Charlie R

I was doing an inspection on a rather large home for my client who happens to be a judge on a Maryland court. The owner of the home thought I had spent enough time and basically said that "her agent told her it would only be a couple of hours and I had already been there three hours, now that is enough!" Before I could react, my client, in the very best court room voice, said "The home inspector will take as much time as he needs, with no interference, is that understood?" Owner looked at me and I just pointed to my client and kept on working. Loved it.

I offer a pool inspection to the ASHI Pool Standards as a separate inspection/cost, similar to radon being a separate test, but only if I am also doing the home inspection. I get 4 - 5 a year. Pool has to up and running.

I use a similar statement but end with "Budget to replace."

Buy it.

Good one Erby, thanks for the chuckle.

Last year was my best in the past seven, this years pace is just about the same as last year month by month. I am booked out about seven - eight days in advance so I have to turn down the ones that need it done tomorrow. I don't work Sundays and I've stopped doing evenings. I'll do evenings again when the weather gets too hot to walk roofs in the afternoon. I book two a day, that's all this old boy can handle.

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

1886 farmhouse with stone foundation wall and wood joists, basement is obviously not a conditioned space. Someone spray-foamed the basement ceiling/underside of the first floor. Joist were original wood from 1886 I think, flooring appeared to be old floor boards where I could get a peek. I advised the client to get an opinion from a licensed insulation contractor because I thought they may have created a condensation issue which could rot the joists. Did I send my client on a wild-goose chase or am I right to be concerned on this one? Thanks (and yes, there was plenty of other stuff to report!)) Click to Enlarge 55.32 KB Click to Enlarge 57.12 KB Click to Enlarge 60.01 KB Click to Enlarge 60.01 KB Click to Enlarge 45.25 KB

I just got a new Surveymaster (Protimeter BLD5364 SURVEYMASTER Basic Kit) it does both - it has the surface "bulge" and then it has pins. So far I really like it. Got it from HIessentials.

I know this is drifting, but which moisture meter do people use? I'm thinking of getting a new one, would appreciate any input.

As everyone is saying, find the source of the moisture and get that stopped first, then clean up the mold. Here is a link that I find helpful on why just testing for mold doesn't really do you any good - http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/i ... dtest.html

When I first got into this business, an old inspector told me to do every inspection "like a lawyer was looking over your shoulder." Remembering that has always reminded me to mention things in my inspection reports that seem small but could have come back to bite.

I've never had any problems with them.

maybe this has been around for a while, but I just saw it. http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=E3mzhvMgrLE&NR=1; Wouldn't test with my finger

I use a Mac for my home computer, but I'm looking for a touch screen with at least one USB port to do inspections. I would go with the IPad, but it doesn't have any ports so if you are in a dead zone with no Internet access, you can't transfer any info. MacBook Air has ports but doesn't have touch screen. Only products running Windows have both touch screen and ports. Looks like I'll stick with what I have for now. Thanks, as always, for all the input.

It has been a couple of months since the original post - is anyone using a Surface for inspections? I looked at them in the store and am tempted. I would get the Surface Pro, 128 GB. Any feedback? Thanks.

When did I say I do anything without a signed contract?

I know some lenders here in Maryland have been requiring they get a copy of the inspection report for years, and then they dictate what needs to be repaired. The clients usually call me for a reinspection because the lender wants something from me saying the items have been repaired. I charge for the reinspection, give my client a reinspection report. Some lenders provide their own version of an inspection form and want me to fill that out. I do, but I charge for that and write on their form that I don't accept any liability for anything because it's their form.

Looks like the same plumber came to Maryland. Click to Enlarge 39.72 KB

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Thinking of using it to get my agreements signed ahead of time, interested if anyone has tried them.

Maryland is at this point - "law requires that any company or firm that provides mold remediation services on residential property in Maryland to obtain a license to provide mold remediation services. In addition the law requires that each employee who provides mold remediation services must be certified by an accreditation body as a microbial remediation technician or supervisor, whichever is applicable. This license is to be issued by the Maryland Home Improvement Commission (MHIC), an agency within the Department of Labor, Licensing and Regulation (DLLR). The license to provide mold remediation services is different from the MHIC license for a contractor, subcontractor, or salesperson. This law was scheduled to take effect on June 1, 2010. However, due to budget constraints, the DLLR has postponed the implementation of the Maryland Mold Remediation Services Act until July 1, 2013. " So who knows.

In at least one photo, there is some shattered brick on the roof. This indicates moisture in the brick chimney from the bad chimney cap already mentioned. Look around the interior, especially inside that unused fireplace for white stains (efflorescence) which would be evidence of water intrusion from the cap also. Water damage to the sheathing is probably from the flashing but some could be from water getting into the bricks too. Needs a good roofer and a good masonry contractor.

The Best to All, and stay safe!

Does the area on slab have under-slab duct work for your HVAC? If it does, then if there are any holes or cracks in the ducts, then you can have radon entering the ducts directly and the one mitigation system in the basement won't help. Radon mitigation piping should, by EPA standards, extend at least 12 inches above the roof line. Piping itself can run up through the home, attic, and roof or just go outside and up above the roof. As already pointed out, get a post-installation test done by a source other than the contractor. Some contractors will have an independent person come by and test (EPA requires a minimum of 24 hours from the end of the installation and the beginning of the test) so ask if this is included in the proposal pricing. Proper testing is in both the basement and the on slab area.