Charlie R

That does tie the two tanks together and the cut-off allows you to stop that flow. Certainly unorthodox way of doing this.

Love Sedona, we were there a few years ago, may retire there or nearby someday. Drove up Oak Creek Canyon to Flagstaff, I remember seeing two different black bears run across the road in front of us. And everyone needs to see the Grand Canyon - great memory of sitting on the rim with my legs dangling over, drinking coffee and watching the sun come up on my right and a full moon setting on my left. One of the few places you can see wild condors.

I have to agree with Marc, if that were true here in Maryland, I would never do a pre-sell inspection. When I do a pre-sell, which is not often, I do use the State's SOP, just makes sense, and I charge the same, the inspection is the same work.

Nothing wrong there, but using a downspout is regarded by many radon mitigators to be "cheap."

Plenty of vinyl sided homes here with no vapor barrier, you pull the vinyl out at the end of a piece and all you see is OSB. Jamb the camera in and take a picture. Click to Enlarge 27.8 KB

Understood, I thought the sample report was a part of the web page since the link was present in the page.

The op wrote that he called out "the rubber Fernco fitting (on the elbow)" and I was pointing out that the Fernco is not rubber, it is a flexible PVC ( elastomeric polyvinylchloride), bears the UPC stamp of approval - it is on the label, and is allowed by the aforementioned table of materials and subsequent paragraphs. The plumber in this case is correct in the choice of materials. The workmanship is the issue, not the material.

A couple of quick points; I would not "recommend" that your client read the whole report. I would state "It is the responsibility of the Client to read the entire report." Next, put the Summary first, then the full report. Make sure you show that the Summary is ended, write something like "This is the end of the Summary, the full inspection report follows". This is a great place to place the first statement I suggested also. Third, too wordy. Example - "bedroom windows do not meet the current national standards for emergency egress " that's all that you need, not all the explanation of what the current standard is, if anything, put a link to a webpage for their info. Remember, let your pictures talk for you - why state it is a one story home when I can see that. Overall, good.

Fernco fittings are UPC approved and marked as such for use on drainage systems, are not made of rubber but elastomeric polyvinylchloride, and meet the ASTM standard C564 (https://www.fernco.com/sites/default/fi ... mittal.pdf) as called for in the 2012 IRC section P3003.6.3. However, make sure to look for the UPC code on the label, there are some imitations showing up that are not approved. The workmanship of the installation is another question though.

You may be able to drive solid blocking between the rafters to straighten them out, doesn't always work, but sometimes you get lucky. The blocking would then keep them from rotating if you can get the blocking in place.

Is that a GEC coming off the bottom of the grounding bar that is attached to the backside of the panel? I believe I see a thicker copper line at that location.

Your home and mine sound similar, I paid just over 8K two years ago for pretty much the same new roof. My roofer wanted $100 per sheet to replace any damaged 1/2 plywood, I bought 20 sheets in advance and had the sheets here, paid him $20 per sheet for the labor to remove and install, used 18 of the sheets. Bought the crew pizza for lunch, stayed up on the roof with them, no problems.

"Just remember you must include them at present on the inspection report." That is a good idea but why do you say "must" include? Is this something that is required by your inspection standards? And no, I do not charge for any ride alongs, but I don't take anyone, only people that i think are serious about getting into the profession.

Call around to all the other home inspectors, go to organization meetings if possible, you are looking for a successful inspector who is thinking of getting out of the business in a year or so. Ask him if you can ride along and sit on his shoulder during a few inspections, meet people, but do all this with the idea that you will pay him for his company name, phone number, and website when he does retire. If you are lucky, you will meet up with someone who will agree to that and also send you their overflow and that can get you started. Your reputation for doing a good job will get you more work than anything else, so ask people to rate you on whatever website they can rate you on - Angies List, Yadzooks, Yelp, Google pages, etc. Good luck, it is tough to get started.

Look at using a foil covering product such as "Tempshield BB-STD107 Double Bubble Foil Reflective Insulation" over the unfaced insulation.

I believe you may be getting water behind the siding at some point further up on the wall, possibly even at the roof line, and the stain is where the water is exiting to the outside of the siding. If you can get in the attic, look for any signs of a roof leak at that gable end, possibly water streaks down the inside of the gable wall, etc. Water may be getting in at the side of the top or side of the window and spreading out as it runs down the wall. At the bottom edge of the last piece of siding under that stain is there any additional staining on the foundation wall? I assume you have looked for any water damage on the interior wall, especially over the window.

All of the surge protectors I have seen are to be installed on a separate double pole breaker by the manufacture's installation instructions. I am not saying that all are like that, just all that I have seen.

I have been using a Samsung for years, and am thinking of getting something newer. What is it you really like about the Google phone? TIA

I liked it, good job, no problem understanding you at all. Serious look is good on you.

I have had the Surface 4 w/4 for about a year, no issues at all, runs everything fine, no battery issues, lasts about 5 hours off the charger.

On the same pace as last year, no slow down yet.

I carry both E&O and GL, 1 mil is what contractors ask for to do pre-drywall here.

A photo of my ladder anti-slide for decks. It doubles for testing garage door anti-entrapment. Only time I fell was getting down and the ladder feet slipped back on the deck, dropped me one story to the deck and cracked a vertebra in my back. Not fun. Click to Enlarge 37.17 KB

Could you stick your digital camera down in the duct to get any pictures? I did one once like that because of cooler air flow and found standing water in the duct. Recommended they get someone in with a sewer line camera to look and sure enough, the ducts were broken open. Also, that is a great way fro radon to get in a slab home.

There should be a water supply line to the heat coil and a water return line. Usually, both of those lines have cut-off valves to stop the water flow to the heat coil. Make sure both are turned off, that way no heated water is going anywhere but to domestic use. Obviously, when you want heat, you need to turn them back on. There is a small pump on the fan coil unit and the unit may be circulating heated water even when the A/C coil is being used, and the two systems can be fighting each other.