Charlie R

Buy it.

Good one Erby, thanks for the chuckle.

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

1886 farmhouse with stone foundation wall and wood joists, basement is obviously not a conditioned space. Someone spray-foamed the basement ceiling/underside of the first floor. Joist were original wood from 1886 I think, flooring appeared to be old floor boards where I could get a peek. I advised the client to get an opinion from a licensed insulation contractor because I thought they may have created a condensation issue which could rot the joists. Did I send my client on a wild-goose chase or am I right to be concerned on this one? Thanks (and yes, there was plenty of other stuff to report!)) Click to Enlarge 55.32 KB Click to Enlarge 57.12 KB Click to Enlarge 60.01 KB Click to Enlarge 60.01 KB Click to Enlarge 45.25 KB

I just got a new Surveymaster (Protimeter BLD5364 SURVEYMASTER Basic Kit) it does both - it has the surface "bulge" and then it has pins. So far I really like it. Got it from HIessentials.

I know this is drifting, but which moisture meter do people use? I'm thinking of getting a new one, would appreciate any input.

As everyone is saying, find the source of the moisture and get that stopped first, then clean up the mold. Here is a link that I find helpful on why just testing for mold doesn't really do you any good - http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/i ... dtest.html

I use a Mac for my home computer, but I'm looking for a touch screen with at least one USB port to do inspections. I would go with the IPad, but it doesn't have any ports so if you are in a dead zone with no Internet access, you can't transfer any info. MacBook Air has ports but doesn't have touch screen. Only products running Windows have both touch screen and ports. Looks like I'll stick with what I have for now. Thanks, as always, for all the input.

It has been a couple of months since the original post - is anyone using a Surface for inspections? I looked at them in the store and am tempted. I would get the Surface Pro, 128 GB. Any feedback? Thanks.

Looks like the same plumber came to Maryland. Click to Enlarge 39.72 KB

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Thinking of using it to get my agreements signed ahead of time, interested if anyone has tried them.

Maryland is at this point - "law requires that any company or firm that provides mold remediation services on residential property in Maryland to obtain a license to provide mold remediation services. In addition the law requires that each employee who provides mold remediation services must be certified by an accreditation body as a microbial remediation technician or supervisor, whichever is applicable. This license is to be issued by the Maryland Home Improvement Commission (MHIC), an agency within the Department of Labor, Licensing and Regulation (DLLR). The license to provide mold remediation services is different from the MHIC license for a contractor, subcontractor, or salesperson. This law was scheduled to take effect on June 1, 2010. However, due to budget constraints, the DLLR has postponed the implementation of the Maryland Mold Remediation Services Act until July 1, 2013. " So who knows.

In at least one photo, there is some shattered brick on the roof. This indicates moisture in the brick chimney from the bad chimney cap already mentioned. Look around the interior, especially inside that unused fireplace for white stains (efflorescence) which would be evidence of water intrusion from the cap also. Water damage to the sheathing is probably from the flashing but some could be from water getting into the bricks too. Needs a good roofer and a good masonry contractor.

Does the area on slab have under-slab duct work for your HVAC? If it does, then if there are any holes or cracks in the ducts, then you can have radon entering the ducts directly and the one mitigation system in the basement won't help. Radon mitigation piping should, by EPA standards, extend at least 12 inches above the roof line. Piping itself can run up through the home, attic, and roof or just go outside and up above the roof. As already pointed out, get a post-installation test done by a source other than the contractor. Some contractors will have an independent person come by and test (EPA requires a minimum of 24 hours from the end of the installation and the beginning of the test) so ask if this is included in the proposal pricing. Proper testing is in both the basement and the on slab area.

Had an inspection like that last week- I had inspected the home back in August for another client. I told them I had done that inspection, but full price, full inspection this time also. I found a few things had been repaired, but also there were a few new items to be repaired.

Kurt - is there some reason the issue is now "hot" there?

From the vent hood the single wall came up about 14", turned almost a 90, went about 4' with a good rise to the connection in the photo, you can see the 90 where the larger B vent goes up to the ceiling, through the attic and extending above the roof was probably 4 to 5 '. Total rise is about 7-8', total run about 8', with the two 90s. I've tried to do the calculations and I can never seem to get it right. The run and lateral are very close to being the same so that's an issue too, I believe. I look at NFPA 54.13.1(a) chart and come up with a 4" maximum. What do you guys come up with?

The furnace was changed out and no longer is connected to the large B-vent. The 36,000 BTU water heater with a 3" vent draft hood vent connector is attached (single wall) to the old B vent. I say the B vent is now too large, that the 3 " connection need to go up through the B vent to the end above the roof. If I'm right, can someone help me with some code quotes, but if I'm wrong please slap me soundly. Thanks. Click to Enlarge 19.38?KB

Thanks Douglas, appreciate the feedback. If we can counter CPSC's statement with a UL rating then that is certainly worth something. I had another home yesterday with aluminum wiring and you guys would have been proud - I only took some covers off, I didn't pull the receptacles out. See, I can learn!

Thanks, nice. Appreciate the posting.

Jim- This is what is in the CPSC PDF that anyone can download - AluminumWiringFixes.pdf - "However, CO/ALR wiring devices have failed in laboratory tests when connected to aluminum wire typical of that installed in existing homes. The test conditions simulated actual use conditions; no ?overstress? type of testing was used. Further, CO/ALR connectors are not available for all parts of the wiring system (e.g., for the permanently wired appliances and ceiling mounted light fixtures). In the opinion of CPSC staff, CO/ALR devices must be considered, at best, an incomplete repair. Recommendations on Temporary Repairs AL/CU twist-on connector pigtails or CO/ALR devices may be used as an emergency, temporary repair for a failed aluminum termination." Honestly, I don't know if the receptacles and switches will fail or not, and I agree that this is the stuff produced by government. I'm not a barrister, but my point is - from a liability stand point, are we smart for telling people that using CO/ALR rated components is OK when the government is saying it's not?

Makes sense to not loop the wire over itself. As to using the CO/ALR rated receptacles, I ran across this statement - what is everyone's thoughts? "Also some incorrectly believe that repairing older pre-1970s aluminum can be done by replacing electrical devices (switches, outlets, etc.) with ones that are rated for use with aluminum wire (CO/ALR rated devices). The problem is that these modern devices are tested and listed using modern AA-8000 series alumimum wire, which is very different than older pre-1970s aluminum wire which expands and contracts much more, and is more susceptible to creep. So the CPSC considers using CO/ALR devices for older aluminum wiring only an emergency repair." Wikipedia

GEC was connected to the copper cold water line. Thanks guys, appreciate the help.

And another question to everyone is - do you pull receptacles out to look with aluminum, or with anything actually, or just remove the cover and try to peek around? Just curious now what everyone else does.