Charlie R

Thanks! Good work, appreciate you sharing. Charlie

Hey Marc; Thanks! That church bulletin brought me my first smile of the day!

I certainly do try to use the lawn when possible. I was thinking of getting a small pair of golf shoes with the turf spikes to set the ladder feet in, or possible just using the 2 x 4 I test garage doors with and a couple of long deck screws screwed down to the deck as a blocker when I can't

Yes, call it. Lack of structural support and lack of proper flashings. Along with the shaky stairs, it's a "Hire a licensed deck contractor to inspect and repair if possible, but complete replacement will probably be needed/recommended. There may be additional water damage under the siding that cannot be seen until the deck is removed."

I use the extend-and-climb 12.5 for almost all attic access, some roof access, had that for 4 years, wore the rubber feet out, but no other problems. Carry a Werner MT-26 (26' extended) multi-position ladder for the 2-story roofs, same as the Little Giant but cheaper price, used the LG wheel kit to give it wheels. Also carry the LG M-17 because it's lighter when I don't need to go over about 14' or if I need to take it in a home. Just use a 3-step stepstool for short stuff in the home. Carry these in the back of a 2005 Ford Explorer with the one rear seat down. Only problem I've had is I found out the hard way that when composite material decks are wet, the rubber ladder feet will slide on ya. I've had it happen with both the LG and the Extend-and climb.

Glad to see some press on the issue, hope more articles get printed.

It's a buyers market and the people buying are looking for the best deal, they are the hagglers of the world. So when they call, most will try to get the price down just because that is what the current group does, they haggle over everything. I have found that it just isn't worth it to me so I quote them high, then quickly discount the price to what I would normally charge or offer a discounted radon test. After that I just say, "remember, you get what you pay for, have a good day" and don't worry about them. I've been averaging 4-5 inspections a week which is way low, pays the bills but the good news is I won't be paying taxes on any profit this year! I really feel sorry for the people who try to get into this business now, I don't see how a new person could make it. Look at it this way though, those who make it through this slump will be the ones getting the calls when the market does rise (hopefully in this decade!) Good luck to all- Charlie

There is some radon everywhere.

My first few years I didn't offer testing but got tired of losing inspections to the competition that could offer a inspection and a radon test. Then I tried coordinating with a radon test company here (Maryland) but they screwed up a couple of times and it just wasn't worth the grief I got from the clients. Took the on-line course for Radon Measurement, got a NEHA certification, bought a couple of the Sun Nuclear 1028 CRMs, now if people ask for it I say OK, for a price. The units paid for themselves, the course, and the certification within 2 months, now it's mostly all profit. I just use the software that Sun gives you to print out a report. Here in Maryland we have many counties that are above average in radon, there is usually a newspaper article about it 2-3 times a year, so about 50% of my clients ask for a test. I do believe long term testing is a better idea (90 days or more) but when you only have 10 days to settle, what's a client to do but get the short term test. Any radon level can cause lung damage but that's the same as saying any cigarette smoke can cause lung damage. But do you just walk by smokers occasionally and get a whiff, or do you smoke a pack a day. Big difference. Click to Enlarge 37.05 KB

Nothing but the energy concerns as far as I know.

Yep, gotta have slope. Which way was that slope supposed to be? Oh yeah, I know, downhill cause it's a water heater and water runs downhill! And that draft hoodie thing, which way did that go? Must be legs up. (I know, WRONG!) Click to Enlarge 35.53 KB

Excellent explanations, Thanks!

Great photo, made my day, Thanks!

Good call.

If I do report this kind of accessory, it's in "Interiors" as a FYI.

Thanks for sharing the photos, good catch.

Typically, if it's a counter top model, i plug in a sentence that "counter top microwaves are not inspected." If built -in, shake/pull it, test light/fan, proper clearance from stove top, put in a half full of water plastic bottle I carry in the toolbag for 1 minute, hand to client while warm. Turn on the stove top (always test microwave above first, keeps from burning the belly!) and oven, turn off when they are hot or gas has lit, look at oven hook-up, is there an anti-tip device, run dishwasher on rinse cycle (only takes a few minutes), make sure it's attached to counter or side cabinets, take access panel off bottom of dw, look at electrical connection (many have no connector or grommet) and leaks, look for air-gap (or at least hi-mounted drain line) and watch for water spurting out the air-gap when it drains, (how many people install the disposer without removing the plug!) take ice cubes from freezer of refrigerator and dump into disposer - grind ice. Look at electrical connection to disposer and for leaks. Open each cabinet door with a slight downward pressure, pull all drawers the same, note anything that looks old or worn with a "appears to be old/worn - budget to replace - - " Is this more than what is required - sure is, but is it good customer service and what people expect? I say yes, but each inspector has to decide for themselves. Yea, it takes a little longer, but most of my business comes from referrals by clients so I have to think the clients like my inspections. And I also run the washer and dryer. If the owner is at home, I always ask if they need to do laundry or run the dishwasher because I going to, so it would save a little energy and water if they want to do it while I'm there. But I don't vacuum, even with a whole house system. []

Hi John; Found this in a 1994 town home in Lutherville-Timonium area (up near Mays Chapel), looks the same as what you had - the gray connector is PB, I told them I was pretty sure the black pipe was too based on what I could read. Told them to have a plumber inspect and confirm. Click to Enlarge 56.34 KB

Yea, thanks for the link, good one. Charlie

Thanks, appreciate the heads up on the plastic.

Thanks for the heads up, more and more of them being installed. Do they all require stainless steel?

Absolutely nothing wrong with oversized wiring on a breaker, using 12 awg on a 15 amp breaker is perfectly fine, using 10 awg on a 20 amp is fine, etc. Undersized wire, now that's usually bad, except as has been noted about the A/C units (and heat pumps). And, I think it's not appropriate to just change out the breaker to a lesser rated breaker because you don't know what damage has been done out on the circuit, but I leave that up to the licensed electrician.

Amen! There are many good inspectors, but only a few who are also good communicators. And you are so correct in the way you stated how experience makes each of us better. Thanks for starting this thread, Charlie

Lots of good free advice here. I second the thought that you need to concentrate on the inspection itself, not completing a form. I suggest you do your own or a friend's home first and come up with a method, or order, to your inspection. Create your own note form - I use a four page document that follows the order I like to follow during an inspection - with blank lines for the problems, but a list of thgings you can cross off as you have looked at them. I make sure to take a digital photo of everything I'm going to mention in the final report, even if it's just a photo of an area. By going through the photos I still occasionally catch something I had forgotten to note in writing. Get some software and try it, many give you a free download. I have used different software, right now using HomeGuage, but I have really customized the standard comments in it to suit myself. During the inspection, you can give your client a clip board with paper and tell them to take notes too, and at the end of the inspection, per John's suggestion, go over what you saw and their notes. Then you can produce a quality report, use plenty of the photos, and e-mail, or print and deliver. And always remember, free advice is worth what you pay for it Good luck, stay safe.

Busy as I could be up through May 8, then it really dropped off here in Maryland. Still getting a few, hope it picks up later in the month. Interestingly, the few I'm getting are the bigger homes.