?

I've seen a couple of renovations of 100 year old row homes in Baltimore where they used the mini-split heat pumps - the one had 5 interior zones. As far as I could see they worked quite well. The homes originally had gas or oil fired boilers with no A/C units.

You are correct, no tandems allowed. Panel is labeled 20 pole max (and it is also indicated by the model number), I count 26

Just because it is intended to serve the other room doesn't mean some person wouldn't use it to power their crock pot or whatever on the counter so at least point it out as a safety concern that is probably not backed up by code.

You open the cap on the inside when you run the bath exhaust fan to get make-up air. Or not.

See it here occasionally , biggest issues I see are usually with the Zurn fittings, some of which were recalled, and if it got nicked by anyone during construction which creates a weak spot.

What Erby said, two lines out of the top, one is for the flow out (with a check-valve) and the other is a vent that should always be a dry vent I would think. Flow in is under the slab.

Looks like moisture intrusion from some source, possible that the windows are not flashed correctly given the wood trim deterioration and this interior damage. Have to open a wall up to see more.

I just don't think geothermal makes sense around here due to the installation cost, but a heat pump with gas furnace back up does. As you say, the average cold temp here in Maryland isn't really all that cold. JMHO

Usually it's 40 psf. Here are Baltimore, Carroll, and Howard Counties specs - all give directions for using Ledger Lok or similar. The Howard one is real prescriptive. If you read through them they reference the 40 psf live load. I know this is boring to anyone not in Maryland, my apologies, but you may want to check the latest in your own locales. It is my understanding that the Fairfax County Virginia specs are a model for many places, and I have included those, they have a lot of very specific info on using screws such as Ledger-Lok. Download Attachment: BaltCountyDeck.pdf 199.5 KB Download Attachment: Carroll decks.pdf 283.22 KB Download Attachment: Howard Decks.pdf 962.84 KB Download Attachment: Fairfax Deck.pdf 1293.96 KB

Checked in for the latest on a couple of other counties in Maryland (Howard & Carroll) and their specs for ledger attachment say "For other approved attachment such as LedgerLok: Fastener shall be 7? oc staggered up to 12? joist span, 5? oc over 12?." I believe your picture indicates the need for more fasteners.

Download the Baltimore County deck specs, they state "House band board - use minimum 1/2" carriage stagger bolted 16" or minimum 2 Ledger Locks 16" on center." I think the rest of the Maryland counties are the same but they haven't updated their on-line specs to say that yet. I know I've seen it in Carroll and Anne Arundel.

Thanks Marc, that's pretty much what I do, I was just curious if there is a specific temperature above which manufacturers recommend you don't use the heat mode, and why.

What do you do with a heat pump, same rule? Don't run in cooling mode under 60-65, what about a limit for running in the heat mode?

I used to just pull a few that looked new or newer, but I started making it part of my procedure about 2 years ago to pull at least two (usually a receptacle and a switch) on any system using aluminum. The aluminum has been in there 40 years or so now and is getting brittle so you have to be really careful. I have had wires snap off.